SleeperZzZ

Well this is the first time i will be attempting this without someone on my side who knows what there really doing. Ive done this twice before with the help of a mechanic. Are there any little think you can tell me to help me out and make the job easier... im also changing my clutch... i would like to get the flywheel resurfaced... but i dont know how to get it off... so gimme some pointers... thanks

Project84

Don't drop the tranny. Get something that will stop the flywheel from rotating while you remove the big nut that holds it on. Use a breaker bar like this or an impact gun. Its on mad tight yo

Mr. Gadget

Age old advise, before your drain the tranny, make sure you can bust loose the plug for the fill hole. Also, have a very long extension for the top two bolts. Its easiest to get them after the tranny is hanging down off of the mount.

Kenteth

My first time I did it with my body. Never had experience with drivetrains... ever. Needless to say it was alot of... learning about stuff. Like Mazda engineers use paperclips to hold driveline parts together.

Getting the fly wheel off?
I'll have to go about this in a week or two as I'm also pulling the trans and flexplate and putting on the new flywheel. Its a big assed socket... I think 2 1/4? Anybody want to cross check that? It might be 1 7/8 too, can't remember.

Pointers: If you live on the coast, or in the north, goto wallyworld and buy 1/2 case of PB Breaker. This will substantially lower your number of broken bolts. We had several. Likewise if you see a tough bolt, use a crafstman, snap on, or mac socket. Trust me, it sounds stupid, but you will NOT want to strip out the sides of a clutch bolt like we did. This set us back literaly 10 hours.

Have tools ready. We did our entire swap using a 25 piece craftsman set (paid $49), a big...huge hammer, a rubber mallet, a crowbar, 2 jacks, and a box of permenant markers.

Have a backup car. And if like above, you live in rust vulrable areas, be ready to drive to Napa with your old bolt and have them get the matching. 13 years (in my case) and 16 years in yours is enough to stick tight a bolt that gets heated ++500 deg 4 times daily.

Mmm... Oh yeah... someone mentioned a punching bag in a previous relative thread. Expect to get **Very** frustrated at times, but keep your cool. Mmm... thats all I can think of.

Be glad you're in florida. I did my swap in an unheated uninsulated garage in -10 degree weather last winter. It was no warmer than 15 deg in the garage I was working, thats with propane heaters on and everything. That meant pretty much anything would freeze that wasn't oil based. Including our pizza.

Good luck!

SleeperZzZ

Well i have the tools except for a wrench or socket for the flywheel, does and auto parts store lend or sell these?.... also what are some pointers on putting the tranny back on... it looked hard last time(mechainc did that part) but i think its gunna be harder i only weigh 115 pounds and im not all the strong...

Kenteth

This might sound ghetto, but almost any mechanic should understand... hell how many craftsman socket wrenches have your stripped out gearing-- 7.

Get a 2x4 about 2 feet long. Place it parralell to the tranny with it centered on the tranny oil pan. It should just hit the bell housing and the tail shaft.

Use two jacks, one slightly off cereted (to the front) of the transmission. The other jack use directly on the taishaft (wrap a couple rags around it first.).

BTW It is VERY important your jackstands have wheels. VERY important that the wheels be parrelell.
Once you;ve got the tranny half in the tranny tunnel, position it close to the engine and start connecting everything, al the wireing harnesses.

The rear of your engine probably dropped 2+ inches upon removal of the tranny, so your engine is sitting at an angle. Hence this is why two jacks, always having the tail shaft be lower. Jack it up to the engine and mount up the bellhousing/engine bolts. Than jack up the tailshaft (and note the engine will return to its prior state) and mount up the tranny mount. remove the jacks. Boltin your clutch bolts...

you can handle it from there.

Oh one thing I thought of... be sure to mark your position of the driveshaft to the pumpkin yoke or it will take you 5-6 times to get the driveshaft back on. Using white litium grease works well to mark with, or a grease pen, or paint, whichever.

Thats all I can think of atm

SleeperZzZ

I also need a bolt that for the pressure plate if some has one... If you do Pm me or IM me on Aim/AOl at onereving7 .... Ill pay

Kenteth

damn im board. I seriously need to install some game on this compute.r mspaint doenst cut it.

RunningDeer

Bored? I'm practically falling off my chair :-)

5 point whoa

make sure the little bearing you put in with the clutch is in good, and has some grease on. I didnt grease it, or have it in right and it shattered, and we had to take it all apart agin

SleeperZzZ

how do you put it in right...

5 point whoa

well, you'll see where it goes in, and as long as its on nice, it wont shatter, mine was sitting weird I guess

5 point whoa

if you have any ?'s, just pm me, becuz I can reply to that faster than checking this page. it's not all that hard to take out the tranny. it shouldnt be too hard for you

Kenteth

haha dont ask SonicRat, hes having trouble finding mine

Bauer778

iTrader: (2)

Im in the process of doing the auto>5 speed now, the flywheel nut is 2 1/8 i got the socket at sears

Mark'sMazda

The trans in an NA weighs about 70lbs, t2's are about 90.

I put my whole car up on jack stands so it was level. Put your jack on the cross member of the tranny, and start jacking it up. when you think the back is high enough, lift up on the bell housing and try to line it up. it took me a few highth adjustments to get it right, but once it was streight the trans poped right in.

SleeperZzZ

thanks alot.... im still looking for the clutch bolt... then ill have all the parts i need.... please... someone