mmjb

Hey i was just wondering about my idle. I know that new rebuilds don't like to idle but do they idle at all? My rebuild runs fine, starts up fine, but i have to hold the throttle down until it warms up or else the idle will drop to 0 and shut off. Its just kinda annoying having to hold the trottle for like 3 mins until it warms up. But then when its nice and warm she idles fine around 1k-1.25k.

danec020

Well if it is a fresh rebuild and your in the break-in period. I have read and been told that you have to keep on the gas till it warms up or set the idle to about 1500rpm for the first few hundred miles then you can lower it back. Go read http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/. Kevin has a lot of good tips on that page and one dealing with breaking in a motor I believe.

Dane

astrochild7

iTrader: (3)

not completly true in all cases.... a good rebuild will start a run perfect cold... normally some other factor thats causing the issue.. emmisions timing tps bac vac leak loose rebuild lean/rich bad rebuild tuning ... mine all emissions deactivated some removed.... race port 6 port na(rebuild/ported by me RRA rebuid kit... highflow cat safc k&n minor self tuning med breakin.... starts runs perfect 30 degrees outside... rock solid idle 1100 cold 850 warm never dies..... >race port 6port< rock solid idle ahaha
during breakin > all mods no safc stock ecu started right away no idle issues. never had a low vac issue or nothin.... hell i can get it idle rock solid at 750 rpm but don't... no aux's make it sluggish that low...
I think i found a nack for building these things... just a small list off rules... and they become nasty bad *** motors...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

could be a timing issue as well, usually a rebuild will idle fine on it's own but the problem is that there is adjustments that need to be made and checking them one by one is the first step in getting the engine to run properly after a rebuild. check timing and TPS adjustments then adjust the idle slightly high until the seals have seated which takes a few hundred miles before things will stabilize then everything can be set to spec.

mmjb

ya i'v tired messing with my idle. The idle screw on the BAC dosen't seem to do a dam thing with my idle, I have most of my emissions. I set my TPS to 1k. I don't have a vak leak. Spent like 3 days fixing vac lines and making sure they where in the right place and such. I guess it depends on what emissons have been removed. Only thing i havent tried is setting the idle using the screw on the TB. I guess i could try upping the idle but i don't think i will make a difference cause its already at 1k when warm.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

did you check the timing? i had a similar problem with a friends car, the CAS wound up being a tooth off which threw the timing wayyy retarded, the engine ran decent but wouldn't idle to save it's life.