i think its time for a custom TID
#1
Just Call Me Terminator!
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i think its time for a custom TID
i went to the track last night. i had no luck. first launch boom TID pops off car is dead in the water. i get pushed over pop it back on. go back second run same thing. i take off the TID. it previous had two little cracks on the end where it goes on the turbo compressor inlet when we put on the new turbo. when i checked it at the track the two cracks were gone along with the rubber judge ito came and cut off the other side but it still kept popping off. i just drove it home and it popped off twice. i unbolted the afm and its been somewhat ok but i'm not gonna risk that happening again! i think its time to goto home depot and make a custom TID with a better clamp any idea's or suggestions i know the guy on partstrader is selling one but i'm not paying $150 for it
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once i did mine i notcie a nice difference...she pulls better now next best thing to getting rid of the afm altogether! e6k here i come!
i found an intake pipe on the highway (just under 3in.) with a 45 degree bend. i cut it down and got some connectors from home depot. i wish i wouldve done the tid sooner but hey it only cost me $10 this way. get a 3in. aluminum pipe and cut to fit.
i found an intake pipe on the highway (just under 3in.) with a 45 degree bend. i cut it down and got some connectors from home depot. i wish i wouldve done the tid sooner but hey it only cost me $10 this way. get a 3in. aluminum pipe and cut to fit.
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i had 2 home depot boots with a 45 degree pipe on mine, or you can do it the seth way and put the afm right on the turbo....
mike
mike
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#9
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Originally posted by vosko
hmm, AFM on the turbo, interesting i still have stock bov and those vacuum lines. i'm still in the pondering stage about this
hmm, AFM on the turbo, interesting i still have stock bov and those vacuum lines. i'm still in the pondering stage about this
#10
Originally posted by Josepi
I'd worry about the AFM being too close to all the heat generated. Don't use PVC either, just have an exhaust shop mandrel bend you some 2.5-3" exhuast to your own specs. It'll cost you about 10-15 bucks, last longer, and is polishable.
I'd worry about the AFM being too close to all the heat generated. Don't use PVC either, just have an exhaust shop mandrel bend you some 2.5-3" exhuast to your own specs. It'll cost you about 10-15 bucks, last longer, and is polishable.
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Originally posted by Grimlock
once i did mine i notcie a nice difference...she pulls better now next best thing to getting rid of the afm altogether! e6k here i come!
i found an intake pipe on the highway (just under 3in.) with a 45 degree bend. i cut it down and got some connectors from home depot. i wish i wouldve done the tid sooner but hey it only cost me $10 this way. get a 3in. aluminum pipe and cut to fit.
once i did mine i notcie a nice difference...she pulls better now next best thing to getting rid of the afm altogether! e6k here i come!
i found an intake pipe on the highway (just under 3in.) with a 45 degree bend. i cut it down and got some connectors from home depot. i wish i wouldve done the tid sooner but hey it only cost me $10 this way. get a 3in. aluminum pipe and cut to fit.
#13
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Originally posted by Ryde _Or_Die
Is there something wrong with using PVC? I use it daily for work so it would be easy for me to do myself. I was going to make it myself and then paint it with some engine enamel and clear coat.
Is there something wrong with using PVC? I use it daily for work so it would be easy for me to do myself. I was going to make it myself and then paint it with some engine enamel and clear coat.
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any suggestions on where i should get the e6k from. i wanna know if theres any place cheaper than rotary performance?
im gonna throw that baby in my 88TII daily driver
im gonna throw that baby in my 88TII daily driver
#16
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Here's something I posted a little while ago, it's a description of what I did to my last car:
My last was a 1984 Mazda Cosmo, complete with factory 12A Turbo. The airbox/AFM/TID/turbo setup was almost identical to the FC RX-7. I replaced everything except the AFM.
