drft_180sx

I was being stupid last night and I pretty much dropped the clutch at 3500 rpm, but the problem is my foot never came off the clutch fully

A horrible burnt smell was coming from somewhere in the car, im sure its the clutch. The clutch now seems to engage about 10mm later than it used to, it's getting pretty close to the ground.

I guess my question is how soon do you think I will need to change out the clutch?
Should I change out the pressure plate or just the clutch, and i might get the lightened 17lb. steel flywheel off madzatrix, do you think that'll be good for autox?

Peruvianrx7

iTrader: (25)

17 pound flywheels is good anythign lower than 14 pounds in my own humble opinion is bad for street everyday driving , you should be fine since the stock flywheel is about 36 pounds!!! anyways get acheck clutch from ebay ecluthmasters has one for like 140 I think It comes with the clutch teh pressure plate and teh throw out bearing... DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE THE REAR MAIN SEAL!!!!! Also this is a job you can do your self!

drft_180sx

Thanks for the quick response. I was actually looking at the centforce and ACT clutch/pressures plates they come out to about 325 bucks.

The Rear Main seal would have to be from Mazda i'm assuming?.

Peruvianrx7

iTrader: (25)

Bro Act is the way to go if you MOD THE LIVING HELL OF YOUR FC.... to me it will be a waste of money since you will never see 200 whp unless u go force induction.
If I was you I would get the cheapest ACT or centerforce clucth unless u got big plans for your N/A FC... look for my thread on LOST WORLD OF ROTARY and youll find mad MAD websites for OEM mazda stuff the rear main seal should be 30-40 bucks!

Tofuball

You probably don't need to change out the clutch. BUT you can check by seeing how much it slips, if it slips a lot more then usual when you try dropping it, or shifting into a high gear too early, then you might need a new one.

If you dont want to, you dont have to spend the money on getting a new clutch untill the slippage is really bad. Doesnt hurt anything except track times :p

BTW: I love my Act street/strip clutch. Not a lot of legwork, and its smooth for the street, but when I tell it to engage, it does it when and how I say. Unlike the Sachs unit I had in there . . .

Tofuball

PS: I powershifted on the sachs unit all the time because I wanted it to die. smelled like burning all the time and all I did was get some surface heat-checking on the flywheel that I had to lightly sand off. It doesnt hurt the clutch THAT much. If you are engaging the clutch far too close to the floor, you might want to check your hydrolic system pressure or adjust it so it is where it feels comfortable (if you're going to keep that clutch afterall)

drft_180sx

Thanks tofu, imma consider holding off, my rear tire just went dead now I need tires, ****.

I already have a host of problems, imma keep the clutch till it's done.

Thanks

Jahan

Peruvianrx7

iTrader: (25)

hahahaha welcome to the life of the rx7 owners

Tofuball

Want some good cheep tires? Low priced-Kumhos

Thats what I did. They arent the greatest tires in the world, but they preform not unlike the mid-priced yokohamas and dunlops.

TireRack.com

If you're ultra-cheep: Did you know there are places that sell used tires too? Untill recently, I didnt :-p You can get some with tons of tread on them.

sXeVegan

tires.com (discount tires direct) have falken azenis. They are super grippy, awesome looking, low priced tires. Thats what I have on my CRX. MY rx7 still has the crappy generals that came on it when i bought it. (ive only had it for about a month...azenis will come after i wear the tread off these POS tires)