How about you used like a washer bottle and filled it with premix and had your OMP inject the premix?

You could tell for sure if it was working or not because you could visibaly see it go down, also it would inject the right amount.

 

Man, now you are getting complicated. Just use 1oz for every gallon of fuel you use when you fill up. The whole reason for running premix is because the OMP only injects oil in one area, premix is atomized by the injectors, so it coats the entire rotor better. Using premix in the tank is really the best, and olny safe way to go.

 

yeah it has been done and there is a kit for it but it isnt all that reliable, and it has a few probs. it is easier to use two stroke in your tank

 

why dont you just go to a marine shop and have them make a custom kit for your car like they do on boats to mix the gas and oil on the bigger boats?....... damn complicated *** people

 

Still, the OMP is not the best way to inject oil. It ONLY injects oil in one spot, it does not spray the entire rotor housing, and there fore does not do the best job. Nothing will beat having premix injected throught eh fuel injectors. You are wasting your time trying to modify the OMP...

 

Ummm.. Fuel is NOT sprayed in the entire rotor housing either...

in fact, you'd get more "coverage" with the oil injectors still in place...

If you're running the stock system, oil is being injected by 4 oil injectors, right next to the fuel injectors..

Now switch to premix.. you're getting oil in with the fuel spray, in the same location as the oil injectors, but only out of 2 fuel injectors at any rpm below 3800 rpm..

 

Chris Ng, your theory does sound very logical, however, many people on the forum, from what i hear, have taken engines apart running premix and engines running stock OMP and have comented that premix engines were way cleaner. On OMP running engines, they noted they could see the little trail of oil where the omp drizzled the oil down the center of the housing. Anyone care to back this? ReTed? have a nice day everyone

 

Two of the oil injectors do fire into the inlet manifold runners, just like they would via the fuel injectors. The other two inject directly into the chamber and onto the apex seals.

Mazda used to inject oil directly into the carb float bowls (same effect as premix), but must have decided a mix of port injection and direct injection is better. They continue to do this, so I'm not so quick to dismiss the OMP system as inferior to premix.

 

Roy, I'm not against the use of premix at all.. My OMP is actually blocked off and I'm running premix at this time..

There is no debating how much cleaner 2 stroke oil burns in comparison to conventional motor oils.. premix burns cleaner, and actually helps in preventing knock..

However I just wanted to clear up the fact that running premix does not mean it's gong to be distributed any better throughout your rotor housing as the stock oil system does..

I would suspect the "trail" of oil that is noticed is from the oil injectors dripping after the motor has been turned off.. there is enough heat to "coke" the oil to the housings leaving a trail, but not enough heat to actually burn it off..

 

good point on that Chris, i didnt think about the trail being from after the car is off, hhmm.. I think if we had better oil nozzles, maybe oil injectors designed with an electronic solenoid or something, OMP systems would be alot better and alot more reliable. After i sell the GTU and get a TII, im going to be running premix to keep things simple and it seems to work just fine, regardless if its better or worse that OMP.

 

It's going to be interesting to see what internal lubrication system the RX-8 has!

 

Definitely can't wait to see what Mazda will do with the OMP on the RX-8. I hope that they run a returnless fuel injector system so that actually adding oil to the fuel line would be feasible and you wouldn't have to worry about excessive oil consumption.
Note: the RX8 must be dumbed down for the US market because most people don't know how to pop their hoods. And, we are expecting them to top off the oil, or premix, or fill a separate reservoir.......

And when you don't see the oil level going down, it is already too late.
This would connect to your washer bottle:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

I agree that the OMP is the worst way to inject oil. You never really know if it is working. You can only hope that all 4 lines are working. How many engines died because of OMP failure??
Also, I am wondering how many oil injectors are in the RENESIS. My '91 has 4. I not sure(haven't owned one yet) about the 93-95, but I think that they only had 2. Will the RX-8 have any??

 

Three cheers for NG. Two in the inlet runners, and one in each rotor housing. BFS to the dribble nonsense. Last time I looked there is a vacuum being pulled by the rotor on its intake stroke. That vacuum sucks at the injector hole while the injector is injecting. The way I see it that oil is not dribbling. Its being atomized. The oil does not dribble in and slide down the housing. Shinny spot in the area of the oil injector nozzle hole??/ Ever notice that that shiny area is also in line with the spark plug holes?????? High spot??? Maybe on someone elses housings but I've got a old engine apart in the shed. I put a straight edge (GILLETTE) across the shiny area. There is no high or low spot in that area. It is shiney about the width of my small finger nail and goes more or less around the circumference of the housing. There are some other shiny spots in the *hump* area of rotation. Dribble, hurummmph! Or I could be wrong. Look for yourself.

 

I hope I do this right, I'm a programmer and have never done this before.
I have a 1990 and $1300 is too much for the OMP (MOP)
can I leave it in place, but an inline 20 ohm resister in to fake the brain and use premix. Love the cars because of the reliability, bought an 80 new, electronic failure at 170K, know what's wrong, need to fix it. THis Metering Oil Pump thing caught me by surpise when I have less money than usual. I'm driving the turbo now. THe 90's extra ports won't kick in anyway.

