RotaryPicha

iTrader: (2)

What's the best and easiest way to get at least 250hp? I got an 88 N/A i'm up for any suggestions. It is a daily driver. It's all stock now. What should go first and what should I get first. Any help getting me in the right direction would be nice.



I'm not going to use it on the track at all. Only street

cezonetheillest

i would say turbo it. or get a t2 block and upgrade the turbo with supporting mods. if you search you will find alot of info on high horse na motors also. i say the easiest way to get to 250whp is with a turbo.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

wont make that kind of numbers being NA.If you want to stay NA you are gonna need some kind of radical porting and ems to reach that goal,there is a na performance section here in the forum that you should look at and welcome to the rx7club buddy

ROTOLICIOUS

and i agree you will spend an *** load of money way more than than you can spend for a t2 swap and its not that hard to do just do your research get all the parts you need and hop to it if you wanna go na more power to you but that means a complete rebuild with a street port if you want it streetable a stand alone comp like microtech lt8 or lt10 or haltech your tranny should be able to handle the power but a upgraded clutch and maybe a better lsd upgraded wires and plugs top of the line exhaust and go over everything with a fine tooth comb plus bigger injectors then go get a nice tune and you should be around 250 anythings possible if you got the money hope it helps

Captain_kirk

F/I is the way to go for those kind of numbers. Good luck on the build

RotaryPicha

iTrader: (2)

I don't mine the idea of putting in a turbo. But all I hear is i got to buy a T2 block. And pretty much change out everything.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

At the wheels? Not gonna be easy nor practical on a 13B NA. You'd need a bridgeport which will guzzle gas, has no chance of passing smog and make a bit of noise. If we say 250bHP = 210wHP then I think it could be done and stay practical, but it'll take a lot of work. You'd need a very large streetport, plus all the standard bolt-ons and tuning, maybe a little more beyond that. Otherwise +1 get a turbo engine.

Ya, you gotta swap in the whole engine. On the plus side, as long as you get a 1986-1988 turbo engine it should drop right in and be plug-n-play. I'd find a reputable local source for an engine or buy a lousy JDM engine and rebuild it. There's a reason why their warrantees won't cover an engine that fails even 2 days after you put it in. After that I'd assume no maintenance has been done to the car unless you know it has, get a maintenance schedule (owner's manual, Haynes manual, etc.), and do everything. Then search the forums for basic mods; 250 shouldn't be too hard on a turbo.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

T2 swap with a small hybrid turbo (BNR stage 1 or 2, or Knightsports hybrid) and supporting mods (fuel pump, 720 secondary injectors). You can do this on the stock turbo if you are lucky but you are really pushing it.

RotaryPicha

iTrader: (2)

I just read something bout a supercharge for the FC, on Supercharged REX what you guys think bout that.

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

No, Stop trying to reinvent the wheel. You are a simple noob with no knoledge. You're not going to have a 250 rwhp car without a turbo or a 3 rotor.

a-cups847

first do the basics, intake, full system exahust, upgrade comp. but if that wont give the power then start making the body lighter. even tho its gonna be a street car you can still lose the interior parts, just depends on how you want it to look. you could go with light sheetmetal door panels and stuff like that. but other than that i say what everyone else says, TII swap out.

breckboarder55

Im going to be the one and say it... you wont want to hear it...

but, You would honestly be better off and save money/time in the long run if you sold your car and bought a TII...

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Get your car all running very well then shoot 100 shot of Nitrous oxide. Cheaper than anything else. Just make sure you can adjust timing and A/F ratios as in an aftermarket ECU. Probably cheaper than anything else.

Ramses666

RotaryPicha

iTrader: (2)

Yo I appreciate all the honesty. And turbo II we were all noobs at some time. Now I want to get moving past that. This is also my first sports car, I wasn't even a die hard rotary fan. But I am now, and I want to show that off now.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

As said the best option is a TII car or TII engine. There are people who turbo the NA, super the NA, nitrous the NA, but the cheapest & easiest way to get that power is to simply go TII. Then you daily drive it, you have the power all the time, simple. This is your daily driver not some zany experiment to see if X can be done. Turbo II was a bit harsh though.

If you get a turbo car, get a buyer's guide from the forum FAQ or google first. If you swap in the engine right (i.e., w/o buying a P.O.S.), breckboarder may be right; it might be cheaper to just buy the whole car... if you get one in good shape. Again, buyer's guide. I mean, if you don't do any hunting around/etc. I'd guess $5k to order an engine, pay someone to rebuild it and pay someone to install it. IIRC a good turbo II car is maybe $6k now; again, less if you hunt around and get a deal w/o compromising quality. You can DIY on the engine rebuild & install, but you may cut corners (and pay extra to redo it later) or take a long time to finish.

ROTOLICIOUS

than if you want to be a rotor head do your research not alot of people on this forum will just hand you an answer clear you r head and think abount what it is you want to do to your car understand its gonna ost money no matter what you do but DO YOUR HOMEWORK if you want an na understand that it will be fun and a good daily driver but your not gonna get the numbers you want unless you go turbo

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

I would say Nitrous would be easiest and cheapest. Definite risk but you do that anyway. I wish I had that going on Friday night.

Some Truck came up beside me revving his motor & $%!@ ! I went to third gear at about 60 mph & dropped it. It truned into a game of chicken with traffic in front of us. I hit 4th gear and threaded a needle between two cars and made a quick left home.

Would've been WAY OVER if I had a shot of NOS to put him away from the start. I'm just a wimpy NA.... I could do about $1000 and run a nice nitrous system and ecu and fuel upgrade.

Much cheaper than a swap or rebuild.... although you could just blow it all apart.

Ramses666

introVert

With an S/C setup and standalone, I am running about 220rwhp.

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Well... how much $$$$ did you spend?

For any Hp amount there are fuel requirements to be met.

No way around that.

Ramses666

RotaryPicha

iTrader: (2)

Yo introvert can you tell me a little more bout that.

How much hp could I get reasonably with an n/a? Going from as is to $1500.00 in upgrades.

introVert

about 2k all told. 1500 for the s/c kit, and another 500 for the standalone (used microtech lt8) gauges, and supporting fuel mods.

RotaryPicha

iTrader: (2)

Anything more than that I might as well trade for or buy a TII for about another 3000.00

Where could I get it from?

I'll try to check out your garage

introVert

The S/C kit was purchased used from another forum member. It is a paxton/nelson setup, and they are pretty rare these days. They are even more difficult to find with the options all there, i.e. trans cooler/pump/filter setup and all adapters/pullies.

Chairleg420

bridge port would guzzle gas and porbly would pass tests. so I'd say going with maybe a street port and put a turbo under the car. any turbo charged car has a problem with heat under the hood and it breaks ****. but if its under the car than its heat on the exhaust. the hotter the exhaust the better to an extent. but introver probly has the best idea.

AmviciousRav

iTrader: (5)

i think a turbo swap would be more cost effective to reach those numbers easy, or spend alot more on your n/a