neu

well, i bought a junkyard UIM, with the DC and TB all on it... after mine cracked ofcourse.... i've pulled it out and put it back in atleast 10 times now hunting for vac leaks and such, i just replaced 90% of the vac lines.. so i know this isnt the problem... but i cant for the life of me figure out why my car will not idle on it's own, if i let the rpm drop below 3k the a/f gauge shows nothing, and the car shakes and pops like mad, also, EVERYTIME i start it now, it goes into the AWS, jumps up to 3k, holds fine till i slap the pedal, or take my foot off the clutch......
so.. im thinking now that the tps on this junkyard TB is shitty... can anyone help varify this for me? i didnt put my TB and DC on it because i havent bought new gaskets yet... so im stuck using this till i get the gaskets...
recap: car will not idle under 3k, if rpm drop below 3k car shakes rattles.. pops.. etc, all vac lines checked, needed to be replaced were replaced... using a junkyard TB.. wondering if the problem is with the junkyard parts.... roughly speaking: idling like it's not getting any fuel at all. and a couple times the add coolant light and buzzer came on, *coolant is full* please help me track this problem down

thanks,
alan

neu

well ****, put on my TB, and a new problem comes up... something in the coolant lines on the BAC is leaking.. wtf... this is so much bullshit, NOTHING on the car has changed since last it was running fine.... now im probably gonna end up having a shitty *** lawn decoration.. it's just one problem after another after another... the vac lines are fine i think... i marked them all, i've done it so many times i can do it with my eyes closed.. unless i memorized them wrong, but there are all of 2 vac lines on the TB that make a **** to the coolant system... and these are on right... so wtf is it... it's got me stumped

pengarufoo

so lemme get this straight, you took a tb from a junkyard car and installed it on your car with the junkyard TPS without even checking to see if it worked beforehand, and you're frustrated about having difficulties?

If the same approach has been taken to everything else you are doing on the car I don't think it's surprising that you are having many problems.


Is the BACV connected and functioning?

Have you adjusted the idle with the new tb, shorting the initial set coupler and adjusting the idle screw accordigly?

Have you calibrated the TPS with the new throttle?

Do you have a FSM for the car?

neu

read my second post, i put my TB back on, and my BAC as well, the only part on it now that is fromt he junk yard are 1. the dynamic chamber, and 2. the intake runners.... and im still having the same problem, i guess i can keep trying till i can figure out what it is, but i need some help on this one, i've done pretty much everything i can think of, replaced, check, adjusted everything that seemed logical

neu

i dunno, im wondering if it's something simple like ive over looked many times in the past, i usually start with the hardest and work to the simple ****. i dunno, im tired of ******* with it, there is really no logical reason for it to not idle. there has been absolutely no mechanical change, it would be like if you put new tires on your car, and then it wouldnt start, the 2 things just dont add up.

Parastie

There are two hoses that connect to the intake snorkel (i don't know what it's really called), make sure those are attached!

neu

all of my junk is hooked up... just not working right now... or some damn ****...

neu

bump >> now that there are actually people on here i needs me some input

neu

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

1) initialize your SAFC and start over with the settings, they will not be accurate with your new ported LIM anyways and it sounds like it is partially causing your idle issues.
2) try finding another n/a and compare your vacuum hoses to it's to be sure you have them correct or you can try pinching them with needle nose pliers one by one to see if there is a change.
3) be sure your TPS is set correctly and double check the engine timing just to be sure they are ok.
4) check both leading and trailing coils for spark.
5) be sure the thermosensor and MAF have good solid connections.
6) be sure you are bleeding the cooling system properly, even a tiny air pocket in our cars will cause the buzzer to go off in a hissy fit.


good luck

neu

i dont have an safc in the car yet, i've checked all the vac hoses and what not, it seriously feels like it's not getting any fuel untill high rpm, my a/f gauge shows nothing, and it will just die out completly if i dont keep my foot on the pedal, or hand on the throttle linkage, it was shaking bad under 3k now i've gotten it down to about 1500 rpm, but it still want hold an idle, now it will start with my idle set to 1500, hold it for about 3 or 4 seconds, and die.... im not sure if i getting a bad signal somewhere from having the junkyard tps on for 30 minutes earlier, if it was bad this might explain something considering when i swapped it out with my TB and Bac valve my idle will hold for a minute, and it's lowered to 1500.... i'm not sure what im thinking right now .. just wondering if there is a way i can reset the tps and afm, maybe if i can short something out momentarily i can get them back to a factory setting after i played with it for a while earlier i might have messed something up

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

check your primary injector clips to be sure they are seated all the way.

neu

karack, thanks your all your help man.... do you think that a bad gasket could be the cause of this? i reused my old gasket at the uim to lim mating, it was in pretty rough shape, but i figured it would hold up, you think it could keep me from holding an idle if it was leaking?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it could cause vacuum leaks but that depends on what kind of condition it was in, so long as the gasket material surrounding the runners is in one piece then it should seal alright.

sounds like there is a major issue with either the injection system or maybe even the secondary port actuation system. i would start by double checking all the sensors and be sure the injectors are clipped in properly.

neu

what do you mean by secondary port actuation.. if you are refering to the aux ports.. it crossed my mind that they might be leaking, i cleaned them up and got them back in working order when i had the manifolds off the other day... so who knows

wpgrexx

1st) get a vacuum pressure guage and test the vacuum system. if you arent getting atleast -17 there is a leak.

2nd)if there is a leak, take a propane torch and turn on the propane but dont light it, slowly move the propane around all the vacuum lines and where manifolds join and anywhere else a accesory or anything goes into the block. Do this while the engine is running. If you find it jump rpms at a certain place that is where the leak is.

3rd)check the mating surfaces on the manifold to make sure they are flat.

Once you have the leak solved, set the idle and tps according to FSM.

This is assuming u have all the connectors clipped on and the intake snorkel on properly, check the afm connections both electrical and air. thermosensor on the back of the waterpump. Check the injector grommets, if they are hard and cracked they will leak air and cause vacuum leaks. Its a good idea to replace all seals on all injectors anyway.

wpgrexx

if you are in a rush for gaskets, get a roll of gasket paper and a razor blade.

neu

yeah i do need to replace those injector grommets, but that's been the case for a while now, know any good place to find them? where can i get some gasket paper?

thanks for the tips man

neu

bleh

neu

anyone think this could be fuel pressure related? im not sure what would change with what i did recently, only thing fuel wise i changed was the fpr line that cracked... but it seems possible that im not getting any pressure in the fuel lines at idle, i have nothing showing on my a/f gauge, and it doesnt smell rich like it usually does, idle smooths out when i get the rpm up ... any thoughts?

wpgrexx

man, the reason its not reading is because there is unmetered air going into the engine, ie a vacuum leak. Get the vacuum guage on there dude before anything else.

For the injectors, the little o rings on the top you should be able to get at any parts store, just take an injector in with you, for the bottom grommet, cut a piece of the fattest silicone hose in the hose kits, just make it the same length as the one already on the injector.

BTW do you have the diffuser in the injector holes? Go start the car and hold it running, pour water over the injectors, if it bogs thats yoyur leak, maybe easier than the propane for you.

neu

i cant accept that it would be a vacuum leak man... i've replaced every vac hose in the engine bay, checked and rechecked them all, i've sprayed carb cleaner around all of them, while having my dad hold the throttle at 1k rpm, that's the only reason i think it's fuel related, but i'll make yet another trip to auto zone, get a vac gauge, and varify that it's not leaking or find out that it is.

jhammons01

Karack, would starter fluid show where (if there is a) the leak is??

neu

bump