darksider

i know you and you know somone, is that good enought for a hook up?

aight, sorry about all the noob questions and multiple post earlier, i was running late today and i wanted to get all my question posted so that i could come home to answers. thanks for the answer.

ok, now more questions. do i benefit form an aluminum can over the plastic one on a hvlp spray gun?

ohh someone offered me 3g's for my gxl with 74k original. do you think its worth it? do you think i could get more? i could get a turbo with that kind of money (plus the extra G i have stored for an emergency blown engine).

I GOT A SAND BLASTER!!! MUAHAHAHAH

Icemark

The whole car.

If it is only flaking in one spot, and it is the OEM paint, it will eventually spread to the whole car.

Now that does not apply for situations like brake fluid on the fender or some other chemical reaction. My suggestion of the whole car is only for an OEM paint that is failing and having layer separation.

darksider

ok so a 50 pound bad of sand cost about $5 i think $20 worth is enough for the whole exterior. question is should i just blast the rust and sand? or will i make it easier on myself (with primer) stripping everyting to bare metal?

thanks

synesthete

Why are you sandblasting it? I've used this crap called rust-mort or something and you just spray it on there let it soak and dry, then sand it all down. Turns the shop and your facemask red instantly but comes right off with a DA.
If your gonna do it, do it right, over bare metal. I would say thats a must.

Icemark

No, not really. I have alum on my primer basic gun and plastic on my clear coat gun.

That is something you will need to decided.

If you get anything from this thread, you should get that painting the car yourself should be something that you really need to understand how much work you are getting into.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

if ya want to drive it to PA !!!
actually, its a female that paints..i have known her for a very long time...
she got drunk one nite and ran accross the top of my car...i didnt turn it in becuase she said she would paint it...well, she better!!!
plus all the free paint i got...i have had some bad luck and good in this part of my life...lol

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

You will find that sandblasting the outer panels on the car is not such a good idea, especially using sand.

If you have rust around a wheel well, on a rocker, the top of the windshield - hit those areas with the sandblaster....don't blast entire panels...unless you are very experienced (and paitient) with sandblasting, you will warp your panels all to heck...

Blast the rusty areas and chemically remove the rest of the paint with paint stripper.

darksider

hmmm. the guy i bought it off siad he did his whole car... its was an old school muscle car of some sort.

can i just set it to low pressure and turn it up if i need to? this way i can find the lowest pressure needed to strip the paint? if i get a wider tip for the blaster it should just strip and
not hit as had as the finer tips right? i hear blasting hits like hammers.

ohh, when blasting, should the tip be 2-3 inches away from the STEEL (is it steel) panel/body?

thanks

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

cant you use somthing other than sand??

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

you CAN blast a whole car don't get me wrong, especially old muscle cars as the steel used in those days was a much heavier gauge than now (16-18 as opposed to 20)

If you do want to - I wouldn't recommend it at all especially for a first time blaster - you can't "turn the pressure down" to any respectable level since the air pressure is what actually does the blasting. I would say your best bet, but will still more than likely warp these shells to ******* hell, is to blast it from a very very far distance (BTW 2 or 3 inches is VERY VERY close, far far far too close for body metal) and slowly and methodically peel away the paint.

The whole reason that sandblasting is hard on the metal is because of the air pressure required to make it effective. That coupled with the heat involved. Sandblasting creates a lot of friction if you couldn't guess, and the heated metal warps easier than cold.

As far as tip sizes go, having a huge tip will just waste sand and require much much more CFM (BTW, if you plan on actually blasting with a real sandblaster typicaly CFM req'd is about 125) Using an average size small tip in this case would be better for you - it will use less sand and require you to go slower.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Many types of media are used for blasting, everything from corn shucks to glass beads to walnut shells. But when you start to stray too far from typical fine silica sand the equipment, methods, and costs go up.

iceblue

Our door skins are 20-22ga very thin and the fenders 20ga and the rear quorters 18ga you will worp them to hell!

Icemark

I typically do not recommend sand blasting cars for the simple reason that it is next to impossible to get all the blast media back out of the vents, cracks, creases and seams before painting. This leads to crap in the paint.

If you are going down to metal sanding with a stripper wheel and then with a finishing sander is usually fine, and then you can just air gun out all the left over particulate matter.

But that is just me. Maybe some of you others have found a way to get rid of all the grit.

synesthete

Sand blasting is not a good call. It doesnt even save you that much time. The only condition i would use it, is if i was working on a car thats had somehow been dipped in tar or other crud, and an ignorant owner had left it to sit for many years until it had etched in hard. Otherwise its pointless.

