Im Done With Rx7s.
10-04-03, 09:30 AM
#26
On the prowl for an FB
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Surrounded by Sebey parts, Rhode Island
Posts: 2,932
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
Originally posted by kabooski
Its a electrical problem
your having
You need to take it to a electro mechanic
at first I thought your car was flooding
in which case you just have to reach under the dash
and pull the white plug till she cranks up and then put plug back in
take it to Japtrix
Its a electrical problem
your having
You need to take it to a electro mechanic
at first I thought your car was flooding
in which case you just have to reach under the dash
and pull the white plug till she cranks up and then put plug back in
take it to Japtrix
10-04-03, 09:38 AM
#27
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: northeast
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by BlackFC
Remove the turbo timer from the system, It ssems to be malfunctioning possibly and could have gone bad and it is interuppting your ignition signal.
Daniel
Remove the turbo timer from the system, It ssems to be malfunctioning possibly and could have gone bad and it is interuppting your ignition signal.
Daniel
10-04-03, 09:45 AM
#29
my tII was traded to me for a computer I built for around 2 hundred bucks because he couldn't get it started I found out after taking all interior out and reduing everything that the ignition switch was bad (just the pig tail part) replaced that for about 15 bucks and bam my car starts 
10-04-03, 10:49 AM
#30
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 110 Likes
on
93 Posts
No one has mentioned this: if you tightened the battery clamps "with anger", then they are probably too tight. Battery clips are to only be tightened to a few inch-lbs, not cranked down. If you crank them down, they will deform and make poor contact.
You should start by replacing your battery cables with PROPER MAZDA PARTS. Don't use generic parts in this case.
As mentioned, check your fuses, main relay and remove that turbo timer.
You should start by replacing your battery cables with PROPER MAZDA PARTS. Don't use generic parts in this case.
As mentioned, check your fuses, main relay and remove that turbo timer.
10-04-03, 12:47 PM
#31
MEAN GREEN
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: DEERFIELD BEACH FL
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CHECK THE GROUND THAT BOLT TO THE BACK OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, IT'S SHITTY FROM THE FACTORY. IT'S TOO CLOSE TO THE TURBO AND WILL COMPLETELY MELT.
USE 10 GAGE WIRE IF THIS IS BAD. I'VE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM BEFORE, THE LIGHTS WORK FINE, BUT THE ENGINE AND NOTHING ELSE WORKS.
USE 10 GAGE WIRE IF THIS IS BAD. I'VE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM BEFORE, THE LIGHTS WORK FINE, BUT THE ENGINE AND NOTHING ELSE WORKS.
10-04-03, 02:59 PM
#32
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ft lauderdale
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok my plan of action today is going to be to remove the turbo timer. how, i have no idea. it was on the car when i bought it so im abit scared just ripping out wires that i have no idea are stock or not. the grounds on the car are ok i regrounded not to long ago and the connections are clean. the igniton switch itself i belive is good. its striped down just to the bare switch now. i can start it with a screwdriver. thats if my car decided on starting anytime this week. but i cleaned the connections in the switch and everything so i dunno. i was thinking are there any stock alarms that could do this? like and ignition kill that you have to do some special thing to start it?
10-04-03, 03:10 PM
#33
well I'm messing with my turbo timer myself today as well as other stuff but for sure it is pretty simple disconnecting the turbo timer. First off you have to see if yours has a harness or was soldered on to the ignition pig tail. If you have a harness like I do you can just disconnect it and plug the ignition straight in.
10-04-03, 03:33 PM
#34
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ft lauderdale
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok im looking at this thing. there are connectors with two wires spliced in them. is it really just as simple as just unplugging and repluging stuff? this is a greddy turbotimer. just aittle square box. kinda oldschool i think.
10-04-03, 03:47 PM
#35
zoom zoom go boom
You should see a harness that intersects another. two really, one on each end. Unplug it all and plug the stock harnesses back together. Yes it IS that easy. You got an oldschool turbo timer just like I do. Its a cake walk.
10-04-03, 04:18 PM
#36
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ft lauderdale
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK. I took my turbo timer out of the picture but nothing changed. ok heres what i need. im starting to think it is a bad ground somewhere. ever since ive had my car if i made a very hard left the car would die out. not shut of but not respond for a few seconds. and now i think this and my current situation are linked some how. where are the main engine grounds? any pics or links would be great.what gound could cause this? im looking all over my motor but to my untrained eye its useless. i have a extra giant gauge ground wire going from the uppermanifold to the firewall. but thats fine. where else should i look?
