Hmm well lets see. I have had my car for 6 months and it has a reman engine in it with about 30k on it now. It was running really great and really strong. Now after all the snow we got. My car runs like crap. My OMP has given out and my car lacks power. I have tried everything. My car used to be able to beat my friends Saturn now it can't even keep up. And yes I do keep up on maintenance. That is proof enough that running thick *** oil when it is cold outside can mess your car up to me at least to me. You might sit here again and try blaming it on me but that is fine.

 

That still is no proof it was the oil. What year is your car? If its a S5 I don't want to here the oil made the electronic omp die because the die anyways which is why you get the chip from digital tuning and swap to a machanical pump

If its a mechanical pump I do believe that the tolerences may have got to loose from normal wear on the old part causing it not to pump well. The oil would have zero effects on the omp.

How have you tested the omp?

You say your omp has given out but you didn't say you run 2 stroke in the tank? Could this be the reason your car runs like ****?

Did you do a compression check?

Was the reman done properly? Wouldn't be the first time a reman died early.

You need to type some more information before anyone should believe you.

 

Dude I am not stupid I have been premixing thats not why it runs like ****. No compression test yet as I am going back to school and no time or money. and the reman was done properly since it was taken to a trust worthy and good mazda dealer to get done. As to your first part of the question yes it is an E-OMP but get this the electrical parts were fine as I tried swapping the electric parts before I removed the whole pump. So I put the whole pump on and guess what it works. So do you got anything else you can come up with that it could be my fault? Or are you done?

 

This has turned from a question, to a debate over OILS again. Common people, its not rocket science here.

 

Excuse me...Battle of the Noobs....

Welcome to thread #9,008,768 about engine oil in this section alone.

Now welcome to actual facts about oil:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Thank you and STFU

 

Why should I be done? You can't prove its from using 20-50. Your OMP failed, Why should that be caused by the oil? From years of use, it can still wear out.

60 second of running below 20 degrees will not harm anything since oil is still flowing and especially once you reach above that it lubricates even better.

People like you is why a lot of people throw mis information around.

"Don't use 20-50 when its cold because I did and my omp died"

^ Strong Evidence there

 

Yeah... I know, but your trying to argue that thicker oil in winter will flow just as fast as thinner oil? If so your wrong, sorry. A thicker oil when its cold out WILL take longer to get flowing and wont flow as freely as a thinner oil. Arguing that is retarded. Is it easier to pull water up a straw, or maple syrup? Thick oil, as Ive said, WILL take longer to reach the bearings after the car has sat long enough for the oil to all run to the oil pan. Of course some will be left, but having a thinner oil in the winter IS better than a thick oil when it comes to starting. Unless you have some sort of magic car that reaches full oil pressure as soon as you touch the key

 

So your saying that I have zero oil pressure during startup? I have 50-60psi. I have checked it with a mechanical gauge. I also timed my motor to about 15 seconds before it gets above 50 degrees.

And where did you see me say that I am saying thicker oil flows just the same as thinner oil? Now you are making **** up. Im saying it still flows just fine. Compairing a HUMANS ability to create enough vacuum by mouth to suck out thicker fluids can't even be compaired to the vacuum an oil pump produces to suck oil from the pan and the pressure it creates to force the oil through the motor.

The thicker oil will still be on the bearings longer while it sits. Some of the oil will not drain back to the oil pan. Remember how mazda used the thermowax pellet on the e-shaft to prevent the oil from flowing through the shaft and to the bearings untill it reached over 100 degrees. Those bearings are still just fine along with all the other parts.

You are trying to prove that the thicker oil you used did not flow at all and ruined your OMP.

Im sorry but if anything was going to get ruined, it would be parts with the most stress. The OMP does not have much stress on it at all.

Let me clear your argument up. You had an OMP Failure, not an oil problem You read all the time how someones OMP dies, doesn't matter if its S5 or S4.

 

Now You, Who the hell you calling a noob? Does my post count represent the amount of weeks I have been around rotaries? Or the amount of of weeks or months I have been alive? I have been alive for 23 years and I have been around rotaries for 5 years.

You STFU. You don't know me.

 

Not at all. But your join date of a month ago signifies how long you've been around this site. And in a month I don't believe you'd be able to see the plethera of threads about oil in this section alone.

