Racedog

iTrader: (1)

Had my fuel injectors and rails cleaned. I also replaced the fuel filter. After installation, I'm having trouble starting. I checked for fuel leaks during installation as stated in the manual. I checked several times to make sure all of the vaccum lines are properly connected. It wants to turn over, but won't idle. It did start twice, but only ran roughly for a few seconds.

Couple questions -

The screw on the fuel damper on the primary (lower) rail was loose. I just tightened prior to installation. Could that effect anything?

Could I have installed the wiring on the lower injectors backwards? If so, would that cause this problem?

What I think -

While the UIM was off, I degreased and cleaned the area. I plugged off all bores but it is possible some water may have passed the plugs. If water entered the primary injector bores, would that cause this problem? I put some water remover in the fuel tank, but think that would have little effect on water that may already be past the injectors. When cranking, I remove the EGI fuse crank - reinstall and crank. It really wants to fire that way.

Any suggestions?

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Do you have the lower injector grommets on the injectors?

Racedog

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they were replaced new when the injectors were cleaned.

stacher

I would say....check the conectors to your primary injectors. I sound like you are not getting enough fuel. Perhaps one of them is not connected properly or became unpluged.

You can also try starting fluid.

Racedog

iTrader: (1)

The primary injectors seemed to be well installed. Electrical connectors snapped in snug. I looked under the UIM and all looks secure.

Any recomendations on a starter fluid?

Racedog

iTrader: (1)

Anymore suggestions?

Racedog

iTrader: (1)

OK, more information:

Fuel is definately entering the combustion chamber. I smell fuel but no external leaks spotted. Tried the EGI fuse removal crank - reinstall thinking it may be flooded. Still no start. Pulled all four spark plugs - all wet and a small amount of fluid came out of each port. With the EGI fuse pulled and the plugs out, I cranked the engine a few times then checked the plug bores again. A bit more fluid. The fluid has a a faint fuel smell but appears like oil with water contamination. Was thinking about leaving the plugs out for awhile so if water is inside it could evaporate. Any other thoughts?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

did you plug in your AFM ?..and you could deflood a little better(cleaned plugs?) ..like 30 seconds without plugs and EGI in..toss a half a milkshake straw full of oil into the lower plug holes and turn the engine over 3 seconds ..put the plugs and EGI back in and turn the Key(start it)....if everything is normal she should want to start..(could also be a vacuum leak ..you sure you installed the Mani's right?)

Racedog

iTrader: (1)

The AFM was never disconnected except for the main intake to the throttle body. All looks secure. I did clean the plugs but haven't reinstalled. I cranked for about 10 seconds with the plugs out. I will try cranking for about 30 tomorrow, and oil-crank-install as you suggest.

I assume by mani's you are taliking about the vaccum lines on the UIM? I am almost positive I have them installed correctly. I took alot of time noting their configuration during the removal, but it's difficult to be 100%. The FSM doesn't show a great picture of the lines. Anyone have a good sketch?

Racedog

iTrader: (1)

Followed the instructions as posted by misterstyx69.

It did run for about 3 seconds, stalled, and then same problem. Repeated - same result.

There is plenty of fuel. Makes me wonder if too much. The injectors are all same part number and color. Shouldn't matter position, right? Also, I replaced the spider. I can blow into the vac hose to the spider and hear air, is that normal?

More hints?

SuperRotorMan

lol

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Hmm... Find the leak?

Also, if your motor is flooded, when you crank the starter you will see (and smell) noticable gasoline vapors exiting out of the (lower) spark-plug holes.

Crank for about 10-15 seconds, wait another 10-15 seconds and crank again. Repeat until you can no longer see or smell gas.

But yeah, you should first do a thorough visual inspection of your work, until you're confident you put it back exactly as you found it. Next, unflood the motor.

If you get it started, hold the revs at around 1500 RPM's for about 20 seconds (or more) to let all of the fuel clear-out.

Tentatively let the revs drop and see if it can hold an idle. If it can't idle, there's probably a vac. leak somewhere. To find it, adjust the TB idle-adjust screw so that the car can idle (after you unflood it again). Even if it will only idle at 1500 RPM's+, it's no big deal. Next, spray carb-cleaner around different vac. lines and just around the UIM/TB etc. to see if you can find a leak. If you do find a leak, the idle will rise and smooth out momentarily as (the leak) sucks in the extra 'fuel'. Eventually you will pinpoint the area where the leak is coming from and be able to fix it accordingly.

The injector 'diffusers' didn't fall out, or get pulled out with the injectors did they? They are the 'casing' that the injectors slide down into (on the irons). They are brownish in color (plastic) and look like sewing thimbles (kinda). I dunno, that's kind of a stretch, but it's a thought.

Good luck,

Racedog

iTrader: (1)

I did not remove the diffusers under the primary injectors, just cleaned. I did remove and replace (w/ seals) the diffusers on the secondary injectors. I unflooded and flooded so many times I'm wearing the EGI fuse and lower plugs out.

I'm convinced I have a vac leak somewhere and could use the carb-cleaner trick but can't keep it running for more than three secs. I'm thinking about pulling the UIM off and rechecking everything. Besides, after reading several threads I realize I should have replaced my pulsation damper. I don't want a bonfire!! I'll go back and get that.

SuperRotorMan sounds like he's been here before!!