I think i have a problem with my re rebuild
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
I think i have a problem with my re rebuild
well compression results prove to me that somthing is wrong
Front rotor 73-73-73
Rear Rotor 85-85-85
thats about 2.5 hrs idle time 1.5 hrs of the idle time is at 2300 rpms
what do u all think???
Front rotor 73-73-73
Rear Rotor 85-85-85
thats about 2.5 hrs idle time 1.5 hrs of the idle time is at 2300 rpms
what do u all think???
#2
Nurse I need 1300cc's NOW
Hey D i think your gauge is messed up. Youve told me that the car fires right up and idles pretty well.. im telling you ,, you need a better gauge and some road time on that RE REbuild
#3
Rotary Power
iTrader: (15)
Originally Posted by felixwankel88
well compression results prove to me that somthing is wrong
Front rotor 73-73-73
Rear Rotor 85-85-85
thats about 2.5 hrs idle time 1.5 hrs of the idle time is at 2300 rpms
what do u all think???
Front rotor 73-73-73
Rear Rotor 85-85-85
thats about 2.5 hrs idle time 1.5 hrs of the idle time is at 2300 rpms
what do u all think???
i think its running so its farther than mine is now, im still in the process of taking out all the wiring , fun ****
#6
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
i let it idle at 3000 rpms out side for 30 mins
Front Rotor 75-75-75
Rear Rotor 85-85-85
a little better, i wanna see that front one go up i dont why itz so low compaired to the other one
Front Rotor 75-75-75
Rear Rotor 85-85-85
a little better, i wanna see that front one go up i dont why itz so low compaired to the other one
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#8
i am legendary
Originally Posted by Karack
i wouldn't worry about compression readings until at LEAST 1000-1500+ miles pass on the rebuild.
It's all variable, though.
Keep checking Dustin, good luck with things. Get some load on it once you get your permit too!
#9
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
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Did you re-use the corner seals and side seals????? If so.. they had to go back EXACTLY where they came from....
did you have the housings lapped????
All sorts of things can cause an engine to take a long time to break in... Also.... its time to start DRIVING it... a light load (NO BOOST) may help out...
did you have the housings lapped????
All sorts of things can cause an engine to take a long time to break in... Also.... its time to start DRIVING it... a light load (NO BOOST) may help out...
#10
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (8)
Don't worry about it yet. run it for 1000-2000 miles and if it hasn't exceeded 100 by then, I'd wonder. But, look at it the other way around. IF you convince your mind that there's a problem, you're going to tear it out and apart right now. IF you leave it alone, until it can be driven and broken in, and later you find that there actually was a problem, you will still have to take it out and apart. What is the advantage to doing so right now? When you dont have any reason to believe there is any actual problem? none. Leave it alone until it can be driven. Dicking around with these cars too much is almost as bad as not doing anything to them at all.
#11
i am legendary
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Leave it alone until it can be driven. Dicking around with these cars too much is almost as bad as not doing anything to them at all.
Yep... I remember that all too well when I did my rebuild. I kept talking to Kevin over PM because I thought I had a coolant/seal problem and I was ready to tear it back open and start all over. But he kept assuring me to give it more time, let the air work its way out, check other things, etc. Eventually it turned out that my heater core decided to crap out at the same time as I put the engine back in, go figure. So my coolant wasn't getting burned up, it was dumping inside my car
Now here I am, rebuild doing great, no worries, and I'm happy.
I think what Kevin has said here is very true, there's no point in starting over (again) before you are sure it is actually a problem. Get your permit, start driving it and putting some load on the engine, check compression every couple/few hundred miles and hopefully watch it go up. Checking compression every 30 min of idle time in the driveway is going to be frustrating since you're not going to see very many changes in those times. Just stop checking for a while, at least until you've put some actual miles on it.
I know that my compression "seemed" low for a while and then peaked/plateaud at about 1300 miles. As long as you car is idling semi smooth (lots of rebuilds with low miles may not idle all that great), and it starts right up and hotstarts without a problem, don't worry.
#12
If it starts fairly easy and is driveable don't worry about it. Enjoy the car for several thousand miles and then do a quick check. Idleing is not the way to break in an engine. You need several hundred cycles of start up and shutdown with lots of loading/unloading the engine to get everything to mate nicely.
#14
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lol I started driving my rx7 three months before I got my permit, **** I learned how to drive stick by putting my 7 in neutral and coasting out of the driveway and crusing around town at night lol, then the motor carbon locked lol
#19
EFI Tech Wannabe
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You could try loading it with the e-brake a bit, but that wont load it the same as a real road, and also would heat up the rear braks a tad.
But again, you should tell us what kind of rebuild this was, did you use completely new parts, laped housings, new or used springs or seals, etc., depending on all this the engine will take more or less to brake in.
But again, you should tell us what kind of rebuild this was, did you use completely new parts, laped housings, new or used springs or seals, etc., depending on all this the engine will take more or less to brake in.
#20
My job is to blow **** up
iTrader: (8)
Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
You could try loading it with the e-brake a bit, but that wont load it the same as a real road, and also would heat up the rear braks a tad.
But again, you should tell us what kind of rebuild this was, did you use completely new parts, laped housings, new or used springs or seals, etc., depending on all this the engine will take more or less to brake in.
But again, you should tell us what kind of rebuild this was, did you use completely new parts, laped housings, new or used springs or seals, etc., depending on all this the engine will take more or less to brake in.
#21
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
heheheh, i just say, i used 9k miles housing, i used RA Apex seals and reuesd corner seals and side seals, Reused side seal spring, new 3rd gen corner springs...
#24
i am legendary
Originally Posted by felixwankel88
heheheh, i just say, i used 9k miles housing, i used RA Apex seals and reuesd corner seals and side seals, Reused side seal spring, new 3rd gen corner springs...
#25
i am legendary
Originally Posted by andrewdruiz
i'm pretty sure the streets around where you live are residential streets, ask your mom if you can just drive it around every day around the block a little bit to help it out man. gl dude
-Andrew
-Andrew