Good stuff, I've been on the scene for about 8 now.

Correct. I don't know you.

But you don't know this site either, and trust me, there's plenty of existing oil arguments on this site which cover what you guys are bickering about........so am I justified to not want to see this being bumped up again and again as you hash out particulars on weights of oil? Yes I am.

Besides.....the FSM covers what weights to use for what temperature/climate, so there really is no argument anyways.

 

I read a wee bit too much about oil when I was faced with all the paranoia over synthetics.

Anyhoo, all sources say mixing oils is perfectly fine. You can go straight to Mobil 1 5W30 without any incompatibility issues whatsoever. However, blending oils (e.g., 50:50) is not as effective as a single oil since the additives won't be in the right proportions.

To clean your engine, Royal Purple recommends using regular oil drain intervals (3000 miles) until your engine is clean, then switching to longer intervals. Mobil 1 is pretty good stuff, so it should work well enough. As it happens, lighter weights are better for cleaning the engine since they dissolve better. Some (crazy?) people even do quick flushes with 0w10 (or something like that). After you've burned through your Mobil 1 I'd switch to 10w30, since that is the typical recommended weight for N/As.

Also consider Chevron Techron concentrate for your gas. Or better yet get your fuel system components cleaned if they need it. Also check out www.toptiergas.com for the brands that with the proper levels of detergents, etc. to keep your engine clean of deposits. Gasoline additives are never necessary if you use a good brand with the proper additives already added. And most of the gas additives sold are garbage anyway. Techron concentrate really is just concentrated Techron. Oil additives are always garbage. Good quality oil already has the right amount of each additive.

 

Thats not at all what I am saying, and yes you will have oil pressure upon startup, but you will also have air pockets and some dry spots for the first several seconds. All Im saying is that thinner oil WILL flow sooner and better in the cold than a thick oil during startup. Im not trying to say its a huge amount or anything, Im just being picky. Surely you wont argue that. Crank up 2 engines
side by side, one with 5-30 and the other with 20-50... its 32 degrees F outside. The car with the 5-30 will circulate sooner and reach a full flow with max pressure faster. Not by a huge amount but maybe a few seconds. ALSO yes, oil will stay on your bearings, but like I said, if you leave your car long enough for it to all run back to the pan (over several weeks) you wont have enough oil left on the parts to lube as well as it would otherwise. Something as small as 1 extra second per startup with low oil pressure or no flow can add up over months or years to wear more than normal

 

I agree with most of what you said except for

And about what you said about dry spots. Air pockets, yes, thats not a big deal though.

It can't all drain back into the pan from a horizontal shaft with a lot of areas for oil to puddle up while sitting. There will be no, well atleast shouldn't have dry spots either. Everything that should have oil while have oil, just not a whole lot of it.

Now me personally, I don't leave me car sitting for weeks at a time, unless winter comes and I happen to have a spare vehical to drive. Most of the time I drive it in winter. While its sitting for winter im sure a lot of the oil will drain to the pain but not all, and all the parts that need oil should have a thin coat of oil on them which would be enough to last for the first few seconds till the oil gets pumped through on the next start up which would be in spring when its well above 30 degrees.

Very true if the parts happen to have no oil on them. Since there is pressure and flow, we don't have to worry about this though.

So I guess I havn't been browsing the site before I made a new SN? I had one before. The amount of posts someone has and when they joined means NOTHING. I know all about this site way before it got its face lift. I usually stay over on teamFC but its been pretty dead over there.

I have seen all charts and if you have read what I have been saying, it takes less the 15 seconds for my engine which would be below 30 since it gets below that here, to reach 50 degrees. which is 22 degrees higher then the temp rating of the oil. Within that 15 seconds, parts are still being lubricated fine enough.

Great, lets hold hands and learn together

 

To give a short answer to last two posts: Thinner oils are commonly recommended for cold weather driving specifically because they flow better and coat the parts sooner during startup (thick oil flows especially bad when cold). Thicker oils coat better and are recommended during hot weather driving (thin oils coat especially bad when hot). Multi-weight oils (i.e., xxWxx, all oils nowadays), alleviate this problem by being thinner when cold and thicker when warm. 10w30 is recommended between 0 and 80 degrees. Unless you live in Minnesota or Arizona or some such state, just use 10w30.