Using it on the undercarage is one thing, using it on the body is just dumb in my opinion, on any car. Thats how you prep industrial equipment that is designed for abuse, not our thin little sports cars with a little rust or something. Stripping the surface area of an rx7 doesnt take that long with conventional methods.

darksider

so would you recommend me using chemical to strip the paint? will that take care of the rust too? can you recommend a good chemical/product for rust and paint removal? thanks

iceblue

Rust must be ground to good metal or good metal welded in place of it.

I have in past used rust nutralizers then ground down befor paint. For surface rust that is. Anything with holes I cut out and weld new metal in.

darksider

ground down? you mean sanding right? gagahahaha

remember im a noob to painting

darksider

aight so far i only had time to sand blast the driver side fender and door of rust. basically all the little dented parts.

now my question is whats the best way to pull dents? they are mostly dimple dents. theres one in the main body line of the fender. i know theres different methods for defferernt styles of dents. can someone post a link please. also will i be able to rent these tools from a local shop?

i know i can unbolt the fender and get at from behind (im pretty sure for the door too), but is that the best method? i want to use less bondo as possiblle. thanks

my daym palm isnt workign right now so i cant take pictures. ill try to post asap.

iceblue

I take a steel grinder or a 36grit angle head sand disk with air tools and some times a cutting disk depending on the rust type and location.

Dents have 2 correct methods.

1: A bump hammer and dolly other hammers like shrink hammer and ping hammer will more then lily be needed. Also several types of dolly’s. Take the fender off and work the metal by stretching and shrinking it with the hammers and dolly’s.

2. A stud gun with studs that spot welds studs on and you use a stud puller tool and yes it takes some skill knowing how to line the studs by type of dent indentation and force and pull the dent up then shrink the metal back down as you repeat it will oil can and you will need to ping shrink the metal.

I show you how to do the stud gun method on my blog. VERY $$$ tools. A dolly takes some time to learn and allot of skill goes into metal work. Edges are very hard.

Fenders are hard you normally jut replace them.

The door skins as well are normally replaced.

A hood is the hardest in my opinion.

A good body mans rule of thumb is first in last out and use the least amount of body filler possibly.

darksider

again this is my first time doing body work so please be more descriptive.

my doors and fenders are good, they just have door dimple dents. i understand i should replace the door/fenders if i was hit but thats not the case.

so now that you know what i am out to accomplish, what do i really need. im not looking to spend a fortune just to take out some really small dents.

whats the difference between the hammers? size? whats a dolly? any links on these tools?

please bare with me, thanks

synesthete

A dolly is a very common tool used by bodyworkers. I'm not sure that trying to learn this via a forum is gonna end well for you, there are many videos you can get that could visually show you how its done. Its not that its hard, just hard to effectively explain in text. Icemark and Iceblue are writing a novel here.

darksider

well i know what tools look like personally and i have an idea of what they do, its just im not good with names. a simple explaination will do the trick. thanks

iceblue

A dent is metal stretched. For a dent to return the metal must be shrunk. When you pull it out half of the dent comes up the outer rim. The center is still stretched and when you pull it back up it will pop back down. Example is a sealer pop cap on a jar of pickles. Push it down up it pops.

To get the metal down you must use a pick hammer or a shrinking hammer if dollying. The shrink hammer is a square body hammer with a waffle end when used to hit against a specially shaped dolly it shrinks the metal.

If you have small dents like door dings just body fill them. When feeling the body filler and primer use your whole hand and go side to side. Your eye will not notice imperfections around curves or up and down. It will pick up waves and such down the side of the car so you feel it this way.

darksider

i believe this is what i need, i see this method used in tv shows all the time but thats just them welding the studs on and pulling. i believer theres another step after that so can you please explain what you mean with the highlighted bold text in your post quoted above. thanks ICE

what oil can? ping shrink?

iceblue

That is exactly what you are seeing. They pull it up and maybe really small dent wont oil can but a larger dent will.

What I am saying is when you get to pulling the center up the metal is thin and week. You could push on it with your hand and tell it gives and flexes or pops back down. You pull it up with the puller and hold it up then tap it with a ping hammer a hammer with a pointed pick to shrink the metal around the stud trying to get strength back into it.

Like a pickle jar fresh sealer button top thingy. Best I can explain it.