 

1OF3RUNNING...... Whats the deal with the 80 model you barely mentioned. Electronics failure??? You say? Curious.

 

I wanted a cruise control, tried 3, I need to hook the yellow or blue wire back to the stock harness, it would pop start but no spark in start position. By the time I realized this I had pretty much mangled the electrical components. I like the Turbo, look down and you're doing 115mph. The 90 has never worked right, no extra ports, starves for fuel over 5500 rpm, but I drive cars until failure then I leave them for the state. These keep making it home. I drove the 90 100 miles in crawl mode, thought it was a clogged fuel filter, hope I didn't do too much damage.

 

could you leave the omp on and still use pre mix ?? r would this **** some thing up? just wanna be on the safe side

 

Wow, at least one person knows that the OMP is actually a MOP

I am running premix(~100:1) with the electronic MOP still in place. But, I think that the oil injector lines are clogged. They used to change color after an oil change. Now they stay dark always.

Used MOPs aren't that hard to find. I know because cheapo me underbid on two on ebay in the last couple of months.

Someone out there figured out how to make the electronic MOP "freewheel" so that it wasn't injecting oil. This kept the computer happy. Now if I can only find the thread.

 

1of3running...........You did not harm a thing driving it like you did. I only have 86 and 87 series two ( gotta 82 also), so I know zero about the electrical oil metering pump. I also do not have a download of the 90 manual or schematics, so you can see there is no point in me even writing this.But, if I had a 90, and my aux ports did not work, I'd make sure my air pump works (they never fail), then I'd find the solenoid that feeds air from the air pump to the aux actuators, and with a meter I'd make sure that the solenoid has a input ground signal from the ECU when driving the car and the car is under *load* conditions. If that was happening and I did not think the things were opening, I'd bypass the solenoid and jumper the the two air hose that are attached to the solenoid, and with the engine running, see if they move when the hose are jumpered together like that. Or if you want, leave the hose in place and jumper 12v and a ground to the solenoid to open it and then see if the actuators move. If they did not, I'd take them off and see if the actuator rod is frozen. If so, I'd pull and push on the rod on the actuator till it freed up. And then........... any way I'd do the same with the VDI if I did not think it was working. Here's a jpg outta HAYNES

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=41188

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mazdaspeed7
Shamrock, the recommended ratio for premix without an OMP is 1 oz per gallon. So if you put 4 gallons in, use 4 oz of oil. With the OMP still functional, you would want to half that, or 1 oz oil per 2 gallons of gas.

A word of warning. S5 engines with the electric OMP CANNOT just block the lines, unplug or anything else. There is a very specific way you must disable it. I spent a month figuring this out, and had one OMP lock up on me.

First, remove the drive gear from the eccentric shaft and/or all the internals from the OMP itself. Either one will accomplish the same goal, but the OMP casing MUST be left inplace AND plugged in. If not, your engine will go into "limp-home" mode every 7 min without fail. Believe me, I spent a month trying to fix this. The stepping motor MUST be functional, the actuator it pushes must move freely, and the sensor must be calibrated correctly(it comes calibrated, so as long as you dont mess with the shims, you will be fine). Both Plugs must stay plugged into the harness. Then you can block the lines off at the OMP with bolts. The thread size/pitch is listed earlier in this thread. You cannot just block the lines, or the OMP will lock up(ask me how I know). Once the pump itself is disabled by gutting it or removing the gear on the eccentric shaft, then you can block off the lines without worrying.

All of the mechanical OMP's, S4 included can just be removed/blocked off/whatever. Its only the electric ones on the S5 that are a real PITA. [/QUOTE

 

I've got 2 of these going somehow.
THe manual just shows the 16 to 31 ohm at least that's all the mechanics computer found wrong with mine and the ECU is still working so I guess I should feel lucky. Do I really have to simulate, are the brains looking for inductence type things or just resistance??
I don't think free wheeling will work for me. I have no resistance which seems to be tripping the ECU alot faster than 7 minutes, more like 70 seconds.
THanks for the input on the 100 mile drive, I hope your right because I'm going to get this thing working and since the salvage guy I know doesn't want my 80 ( went dear hunting with it once) I'll have to get it running too. The wife wants it out of the garage. And if I can get the ports to work on the 90 it should run like the turbo. The stuff on the ports was a little beyond me right now. I save this page so I'll study it and figure out what it is you're trying to tell me. I figure out almost anything, just can't work a feeler gauage (limited mechanical ability).

There are some really knowledgeble fanatics out there. Like the commercial "and if you lucky you get to work on cars".
You all spell better than me and probably don't have to send your message twice to get it to post.

I'll keep monitoring but I have to go study for Oracle certification so I can get an RX-8.
Thanks for your help.