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I think i have a problem with my re rebuild

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Old 04-22-05, 01:42 PM
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I think i have a problem with my re rebuild

well compression results prove to me that somthing is wrong

Front rotor 73-73-73
Rear Rotor 85-85-85
thats about 2.5 hrs idle time 1.5 hrs of the idle time is at 2300 rpms

what do u all think???
Old 04-22-05, 02:15 PM
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Hey D i think your gauge is messed up. Youve told me that the car fires right up and idles pretty well.. im telling you ,, you need a better gauge and some road time on that RE REbuild
Old 04-22-05, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by felixwankel88
well compression results prove to me that somthing is wrong

Front rotor 73-73-73
Rear Rotor 85-85-85
thats about 2.5 hrs idle time 1.5 hrs of the idle time is at 2300 rpms

what do u all think???

i think its running so its farther than mine is now, im still in the process of taking out all the wiring , fun ****
Old 04-22-05, 02:21 PM
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what is a good compresssion reading?
and what is bad?
Old 04-22-05, 02:21 PM
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i bought a brand new gauge today so the gauge is not wrong...
Old 04-22-05, 02:30 PM
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i let it idle at 3000 rpms out side for 30 mins


Front Rotor 75-75-75
Rear Rotor 85-85-85

a little better, i wanna see that front one go up i dont why itz so low compaired to the other one
Old 04-22-05, 02:42 PM
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i wouldn't worry about compression readings until at LEAST 1000-1500+ miles pass on the rebuild.
Old 04-22-05, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
i wouldn't worry about compression readings until at LEAST 1000-1500+ miles pass on the rebuild.
Really? Compression should build a lot sooner than that, especially with housings as low miles as his. I agree that you may not see full/peak compression until then, but you should always keep track of it before and note it. There are other people on this board that hit 100-120 psi after just the initial idle time :|

It's all variable, though.

Keep checking Dustin, good luck with things. Get some load on it once you get your permit too!
Old 04-22-05, 02:57 PM
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Did you re-use the corner seals and side seals????? If so.. they had to go back EXACTLY where they came from....

did you have the housings lapped????

All sorts of things can cause an engine to take a long time to break in... Also.... its time to start DRIVING it... a light load (NO BOOST) may help out...
Old 04-22-05, 03:14 PM
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Don't worry about it yet. run it for 1000-2000 miles and if it hasn't exceeded 100 by then, I'd wonder. But, look at it the other way around. IF you convince your mind that there's a problem, you're going to tear it out and apart right now. IF you leave it alone, until it can be driven and broken in, and later you find that there actually was a problem, you will still have to take it out and apart. What is the advantage to doing so right now? When you dont have any reason to believe there is any actual problem? none. Leave it alone until it can be driven. Dicking around with these cars too much is almost as bad as not doing anything to them at all.
Old 04-22-05, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Leave it alone until it can be driven. Dicking around with these cars too much is almost as bad as not doing anything to them at all.

Yep... I remember that all too well when I did my rebuild. I kept talking to Kevin over PM because I thought I had a coolant/seal problem and I was ready to tear it back open and start all over. But he kept assuring me to give it more time, let the air work its way out, check other things, etc. Eventually it turned out that my heater core decided to crap out at the same time as I put the engine back in, go figure. So my coolant wasn't getting burned up, it was dumping inside my car

Now here I am, rebuild doing great, no worries, and I'm happy.

I think what Kevin has said here is very true, there's no point in starting over (again) before you are sure it is actually a problem. Get your permit, start driving it and putting some load on the engine, check compression every couple/few hundred miles and hopefully watch it go up. Checking compression every 30 min of idle time in the driveway is going to be frustrating since you're not going to see very many changes in those times. Just stop checking for a while, at least until you've put some actual miles on it.

I know that my compression "seemed" low for a while and then peaked/plateaud at about 1300 miles. As long as you car is idling semi smooth (lots of rebuilds with low miles may not idle all that great), and it starts right up and hotstarts without a problem, don't worry.
Old 04-22-05, 04:38 PM
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If it starts fairly easy and is driveable don't worry about it. Enjoy the car for several thousand miles and then do a quick check. Idleing is not the way to break in an engine. You need several hundred cycles of start up and shutdown with lots of loading/unloading the engine to get everything to mate nicely.
Old 04-22-05, 05:18 PM
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i see that load appears to be my problem, my question is i have 1 month till i have my permit, should i start it a few times a week??
Old 04-22-05, 06:48 PM
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lol I started driving my rx7 three months before I got my permit, **** I learned how to drive stick by putting my 7 in neutral and coasting out of the driveway and crusing around town at night lol, then the motor carbon locked lol
Old 04-22-05, 08:09 PM
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have someone with a license take it out a couple times, be real friendly to it. just remember to vary the rpms, dont keep it at any one rpm for too long
Old 04-22-05, 08:27 PM
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hhehe, itz not registered and i want no one driving my baby
Old 04-22-05, 08:46 PM
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ok, so jack it up by the diff, and 'drive'
put varying amounts of stress on it so the seals find their sweet sweet homes
Old 04-22-05, 09:44 PM
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ur not gonna put much load on it by putting in on jacks and "driving it"
Old 04-22-05, 09:57 PM
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You could try loading it with the e-brake a bit, but that wont load it the same as a real road, and also would heat up the rear braks a tad.

But again, you should tell us what kind of rebuild this was, did you use completely new parts, laped housings, new or used springs or seals, etc., depending on all this the engine will take more or less to brake in.
Old 04-22-05, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
You could try loading it with the e-brake a bit, but that wont load it the same as a real road, and also would heat up the rear braks a tad.

But again, you should tell us what kind of rebuild this was, did you use completely new parts, laped housings, new or used springs or seals, etc., depending on all this the engine will take more or less to brake in.
search... almost every one on the 2nd gen forum knows of dustins trials and tribulations with his (re)rebuild...
Old 04-22-05, 10:04 PM
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heheheh, i just say, i used 9k miles housing, i used RA Apex seals and reuesd corner seals and side seals, Reused side seal spring, new 3rd gen corner springs...
Old 04-22-05, 10:09 PM
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p.s e-brake dont work yet hahahah
Old 04-22-05, 10:21 PM
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i'm pretty sure the streets around where you live are residential streets, ask your mom if you can just drive it around every day around the block a little bit to help it out man. gl dude

-Andrew
Old 04-22-05, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by felixwankel88
heheheh, i just say, i used 9k miles housing, i used RA Apex seals and reuesd corner seals and side seals, Reused side seal spring, new 3rd gen corner springs...
You reused your sideseal springs? I thought you used new ones? Guess not.
Old 04-22-05, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdruiz
i'm pretty sure the streets around where you live are residential streets, ask your mom if you can just drive it around every day around the block a little bit to help it out man. gl dude

-Andrew
Yah my friend got a free TII that was "blown" when all reality it was just carbon locked and ATF fixed that for him (185k mile TII block, though, so it's close to its end). It's his project and hasn't been registered by the last owners for about 4 years now. His dad lets him drive it around the neighborhood where he lives since its all residential, no big deal. There's never any cops in residential streets anyways, just don't go fast or hit someone. Then you're fucked.


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