Idle keeps growin higher each time....
#1
Idle keeps growin higher each time....
My idle keeps growing each time I remove/install the UIM and TB-
When got the car 1k- perfect idle.
After removing TB for replacment of coolant line- 1.5k
After removing a second time for replacment 2k.
Whats goin on here. Nothing else is changing.
Im going to check the TPS and BAC tommorow- but this is just odd.
Does anyone have some pictures of how the ohm meter connects to the TPS plug so that I can do it correctly? Sucks being a visual learner some time.
When got the car 1k- perfect idle.
After removing TB for replacment of coolant line- 1.5k
After removing a second time for replacment 2k.
Whats goin on here. Nothing else is changing.
Im going to check the TPS and BAC tommorow- but this is just odd.
Does anyone have some pictures of how the ohm meter connects to the TPS plug so that I can do it correctly? Sucks being a visual learner some time.
#2
Rotartist
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After removing the uimor tb did you replace the seals? If not i bet dollars to donuts you have a nice freindly vacume leak..spray carb cleaner around the base of the tb and the uim and if the car surges or acts like its gonna die..bingo...
#5
Hurm.
I have this strong wooshing sound, which Im pretty sure is a vacume leak like noted.
Looks like some -form-a-gasket- will have to do for now.
Im pretty sure I know why its doing this too-
After I bypassed the coolant line through the thottle body- I ran a hose from the back of the pump directly to the block- now I think the hose is causing a hump- not allowing it to sit flat. Looks like a bit of re routing and ill be good .
I have this strong wooshing sound, which Im pretty sure is a vacume leak like noted.
Looks like some -form-a-gasket- will have to do for now.
Im pretty sure I know why its doing this too-
After I bypassed the coolant line through the thottle body- I ran a hose from the back of the pump directly to the block- now I think the hose is causing a hump- not allowing it to sit flat. Looks like a bit of re routing and ill be good .
#7
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If you still have to tweak the idle adjust screw after you've fixed your vac leaks, make sure you jumper the initial set coupler (left side, near leading coil) first...
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#8
Yar-Har-Har
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Location: Nashville, 37217
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Originally posted by WAYNE88N/A
If you still have to tweak the idle adjust screw after you've fixed your vac leaks, make sure you jumper the initial set coupler (left side, near leading coil) first...
If you still have to tweak the idle adjust screw after you've fixed your vac leaks, make sure you jumper the initial set coupler (left side, near leading coil) first...
what does that do?
#11
Lives on the Forum
FitnessStain- jumpering that plug tells the ECU that the idle is being adjusted, so it prevents the BAC from trying to keep the idle at 750 while you're tweaking (otherwise, that adjust screw won't do much for ya, because the ECU will activate the bypass air system to keep the idle where it thinks it should be...)
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