ignition switch / brake lights
09-09-02, 10:59 AM
#1
boost on the way(GTU II)
Thread Starter
ignition switch / brake lights
i recently replaced my ignition switch and this morn i just gout pulled over by a cop telling me that my brake lights are out . they arent working... anyone have n e ideas?i clipped some alarm wires ( in which the alarm doesnt work ) maybe it is something to do with that ?u guys think so ?
thanks again
anything will be appreciated
jack
thanks again
anything will be appreciated
jack
09-09-02, 03:36 PM
#2
boost on the way(GTU II)
Thread Starter
well the alarm was hooked up to like 2 wires on the ignition switch and i had to snip them to get the old ignition switch off. should i reconnect those?
n e one out there? i have searched and found nothing . ....
some one please help me i need to drive my car and if it is still without brake lights i will get pulled over again
thanks again
jack
n e one out there? i have searched and found nothing . ....
some one please help me i need to drive my car and if it is still without brake lights i will get pulled over again
thanks again
jack
09-09-02, 10:44 PM
#3
boost on the way(GTU II)
Thread Starter
this is the last time i am posting this... please guys help me im in need of help really bad!
thanks forum members dont let me down for the first time . guru's please help if u need more info i will supply thanks
jack
thanks forum members dont let me down for the first time . guru's please help if u need more info i will supply thanks
jack
09-10-02, 10:34 PM
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Does the horn still work?
if so then the fuse is still good, and more than likely you accidentaly unplugged the brake switch whne you were working on the igntion switch or you have a CPU that needs resoldering or replacing.
If the horn doesn't work, replace your "stop" fuse.
if so then the fuse is still good, and more than likely you accidentaly unplugged the brake switch whne you were working on the igntion switch or you have a CPU that needs resoldering or replacing.
If the horn doesn't work, replace your "stop" fuse.
09-10-02, 11:30 PM
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
do you have a meter or someway to test electrical???
if so, you'll need to check at the CPU.
The White/Green at the 4 pin plug on the CPU should have voltage when ever the brake is pressed. If it doesn't the switch is not working.
The solid green in the same 4 pin plug should have voltage when ever the brak is pressed. If it does not, but the wht/grn does, the CPU is bad, or needs resoldering.
If the white/green and solid green both have voltage when the brake is pressed, then check at the brake lights themselves. They should again have voltage when ever the brake is applied.
If all of above has voltage when the brake is applied, then check ground # 25 which is just right of the 3rd brake light and on the support there.
If it has ground and all the above mentioned wires have voltage, then replace the bulbs because they are all burnt out.
if so, you'll need to check at the CPU.
The White/Green at the 4 pin plug on the CPU should have voltage when ever the brake is pressed. If it doesn't the switch is not working.
The solid green in the same 4 pin plug should have voltage when ever the brak is pressed. If it does not, but the wht/grn does, the CPU is bad, or needs resoldering.
If the white/green and solid green both have voltage when the brake is pressed, then check at the brake lights themselves. They should again have voltage when ever the brake is applied.
If all of above has voltage when the brake is applied, then check ground # 25 which is just right of the 3rd brake light and on the support there.
If it has ground and all the above mentioned wires have voltage, then replace the bulbs because they are all burnt out.
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09-10-02, 11:31 PM
#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
In addition,
The fact that the horn only blows intermitently suggests that whoever re-soldered the CPU did a poor job and that would be the first place I would look.
The fact that the horn only blows intermitently suggests that whoever re-soldered the CPU did a poor job and that would be the first place I would look.
09-11-02, 07:03 AM
#9
Shelby Tuner & FC badass
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Jack,
start puting the wires back the way they were before, see if it works correctly. Then start eliminating wires not needed.
If the lights don't work, and the fuses are still good, then maybe you burnt a fusable link. You may need to run a new wire for the lights.
start puting the wires back the way they were before, see if it works correctly. Then start eliminating wires not needed.
If the lights don't work, and the fuses are still good, then maybe you burnt a fusable link. You may need to run a new wire for the lights.
09-11-02, 09:04 AM
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by GLHS
start puting the wires back the way they were before, see if it works correctly. Then start eliminating wires not needed.
If the lights don't work, and the fuses are still good, then maybe you burnt a fusable link. You may need to run a new wire for the lights.
start puting the wires back the way they were before, see if it works correctly. Then start eliminating wires not needed.
If the lights don't work, and the fuses are still good, then maybe you burnt a fusable link. You may need to run a new wire for the lights.
Furthermore as I mentioned above, that if the horn works then the brake lights should work as they use the same FUSE and power source. Not a fusible link!
*edit
And running a new wire won't work, because the factory switch only has about a 5 amp capability and the brake lights draw more than that. So a entire relay circuit would have to be made up, to support the draw of the brake lights, in addition to the brake warning light would have to be bypassed in the CPU or disabled in the idiot/warning panel or the stop warning would always be on.
Last edited by Icemark; 09-11-02 at 09:12 AM.
09-11-02, 01:03 PM
#11
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wow that is all new to me.
Jack, if you need a relay or a complete wire setup, let me know, I know a guy who has several cars he allows us to get parts from all the time for cheap.
Jack, if you need a relay or a complete wire setup, let me know, I know a guy who has several cars he allows us to get parts from all the time for cheap.
09-11-02, 02:20 PM
#12
boost on the way(GTU II)
Thread Starter
ok well i am getting it checked now by jeff at maztech because electrical is not my game and last night i connected all the wires to the ignition that were there in the first place that went to a relay for an alarm thatz in there but doesnt work. well that didnt work but somehow my wiper switch is bad or sumthing because the wipers dont want to move. if its not onw thing its another... the way i got the rain off my window this morn was to drive fast and let the rain x do its job 
thanks u guys ill check all the stuff u told me to when i get it back .
the horn blew whenevr it felt like it before the cpu was resoldered I JUST LEAVE THEM UNPLUGGED
thanks again
jack
thanks u guys ill check all the stuff u told me to when i get it back .
the horn blew whenevr it felt like it before the cpu was resoldered I JUST LEAVE THEM UNPLUGGED
thanks again
jack
09-11-02, 02:24 PM
#13
boost on the way(GTU II)
Thread Starter
MY IGNITION IS STILL ( klik kliking ) SOME TIMES NOT EVEN A KLIK
my door warning light goes on erratically too i thought replacing the ignition would fix that ( someone on forum told me that along time ago)
are ignitions from an automatic and manual the same?
thanks
jack
my door warning light goes on erratically too i thought replacing the ignition would fix that ( someone on forum told me that along time ago)
are ignitions from an automatic and manual the same?
thanks
jack
09-12-02, 10:39 AM
#18
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by seventhgear
n e one got another idea
n e one got another idea
I have already covered how to trouble shoot the brake lights. And you need the CPU fixed or replaced... so I can only guess you mean now how to troubleshoot the ignition switch.
Last edited by Icemark; 09-12-02 at 10:41 AM.
09-12-02, 10:57 AM
#19
boost on the way(GTU II)
Thread Starter
yes like i said i have a problem with making big misconceptions for people im sorry ... ill try to resolder another cpu i have and ill put it in the 7 and see what will happen thanks icemark
jack
jack
09-12-02, 11:11 AM
#20
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Remember when you re-solder a CPU (and any circuit board that you suspect has cold solder joints) you need to remove the old solder first. Just reheating the solder joints will not eliminate the corrosion that is in the bad joints.
Asways remove the old solder and then re-flow in new solder.
Asways remove the old solder and then re-flow in new solder.
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