Thrasher

I have a series 5 '90 GXL, just put a different engine from a '90 GTU so no change there, used the wiring harness from that engine and my original ecu. I can start it up, rev it no problem, sounds great but if I let off the gas it dies. Also if I hold the idle around 1500 or less and give it just a little gas it will die instantly, and I have noticed if it goes under about 1500 rpm the check engine light goes on and its very hard to get it back up to rpm without dieing. Also noticed if it goes below around 500 rmp the tach just turns off even if I recover it and bring it back up to rpm (just started doing this, little worried)

my only worry about it is I do not know if I have the injectors wired right. I know I have the primary and secondarys right but I dunno if I have rotor 1 and 2 swapped (if that matters) on both the primary set and secondary set one connector had a tag on it, I assumed it was the front rotor that was tagged... is this right?

any help is greatly appreciated
-Zach

Thrasher

bump?!

SureShot

To start, you need to blink the ECU error codes.
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html

It should point you to at least part of the problem, maybe the trailing coil hookup.

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

Could be a number of things. Especially after a transplant.

Thrasher

I have pulled the engine codes... pulled #13 preasure sensor ... so I m getting a new one. it also pulled all the solenoid codes because I have no rats nest or emissions?

"RotaryWeaponSE7EN Could be a number of things. Especially after a transplant. "
care to elaborate on your wisdom?

WAYNE88N/A

Boost sensor code is a fairly common occurance, but doesn't necessarily mean that the boost sensor is bad, just that the boost sensor input didn't "make sense" compared to the other sensors, notably the AFM, at the time the code was triggered. I can trigger boost sensor codes all day long, with nothing at all wrong with the boost sensor itself.

You must use the force (or this link), and start troubleshooting your inputs & outputs at the ECU. Like RotaryWeapon said, at this point it could be any of 50 things wrong, because you "touched" damn near everything during the install...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/troubleshooting-your-car-ecu-340578/

Actually, it kinda sounds like a run of the mill vac leak...

Thrasher

checked all over the place for vac leaks cannot find any... I have removed all emissions and the rats nest, have the tb mod and gasket ported manifolds but theses were all find before I swapped the block. Today I adjusted the minimal throttle pate opening so later when its normal hous I will fire it up and see whats up. About those fuel injectors tho... what would happened if I had rotor 1 and 2 swapped?

Thrasher

well idles good now right at 750 rpm happy about that... throttle plates were totally closed at idle, so I adjusted the minimal throttle plate opening set screw and adjusted the bypass air screw at the top and she purrs!

New problem, well not really new just next I guess. When its idling if I go to press the gas it will instantly die unless I really play with the throttle. Dosn't matter if I give it a little gas or alot it will still die unless I basicly pump the **** out of the pedal. O-well new thread I guess since my idle is fine now.

thx for all the suggestions guys