RylAssassin

Ok so i dont wanna make this one of those "what should i upgrade next" threads but im really drawing a blank here as far as for what i wanna do. Basically my mods are in my sig and i plan on taking my car up to import wars next month but my car is boosting way to high and im afriad of blowing up my engine during the races. Basically i obvously want to drive my car fast but i really DO NOT want to blow up my engine.
What i would like to know is what mod i should do next to pretty much make it safe for me to
a. Boost all i want safley
b. Go fast

I have approx 300-700 bux to spend at the time so what should i get with this money.
My only other idea at this point is to call up the rotary performance guys and find out what they think.
Guys please gimmie some info
Thanks!

sneakyasian

a Blow off valve?

dr0x

Pick up a hks fcon off ebay. Those support ~300rwhp with little problem on the stock injectors.

Bigretardhead

s-afc and bigger injectors

Ryde _Or_Die

Pull the turbo and port the wastegate(relatively free). Get a manual boost controller($35-100 or so or go with a profec B for $300). Used s-afc($250). 720cc secondaries($110/piece).

West TX RX-7

Aye, injectors and s-afc. Didn't think about porting the wastegate but that is worth some hp and it's inexpensive.

Free instructions on the s-afc here..

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/safc.htm

NZConvertible

The first thing you need to do is control your boost. Read this thread on downpipes and seriously consider following the suggestions there. Obviously port the wastegate at the same time.
Larger injectors won't do squat if you still have the stock pump. The pump reaches its limits before the stock injectors do, so replace it first.
Another suggestion is to get your car dyno'd and have the A/F ratios logged. This will tell you whether you actually need to upgrade things like injectors (crazy I know...). If you can control boost, and can do a 4th gear pull on the dyno with adequately rich mixtures, there's no need for bigger injectors. In fact you may be able to lean out some areas, but you'll need an S-AFC or similar for that.

West TX RX-7

He's already got a fuel pump and downpipe, intake, N1 exhaust.

RylAssassin

Guys thanks for the input

I have the walboro fuel pump, you know the one everone gets. So with this is it better to get upgraded injectors?
Thanks again

RylAssassin

Hey could i get that thread on porting wastegates??
I think this is the first thing i need to do

BlackFC

I would get 720cc injectors for the primaries and secondaries (4 total) and an S-AFC atleast. If you plan to keep modding your car you will want to seriously consider a Microtech or Haltech also.

Just the secondaries being upgraded leaves you with a BIG lean spot under 3800rpm, as most any turbo based on a stock hotside will get lots of boost before 3800rpm and you only have 2x550cc running up to that point. Either that or you will need to remember to take it easy on the car until you have all 4 injectors firing.

Daniel

RylAssassin

Hey how about this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33742

why not just upgrade the turbo? What do you guys think? Is To4b That much better than a stock s4 turbo?

RylAssassin

BUMP IT UP!

Matlock

That will require more than 300-700. Have you thought about a clutch/flywheel? It's and idea.

Ryde _Or_Die

Well right now you probably don't have the fuel for the stock turbo, so a larger turbo should be out of the question.

RylAssassin

Ok so from what im gathering the best mod for a person that has serious boost creep is too port the wastegate, then add more fuel and get a controller for it. Right?
Hey thanks for all the help guys

NZConvertible

I know that, that's why he's got boost creep. The thread I linked to was about the design of the downpipe, and how to minimise boost creep.

NZConvertible

You've missed the point of my earlier post. Are you running lean? Have you dyno'd the car to prove it's running lean? Why spend hundreds on injectors and fuel controllers if you don't actually need them?
The 15psi you're currently running is too much for the stock turbo and will dramatically shorten its life. Fix the boost creep problem and you'll eliminate the need for bucket loads of fuel to keep it safe. Search for info on wastegate porting (there's tonnes) and consider the downpipe mods.
Are you planning on a turbo upgrade in the near future? Without one you won't be near the limit of the stock injectors.

RylAssassin

hmm interesting point NZ, so i should dyno my car to see if its running lean or not this makes sense. Now should i still get that fuel controller cuz if it is runninng lean or rich, then i would be able to tune it. And without that how would i make any adjustments?

Could you explain the dyno testing to me a bit cuz ive never had a dyno done on any of my cars before. What im concerned about is hitting those high psi's When someone dynos do they go all out and floor it or can you test it just bringing up the rpm's slowly?

Not yet at least, i dont have the money for that yet but i may do it in the near future.

HKSTurboII

Grab a Starion or Volvo Intercooler, and do a front mount ($150). Then at least you'll have the cooling capasity to run larger injectors, and more boost. I would also get a MBC to help control the boost ($50). Port your wastegate ($50 if you take it out). Used SAFC $250. 720 cc Injectors about $150 each. Then you'd be able to run a little more boost, and you be set up for compressor upgrade when you get a little more cash.

HAILERS

http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbo2.htm

NZConvertible

Yes! If you can afford it then definitely. You may be able to lean out some areas (mid-range particularly) for some noticeable gains. You can't. A rolling road dyno puts a load at the wheels so you can run the engine at full load right through the rpm range. It measures tractive effort (torque at the wheels) at it goes and converts that to power. This is usually done at in 4th gear from ~1000rpm right to redline with the throttle held open the whole way. Because you're in 4th gear it takes about 20 seconds or so to do a run. This will put the hightest load possible on the engine, and it will overboost if you can't control it properly. A good dyno operator will be watching the A/F ratios throughout the run and will let off immediately if he sees it start to lean out.

NZConvertible

Despite their name, boost controllers CANNOT control boost, they can only raise it. The last thing he needs is more boost...

RylAssassin

heh, well then i better be holding this dudes hand while hes doing it cuz the last time i boosted at WOT i was in third and it was almost OVER 15psi So you can imagine 4rth gear although i think there no way i can go over 15psi. I really need to make sure when i take my car for the dyno testing these ppl know what there doing... I need to find a good shop in my area.

NZ thanks for all your input and to all the rest

NZConvertible

Maybe you should get that boost under control first. I'd hate for you to follow my advice and blow it up on the dyno...

Search for wastegate porting threads, especially one by boostmotorsport about using a larger wastegate flap (I think it's archived). And don't forget the downpipe mod.