2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 05-09-05, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RETed
My, my...

First of all, how ddi you align the motor?
Did you "center" it or did you mount it like how an FC 13B would normally sit (i.e. off-center - suprising, huh).
This brings up the question of possibly premature failure of the u-joints due to (pengaroo mentioned) angle-of-attack...

Second, the stock twin turbos of junk.
I dunno if you did your research, but FD guys are throwing them away like they were going out of style.
Single turbo upgrades are the trend.

Personally, I think $3,900 is way too much for what you get.
13B-REW motors are coming down in price - J-spec long blocks are around $1,500 if you show around.
This means you're still charging around $2,000 for the install and tune.
Someone with some bar iron and a MIG welder can do this in a weekend.
Even with $1,000 invested in the MIG, you're still ahead.
Trying to cater to the FC owners bunch you gotta think cheap.
I don't think you'd get more than half a dozen serious folks that would take you up on your offer...I think you'd be lucky if you get 1 or 2.

Don't take this as a flame.
I'm just trying to help you with my experience doing this kinda thing for way too long...


-Ted
AS far as I see it, 3900 for a complete swap is a great price.. NOW, I want to know where you are getting rew longblocks with tranny, for $1500. You could barely get an re for that price. plus you got to remember that the rew is the newest powertrain and should always come with alot less miles than 13t's.
Old 05-09-05, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTIN
How many owners, have actually put 100k miles on their car??? Usually they have had 2,3,or even 4 owners by that mileage... I beleive that the engine lasting 35 to 50k miles while in your hands is good enough....
So what are you trying to say? It's better to set something up that will only last 30-60k max? And to dump it off onto another motor before it blows? Well that's kinda mean.

Do a setup and motor that will LAST, keep the rotary community with good running engines.
Old 05-09-05, 06:06 PM
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3900 doesnt buyjust a longblock its a half cut witch means tranny ecu wiring intercooler piping everything you need for the swap. plus you can sell the rhd swap to a fd owner so you can make back at least a grand. I also do rhd swaps. 2000 for fc 2200 for fd. pm me for pics.
Old 05-09-05, 06:19 PM
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my FC dynod at 423 rwhp` single TO4S, water to air , street port,3 1/2" full exhaust, it really is very simple, with the FD engine into FC platform, with a MICROTECH EMS. RON
Old 05-09-05, 08:20 PM
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where can i get a microtech system i cant find them.
Old 05-10-05, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTIN
AS far as I see it, 3900 for a complete swap is a great price.. NOW, I want to know where you are getting rew longblocks with tranny, for $1500. You could barely get an re for that price. plus you got to remember that the rew is the newest powertrain and should always come with alot less miles than 13t's.
Why would I want an FD trans?
Maybe the 5th gear if I got the shorter 0.762 5th in my trans...

I did not say it came with trans.
The 13B-REW bolts perfectly fine to an FC turbo transmission.

If you got 13B-REW + FD3S transmission, good luck getting a custom driveshaft, cause the stock FC turbo one isn't supposed to fit.


-Ted
Old 05-10-05, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ronbros3
my FC dynod at 423 rwhp` single TO4S, water to air , street port,3 1/2" full exhaust, it really is very simple, with the FD engine into FC platform, with a MICROTECH EMS. RON
I don't see why a 13BT can't do that.


-Ted
Old 05-10-05, 01:48 PM
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Talking

As for needing a custom driveshaft thats bull **** i bolted mine right up ill post a pic of it later tonight. People should know what there talking about before the rag on someones ****.
Old 05-10-05, 01:58 PM
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and even if i do need a driveshaft made i got a hook up. Our other shop car is a s14 with a rb26. Skyline power baby.
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Old 05-11-05, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rotary1990twin
As for needing a custom driveshaft thats bull **** i bolted mine right up ill post a pic of it later tonight. People should know what there talking about before the rag on someones ****.
Yeah, the bell housing is about 1" to 1.5" shorter on the FD.
Sure, the front side of the driveshaft is on a sliding spline.
I wouldn't trust your car with the driveshaft pulled out about 1" than normal.

People should know their **** before talking about **** they don't know.


-Ted
Old 05-11-05, 03:05 PM
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well as i said before on about page 4 i moved the motor 2 inches lower and 2inches further back to the firewall. read up before you go postal.
Old 05-11-05, 04:00 PM
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any more pics of ther fabrications
Old 05-11-05, 04:30 PM
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I'm not an expert on much of anything especially not stock twins, but I'm fairly sure NZConvertible incorrect about needing the stock ECU to control the stock twins sequentially. I've ridden/driven at least 2 FDs with PowerFCs with the stock twins still setup sequentially.

