View Poll Results: What rotor have you blown and what year is your car?
I blew the front rotor in my 86-88 RX-7
11
7.53%
I blew the rear rotor in my 86-88 RX-7
84
57.53%
I blew the front rotor in my 89-91 RX-7
17
11.64%
I blew the rear rotor in my 89-91 RX-7
34
23.29%
Voters: 146. You may not vote on this poll
If you've blown your engine...
#1
Thread Starter
I wish I had a posse...
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio-Boycott Central
If you've blown your engine...
I'm trying to check out my suspicions regarding whether 86-88's have a propensity towards popping the rear rotor vs. a 89-91 7's favouring of the front.
VOTE!
VOTE!
#3
We believe that the rear rotor is under more stress on most engines, because coolant and oil flow have already been saturated with some of the front rotor's heat before reaching the rear, and heat equals friction which equals wear. In other words the rear rotor may retain slightly more heat over it's life, and therefore it's seals wear out slightly quicker.
My personal theory on why 89+ rotaries blow the fronts more often is due to mazda's dumbass electronic OMP, and some kind of uneven flow or failure issue with it. I dont know why they couldnt leave a bulletproof system alone.
My personal theory on why 89+ rotaries blow the fronts more often is due to mazda's dumbass electronic OMP, and some kind of uneven flow or failure issue with it. I dont know why they couldnt leave a bulletproof system alone.
#6
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Originally posted by marcus219
about the the omp...what are your feelings on pre-mix...how it burns cleaner leaving less carbon deposits..getting distibuted more evenly, etc.
about the the omp...what are your feelings on pre-mix...how it burns cleaner leaving less carbon deposits..getting distibuted more evenly, etc.
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/FAQ/premix.htm
An obvious by-product of the cleaner burning pre-mix is very clean spark plugs. Tearing down engines running solely on pre-mix awards you with very clean internal parts; the spark plugs and rotor faces are barely covered with a fine layer of soot. Stock oil injection systems injecting engine motor oil into the combustion chambers tend to cake the spark plugs and rotor faces with lots of crusty carbon deposits. These crusty carbon deposits tend to jam seals in some cases. In extreme cases, piece of carbon chip off and score housings and possibly cause apex seal failure!
Now let's look at the difference in delivery... Stock oil injection uses oil injectors that inject engine motor oil through a tiny hole in the rotor housing (primaries) and in the lower intake manifold (secondaries). The oil is then spread out by the apex seals wiping by - keep in mind, this is not a "spray" of oil; the oil injectors are not under very heavy (injection) pressure. Pre-mix is typically mixed in with the fuel, so it's injected under heavy pressure with the fuel in a stock fuel injection system; this gives better dispersion in the combustion chamber.
Even after going through the combustion cycle, the pre-mix is still designed to lubricate the internal engine parts. This is a big advantage over engine motor oil! The combustion by-products of pre-mix actually leave a "lubricant" on the internal engine surfaces.
Now let's look at the difference in delivery... Stock oil injection uses oil injectors that inject engine motor oil through a tiny hole in the rotor housing (primaries) and in the lower intake manifold (secondaries). The oil is then spread out by the apex seals wiping by - keep in mind, this is not a "spray" of oil; the oil injectors are not under very heavy (injection) pressure. Pre-mix is typically mixed in with the fuel, so it's injected under heavy pressure with the fuel in a stock fuel injection system; this gives better dispersion in the combustion chamber.
Even after going through the combustion cycle, the pre-mix is still designed to lubricate the internal engine parts. This is a big advantage over engine motor oil! The combustion by-products of pre-mix actually leave a "lubricant" on the internal engine surfaces.
#7
been to that site about a million times man...im already running premix with my omp blocked off...i wanted KEVINS opinion on it...just b/c hes an engine builder..maybe hes seen a rebuild ran on pre-mix vs. a oil injected rebuild..thanks though.
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#9
I blew my front rotor in my N/A 89 but it detonated that way. Not from natural wear so my vote doesent really count. The rear rotor runz leaner in both cars I think wich is why over time the rear goes out first. I would think both cars are the same unless someone has hard proof.
#12
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
#13
Good thread...we need some pics of a torn down motor that has ran premix all its life.
Premix will not clean your engine...it will prevent it from building up more nasty carbon that motor oil will leave when it burns. I suggest some atf/mmo mix in the motor...let it sit for as long as you can..get it evenly distributed or, the water steam clean works damn good too..
Premix will not clean your engine...it will prevent it from building up more nasty carbon that motor oil will leave when it burns. I suggest some atf/mmo mix in the motor...let it sit for as long as you can..get it evenly distributed or, the water steam clean works damn good too..
#14
Originally posted by rotary>piston
will pre-mix clean the engine, or just prevent further buildup? After reading about pre-mix, I'm thinking of going that route.
will pre-mix clean the engine, or just prevent further buildup? After reading about pre-mix, I'm thinking of going that route.
Get a pitcher of water (like 4L or a gallon). Start the car and let it warm up. Get someone to hold the revs at about 3k. Pull off the boost sensor vac line and stick it into the thing of water. Dont let the car stall. Allow it to drink up all that water then put the vac line back onto the sensor and go drive around. You just steam cleaned your internals
#15
Originally posted by dr0x
My rotors looked like first one using the MOP. 216k.
Doubt it. But what you can do:
Get a pitcher of water (like 4L or a gallon). Start the car and let it warm up. Get someone to hold the revs at about 3k. Pull off the boost sensor vac line and stick it into the thing of water. Dont let the car stall. Allow it to drink up all that water then put the vac line back onto the sensor and go drive around. You just steam cleaned your internals
My rotors looked like first one using the MOP. 216k.
Doubt it. But what you can do:
Get a pitcher of water (like 4L or a gallon). Start the car and let it warm up. Get someone to hold the revs at about 3k. Pull off the boost sensor vac line and stick it into the thing of water. Dont let the car stall. Allow it to drink up all that water then put the vac line back onto the sensor and go drive around. You just steam cleaned your internals
#21
I overheated mine due to a water jacket failure as well...
it was interesting seeing the temp gauge go way past the H and then the engine loosing power and then just shutting off.....
Got it started again like 30mins later, sounded like a lawn mower, no power,.
pushed the car all the way home... was about a 15min drive from home/.
it was interesting seeing the temp gauge go way past the H and then the engine loosing power and then just shutting off.....
Got it started again like 30mins later, sounded like a lawn mower, no power,.
pushed the car all the way home... was about a 15min drive from home/.
#25
Mine blew from my fuel injectors being dirty, whether it was flow or spray pattern.
I think that 2 cycle MOP is junk. Why? 2 cycle oil is designed to be sprayed in with gasoline as a mixture, not the way the MOP does it. *shrug*
I think that 2 cycle MOP is junk. Why? 2 cycle oil is designed to be sprayed in with gasoline as a mixture, not the way the MOP does it. *shrug*