10-04-03, 04:44 PM
#39
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ft lauderdale
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dude,god only knows how many hours i put into this car. i just spent over 2grand getting this car and me back on the road. i dont have the time to guess whats wrong everyday anymore.
10-04-03, 04:49 PM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: winnipeg, manitoba
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey buddy.. i give u prop's ppl are telling you to sell.. part out what ever, do what u wanna do i'm selling mine in the spring.. go piston power.. mines been good but i dunno.
drunk'n Rob Rez
drunk'n Rob Rez
10-04-03, 05:01 PM
#41
I love the seven wouldn't have any other car for a sports car but the electrical problems are a bitch!!!! I feel your pain man but really once you find out the problem it'll be fine just keep at it. It really takes a persistant **** to work on these cars and a certain love for the beast as well.
10-04-03, 05:16 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Whistler, BC, Canada
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It could very well be a bad ground....the starter wire ground. Same this happened to me when i bought my TII. It was running awesome, then suddenly sputtered out. Turned out it was simply a bad starter ground wire. My rx7 pisses me off big time sometimes(like right now), but I can't give it up cause it's too much fun, and it's the only one in town. But seriously check that ground!
10-04-03, 05:17 PM
#43
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ft lauderdale
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have to ride my bike every10min across my complex to my dead car and back to keep checking the forum. i can't find haynes manual and this is pretty much my only source for help. Where are the grounds i should check. someone said behind the oil filter, cant see anything there. im a firm beliver in the search tool hence my like total of 60something posts in almost 3 years. but my search results are to vauge this time. thanks for all the help guys keep it coming.
10-04-03, 05:27 PM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by AlixxxilA
.... ever since ive had my car if i made a very hard left the car would die out. not shut of but not respond for a few seconds...
.... ever since ive had my car if i made a very hard left the car would die out. not shut of but not respond for a few seconds...
10-04-03, 10:26 PM
#45
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Remove the engine and install a transistor jumper pack with a double bypass soleniod fused relay capacitor then focus on the ECU jumper coded transformer system but only after you have coded the matrix embedded double helix main circuitboard. And dont forget to look for the quad-ionized triple platnium flux distributor under the main icon center switch labeled "IE"
Goodluck
Goodluck
Last edited by RylAssassin; 10-04-03 at 10:29 PM.
10-04-03, 11:17 PM
#46
OBEY YOUR MAZDA
I have had the problem that you mentions, AlixxxilA.
Just cruising around my headlights would pop up and my engine would die for a second just to come back on and keep running till the next time it felt like pissing me off
I kept messing with it myself for a few days, just untill I decide to pass it on to a mechanic.
He found out that it was a bad connection comming from the main fuse box and into the wiring harness, supposedly(I dont personaly know) there is some plug inside the wiringharness comming from the main fusebox that was corroded, it was an easy fix but not easy to find
Kim
Just cruising around my headlights would pop up and my engine would die for a second just to come back on and keep running till the next time it felt like pissing me off
I kept messing with it myself for a few days, just untill I decide to pass it on to a mechanic.
He found out that it was a bad connection comming from the main fuse box and into the wiring harness, supposedly(I dont personaly know) there is some plug inside the wiringharness comming from the main fusebox that was corroded, it was an easy fix but not easy to find
Kim
10-06-03, 04:12 PM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Whistler, BC, Canada
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The starter ground is connected to the starter as far as I know. Under the car near the oil pan. Check for a wire connected to the starter, follow it to wherever it goes. This is the only thing I can think of cause this is exactly what happened to me. I took it to a shop though and they told me this. Check it out.
Under the car near the oil pan. Check for a wire connected to the starter, follow it to wherever it goes. This is the only thing I can think of cause this is exactly what happened to me. I took it to a shop though and they told me this. Check it out.
10-06-03, 06:09 PM
#49
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ft lauderdale
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks to Kim From acouple of post above my car now runs. it was a melted connector in a nest of other cables that made it hard to find but it works now. Turbo timer was fine the whole time but due to my metaling it is now all sorts of confused. When i turn of my car the wipers come on, The radio only works when the timers counting down and a host other random quirks which my car now hosts, also now my car At full boost at high rpms i get a small popping sound. Detonation? God only knows. My Rx7 is a game i shall never win.
10-06-03, 06:18 PM
#50
Sorry to here about your problems, but if you are thinking about getting a 3rd gen in the future you are really in for a treat they are 2-3 times worse as far as diagnosing problems not to mention working on them. If you are getting so frustuated with a 2nd gen then you problay need to stay away from rx7s in general. but atl east you got a bit of excerise on your bicycle and your car is running again.