I replaced the TID with a Ø2.5" 45º mandrel bent steel tube about 10" long (nice swept bend) which I had flared up to 3" at the AFM end and HPC coated (just for looks), this was coupled to the turbo and AFM with rubber couplers and hose clamps (I didn't have a BOV so no connection was needed). I made a bracket (also HPC'd) to support the AFM. I replaced the airbox with the biggest K&N pod filter I could fit (3" neck), and made a cool little stainless steel square-to-round adapter to fit it to the AFM (I've got a cast HKS one on my FC). The pod filter was isolated from the engine bay with an aluminium shield and fed cold air from a 3" scoop under the bumper. The performance increase was huge (especially when you consider it cost stuff-all because I made it all myself) and it looked really trick. As soon as I get my FC's wastegate ported, this is exactly what I'm going to do, because I know how well it works.
BTW, personally I wouldn't use PVC, I think it looks cheap and nasty!
My last was a 1984 Mazda Cosmo, complete with factory 12A Turbo. The airbox/AFM/TID/turbo setup was almost identical to the FC RX-7. I replaced everything except the AFM.
I replaced the TID with a Ø2.5" 45º mandrel bent steel tube about 10" long (nice swept bend) which I had flared up to 3" at the AFM end and HPC coated (just for looks), this was coupled to the turbo and AFM with rubber couplers and hose clamps (I didn't have a BOV so no connection was needed). I made a bracket (also HPC'd) to support the AFM. I replaced the airbox with the biggest K&N pod filter I could fit (3" neck), and made a cool little stainless steel square-to-round adapter to fit it to the AFM (I've got a cast HKS one on my FC). The pod filter was isolated from the engine bay with an aluminium shield and fed cold air from a 3" scoop under the bumper. The performance increase was huge (especially when you consider it cost stuff-all because I made it all myself) and it looked really trick. As soon as I get my FC's wastegate ported, this is exactly what I'm going to do, because I know how well it works.
BTW, personally I wouldn't use PVC, I think it looks cheap and nasty!
#17
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Originally posted by Josepi
I think there was a thread on this last week about using it for IC piping. Plastics are heated and can release corrosive gases. That's why you never see any PVC bongs for sale anywhere.
I think there was a thread on this last week about using it for IC piping. Plastics are heated and can release corrosive gases. That's why you never see any PVC bongs for sale anywhere.
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Originally posted by Grimlock
any suggestions on where i should get the e6k from. i wanna know if theres any place cheaper than rotary performance?
im gonna throw that baby in my 88TII daily driver
any suggestions on where i should get the e6k from. i wanna know if theres any place cheaper than rotary performance?
im gonna throw that baby in my 88TII daily driver
#21
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ok i now have ITO-SPEC TID. so much more torque in first and second gear damn pos stock TID. a little more boost too. silver93tt and i found an old charge pipe from something. even had the right reducer on it! i will have pix tomorrow its too dark
#23
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
What the hell's that?
What the hell's that?
Hey Vosko, my stock IC was heat soaking like a bitch today. My car was running like *** at the track from having to wait in the staging lanes in 76*+ weather.
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Originally posted by Felix Wankel
Judge Ito.
Hey Vosko, my stock IC was heat soaking like a bitch today. My car was running like *** at the track from having to wait in the staging lanes in 76*+ weather.
Judge Ito.
Hey Vosko, my stock IC was heat soaking like a bitch today. My car was running like *** at the track from having to wait in the staging lanes in 76*+ weather.
#25
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Originally posted by vosko
mine was too yesterday didn't matter cause i didn't run. buy a bag of ice for the intercooler when you go. makes a HUGE difference. what did you run. if you ran 8.9 in the 1/8th that is a 13.9 1/4
mine was too yesterday didn't matter cause i didn't run. buy a bag of ice for the intercooler when you go. makes a HUGE difference. what did you run. if you ran 8.9 in the 1/8th that is a 13.9 1/4
I let off early and coasted to a 9.2 (with a 2.2 60' even), then went home. It runs fine when you're on the road and the ic can stay cool. I guess I need a FMIC before I go back.