Otherwise, your setup is interesting. Regardless of whether it makes more power, you'll be doing something unique. By the time I'm done with my supercharger project, I will probably have invested more into it than a custom turbo setup and will be making less power. Oh well, at least I'll be unique.
Old 05-11-05, 06:07 PM
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more pics will be up tomorro night
Old 05-12-05, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by pianoprodigy
I'm not an expert on much of anything especially not stock twins, but I'm fairly sure NZConvertible incorrect about needing the stock ECU to control the stock twins sequentially. I've ridden/driven at least 2 FDs with PowerFCs with the stock twins still setup sequentially.
The PFC is basically a programmable version of the stock ECU, specific to the car it's used for. It's quite different to most of the other aftermarket programmable ECU's available from the likes of MicroTech, Haltech, MoTec, Wolf, etc. Those are the ECU's I was referring to, and none of those will control the sequential turbos properly.
Old 05-12-05, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by rotary1990twin
well as i said before on about page 4 i moved the motor 2 inches lower and 2inches further back to the firewall. read up before you go postal.
Hmmm, so you basically changed the weight distribution of the stock set-up?


-Ted
Old 05-12-05, 06:40 PM
  #92  
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some people swear to much! oops I do to when no one agrees with me
Old 05-13-05, 08:28 PM
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14,xxx posts? What other kinds of stuff do you do besides car stuff? That's crazy... you've been on this forum for a while?
Old 05-14-05, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. IfTeR
14,xxx posts? What other kinds of stuff do you do besides car stuff? That's crazy... you've been on this forum for a while?
When I started, I had a job that allowed me to post while I was at work.
Then I got laid off...
I was unemployed for 3 years.
I just picked up a job recently...and another one.
So now I'm working 80 hours weeks.
Unofficially, both jobs allow me to post on here.


-Ted
Old 05-14-05, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by RETed
When I started, I had a job that allowed me to post while I was at work.
Then I got laid off...
I was unemployed for 3 years.
I just picked up a job recently...and another one.
So now I'm working 80 hours weeks.
Unofficially, both jobs allow me to post on here.


-Ted
Want to spare 20 hours?
Old 05-17-05, 09:26 AM
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Any updates? I'm really interested in this. Kinda wondering if that 4k swap was still standing or will still be standing later this year. Looking to get my first 7 in a couple of months and the 13b-rew swap was the first thing i was looking to do.
Old 05-17-05, 12:29 PM
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i'd have to agree with the majority of the people here, although this swap would be unique i just don't think its worth it. Too much hassle and too much money while the FC engine can hit 400rwhp easily as others ( sonirat ) have shown.
Old 05-17-05, 02:51 PM
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Well it's worth it if you like the quick response of the twin seq turbos. I don't really care about makeing 400 rwhp. I care about when i get on the gas that the boost is there quicker.
Old 05-17-05, 02:53 PM
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NICE!

The quality of the work doesn't look great in those initial pics, but I like what you are doing.

The engine mounting cross member shores up a known weak point of the 2nd gen front subframe that many aftermarket manufacturers make a brace for including the officially Mazda endorsed Mazdaspeed. One could even make a bolt on conversion kit by attaching the crossmember under the front suspension arm rear mounting point as the subframe braces do. Could even triangulate it like the AutoX brace for more strength.


Moving the engine down and back by as much as 2" using the FD transmission is GREAT! That alone is reason to do this swap in my eyes. Though I guess the FD trans is a little weaker than the TII trans- probably lighter?

Using everything FD engine related allows for the use of the PowerFC and its huge support network. Something lacking in the FC community!

Sequential turbos offer great response and the FD engine has stronger side and rotor housings, thrust bearings, gears etc and it opens up the FD aftermarket parts that the FC guys are always wishing we had- like equal length tubular exhaust manifolds if you want to upgrade to single.

Only downside w/ a single conversion of 13BREW over 13BT is althought the HP potential is higher due to the big ports, the off boost power is lower as the primary ports are so big. 13BREW really designed w/ the instant boost response of the tiny sequential turbos providing the low rpm torque and this makes most single turbo FDs feel a little weezy off boost compared to a FC.

Though nice ball bearing single turbo kits are available for the FD to fix that...

Ahhh, your conversion makes it possible to spend so much more money on bolt on parts- a mixed blessing
Old 05-18-05, 12:27 AM
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i am almost done its all wired up except for the starter and the fuel pump. And im welding endtanks on my intercooler core, and piping. but other than that is done. ill get some new pics up tomorro night.


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