Chris RX-7

I've separated the cylinder from the fire wall and now I'm trying to remove the hydraulic line from the top of the cylinder... but the damn thing won't budge, I've tried a open ended 10mm wrench but it started to strip so I stopped immediately. Is there a special tool somewhere that can help me or am I just plain retarded...?

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

A flare nut wrench would be the best tool to use. A flare nut wrench grips all sides of the nut instead of just two like an open end wrench. I would also spray some penetrating fluid in there and let it sit.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

That line can be a real bitch, especially if no one has taken it off in years! No special tool req'd, just a 10mm line wrench..... you do have a line wrench? Get some wd40 or some pb blaster and spray it over the nut to help loosen it first. And stop being a *****

Chris RX-7

Nope the only line wrenches I have access to are standard... Looks like I'm off to autozone.

Mo_Jo_Jo

Like the other guys said, you need a line wrench. You really should use a line wrench on any hydraulic fittings to prevent them from being stripped.

You may need to hit it with some PB Blaster, and a little heat.

It probably would have been easier to disconnect that before you pulled the master from the fire wall.

Chris RX-7

^ I thought of that. If can just slide it back into the firewall I don't see the need to bolt it back on however. The reason I yanked it though was that the coil pack was in the way and I thought I could get a better angle if I pulled it out.

freemanrx7

You need to spray it with something. I just pulled mine off a few days back. I used a regualr 10mm wrench and if worked fine. Try putting the slave back and the turn the bolt. Just be sure as to not strip the bolt.

Chris RX-7

The damn thing is frozen on there... I soaked it in PB blaster and used a line wrench... no go, it's striping rather than giving.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

is the slave cylinder bad? why are you trying to remove it? if you are just trying to save the line for a new slave, the lines arent expensive at all to replace either.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Put the damn thing in a vise.Then go at it with a wrench.

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

Chris I've got the same problem.... I bought a new clutch master cyl and when I went to replace it...that nut was STUCK! Tried the above as well. Let us know how you get that sucker off.

Not intending to jack this thread, but mine (s4) makes a kind of rattling sound (new sound) when I am in gear and decelerating. Throw out bearing is what's been suggested.

I figure if I need to pull the tranny, should I go ahead and repalce the slave cyl? AND... if thats the case... couldn't you just get the mazdatrix SS line from the slave to master?

The reason I ask that way is couldn't the OP (and I have no idea what his funds look like, but...) replace both the slave and master and get a new line? Then he (and I) wouldn't have to mess with stripping the nut.

I'm all about preventative maintenance, and I usually hear masters and slaves usually go out together or very close to it. Anyone think it would be a good idea to replace both and get a new line?

freemanrx7

Might as well replace everything at once! Cost isn't so high. Chances are your slave will die soon enough.

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

Good point.

OP, you might want to do the same and save your self some bloody knuckles and a stripped nut.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

the SS line only replaces the stock rubber line, it still connects to the hardline at the bracket on the firewall. I would just ditch both and get a new hardline.

Mo_Jo_Jo

When the nut is stripped, I've used vise grips and heat. However, like the others said, these parts are not very expensive and it would benefit to just buy replacements.

As for your noise, that's odd. Usually a throw out bearing will make a noticeable squealing (metal on metal) when the clutch is depressed. That's when there's a load on it. There's no load on the bearing with the pedal out (accelerating or deccelerating), so I'd definately continue my investigation before pulling the transmission. Your noise could be an internal part (does it happen in every gear, what RPM?).

Chris RX-7

Yeah I just recived the SS line from Mazdatrix, and it's only like 1 1/2 ft long (just replaces the rubber line). I'm gonna go ahead and buy a slave cylinder as well, I just wanted to get the car moving first by replacing the master. As for the hard line, I'll just get a local line shop to fab on for me for a few bucks.

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

...and where are these line shops? Mazdatrix does not seem to have them listed for an FC on their site.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

The SS line is on that page you posted up.

jjwalker

Why take it to a shop? Rent a pipe bender from autozone and bend your own line and save $$$.

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

I've got the ss flex line.... just trying to locate the hardline that runs from the MC to the bracket on the firewall (where it connects with the SS line).

farberio

iTrader: (7)

That you will probably have to make yourself, or buy a prebent one from the dealer. It won't be all that expensive.