Cause its a lot easier than having to remember to add the oil everytime I fill up. I know that I would forget evenutually.

 

Uh, no it isn't.... I've been doing this since August. If your conciencious, it is like taking the gas cap off. I put the oil in BEFORE. Like I said... 2 cycle oil isn't designed to be dripped in like the oil injectors do it.

 

So where is everyone getting their motors rebuilt? Or where are you guys buying your J-specs from and what kind of luck have you had with either?

 

Pineapple Racing

 

www.rotaryresurrection.com

Kevin's a stand-up guy who does excellent work.

 

Yes, that is where mine was done. The porting seems good, I got his biggest street port. I did lose a bit of low end, but it definately makes up for it on top. I have about 8K on my S4 TII engine he did, and it is running as well as it was the day I broke it in

 

About how long after break-in would it be best to install a third party turbo?

 

I would say throw it on with the engine... you aren't supposed to go into boost until 1500 miles anyway.

 

rears man. they suck

 

I do my own rebuilts...

But this is what I know:
LEAN = DEATH

By the way I stopped bowing seals by converting to turbo/carb!!!!!!!!!

 

Piranha: Not necessarily so! A lot of modern 2-stroke engines use an "injector" system. See Mercury Outboards, and Yama-lube motorcycles.

 

I tend to disagree with what has been said here. Every single FC or FD that I have seen (and measured compression) had lower CR in the rear rotor. ALWAYS.

Which means that the Forward->Rear flow of oil and coolant leaves the rear rotor "starving". Same thing happens with fuel.

Rear rotors popping should be considered the norm. Front rotors popping should be considered the exception.....

 

My engine had higher comp in front than rear, it was 5psi but still


and to follow up on my earlier post in this thread. My the waterjacket orings actualy broke on both my front and rear housing, in the same general area strangly enough

-Jacob

 

my friend bought an AE10th anniv. and had double apex's in the rear cracked from lean conditions.

 

Actually the rear rotor gets fuel first.

 

Yeah, I realised that after I posted it.....

So, scratch that line

 

Coolant jacket in the rear rotor in my old 87 GXL. Needed a rebuild. Got ripped off. Engine died 3 months later. Son of a bitch mechanic wouldn't admit it was his fault.

 

actually you should add a few.....i blew an oil seal.. or i blew a coolent seal. cause i blew a oil seal. still running both rotors just blew the oil seal.

TurboSmoke

 

CP Racing.

 

I bought an 86 na with no compression at all on the front rotor. Then last week my 87 TII lost one apex seal on the front rotor. Weird

 

******* ****, my **** blew yesterday, 80 all across, ****! why? because stupid ******* wastegate of the S4 TURBO! the metal piece CRACKED FUCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCK CKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCKCK

 

Quick questions... (S4)

Are the rear rotor housings and the rotor itself the same with NA and TII models?

If an apex seal blows, besides the rotor housing, will the rotor get damaged pretty bad as well? Is the rotor still reusable?

 

oh ****.. now i am worried here. my car is going into my local mechanics because it is leaking oil.. i thought it was from the sump gasket.. or oil pan.. but now an scared incase it is more serious. and my car also uses a bit of coolant/antifreeze??? damn this is not good?

 

oh yeah my car is not blowing at the back and is fine. emissions are great and spot on..

 

I blew the rear rotor in my 7. When I was swaping it out I was able to look inside the rotor. Two apex seals in the rear were totaly destroyed.