2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

I need some clarification on mixing oils

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Old 12-30-06 | 04:25 AM
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Arrow I need some clarification on mixing oils

Ok guys ive been searching the site trying to find info on changing between different types and weights of oil , whats safe whats not ect and i kep finding completely opposing arguments.

I have come to accept that changing from dyno to synthetic is not a big deal on a pretty young motor but now I need to know what the rules are for switching between oil wieghts.
The reason im curious is because I recently put Royal purple 10w30 into my newly aquired fc not knowing what was in the car before. During the change I realized the oil in the car was filthy and I want to change it every couple of weeks till the dirty oil in the cooler ect cycles out. I have a case of mobile1 5w30 just sitting and if its safe to switch between them id be saving myself alot of money.

I hope this post is clear enough, thanks for any help.
Old 12-30-06 | 04:31 AM
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the one time i took my car in to have the oil changed they put in 5w-30 i was like wtf!! the car ran fine and it did its job,id say go for it i mean as long as your going to change it anyway it cant hurt anything.
Old 12-30-06 | 08:19 AM
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Arrow

I was confident there wouldnt be an issue then I go and read a thread saying "thats fine. but WATEVER YOU DO DONT MIX DIFFERENT WEIGHTS!!!!, it will bring doom across the land". Well ill go for it itll only be for 2 weeks or so anyway.
Old 12-30-06 | 08:47 AM
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No problem mixing weights, but one thing to keep in mind, that 5-30 is pretty thin. It flows like water, and especially here in the NE when temps are in the 50's I'd be a little concerned. Have never used it in a rotary (10-30, 20-50 now 15-40 for the last 5 years), but have in many gas engines in the winter, however that was recommended by the manufacturer.
Old 12-30-06 | 09:30 AM
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IMO 5w30 may be a little to thin for the temps that the engine aquires.. I woudl stick with a 10W40, 15W40, 20w50

however changing weights wont matter just do go from syn to reg, to syn to reg.. pick a type and stay with it. same as brand pick a brand and stick with it

honeslty if it is gonna be non synthetic I would go with castrol maybe mobil, if it is synthetic ONLY mobil 1 IMO
Old 12-30-06 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SpooledupRacing
however changing weights wont matter just do go from syn to reg, to syn to reg.. pick a type and stay with it. same as brand pick a brand and stick with it
Care to elaborate on that one?
Old 12-30-06 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SpooledupRacing
IMO 5w30 may be a little to thin for the temps that the engine aquires.. I woudl stick with a 10W40, 15W40, 20w50

however changing weights wont matter just do go from syn to reg, to syn to reg.. pick a type and stay with it. same as brand pick a brand and stick with it

honeslty if it is gonna be non synthetic I would go with castrol maybe mobil, if it is synthetic ONLY mobil 1 IMO
Why do you say stickign with the same type is so important? I want to stick with royal Purple but im going to use this mobile1 to clear out the system before I got spend another $40 on royal purple.
Old 12-30-06 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
No problem mixing weights, but one thing to keep in mind, that 5-30 is pretty thin. It flows like water, and especially here in the NE when temps are in the 50's I'd be a little concerned. Have never used it in a rotary (10-30, 20-50 now 15-40 for the last 5 years), but have in many gas engines in the winter, however that was recommended by the manufacturer.
I agree that 5-30 is very thin but if the temps are low I would stay with the light oils. The thicker oils get really thick at low temps. If you start your car below 0 and use the heavy oils let your car heat up before you drive it.
Old 12-30-06 | 12:49 PM
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100% NOTHING wrong with mixing oils. I ussualy run 4 quarts of 10-30 and 1 quart of 20-50. 10-30 is a bit thin for my liking, and adding a 20-50 thickens it just enough. Probably could do about the same with a 15-40, but finding 10-30 and 20-50 is so much easier.

The best non synth oil Ive found is Kendall Racing. If I can find it at the parts store Im at, thats what I get. Otherwise I go Valvoline VR1 racing oil. Both are fair priced and make me feel much better about my purchase. Oil is pretty much oil, but it makes me happy
Old 12-30-06 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SpooledupRacing
IMO 5w30 may be a little to thin for the temps that the engine aquires.. I woudl stick with a 10W40, 15W40, 20w50

however changing weights wont matter just do go from syn to reg, to syn to reg.. pick a type and stay with it. same as brand pick a brand and stick with it

honeslty if it is gonna be non synthetic I would go with castrol maybe mobil, if it is synthetic ONLY mobil 1 IMO
Old 12-30-06 | 01:28 PM
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It's great when people state their unverified opinions as fact. Mix how you want within reason. We're not talking bleach and ammonia here...
Old 12-30-06 | 01:46 PM
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Hey BklynRX7 please send me the door handle i payed you for about 2 monthes ago! I havent been able to get ahold of you because it said you were over your pm limit.
Old 12-30-06 | 02:39 PM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by pearlrx7
Hey BklynRX7 please send me the door handle i payed you for about 2 monthes ago! I havent been able to get ahold of you because it said you were over your pm limit.
Why didnt you just email me? I messaged you twice and got no response. If you pm or email me your address asap ill have the handle out tuesday. Please pm me next time, my inbox is no longer full.

BTT, so i guess we can say that I can do what I planned with the mobile1/royal purple and not risk damaging anything. Thanks for all the help.
Old 12-30-06 | 03:36 PM
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So let's see here...

It's summer time and you're changing your oil. Time for good 'ol 20w50.

Blah blah blah, summer time fun, oil change here and there.

Uh oh, it's winter time and coincidentally oil change time too. Time for the 10w40 (I don't use it but a lot do).

So, I'm not sure I understand your concern. You are worried about changing oil weights in the car? Why? Many will actually recommend you switch weights between seasons. If you end up with the proper weight in the end it doesn't matter. I think 5w30 is a bit thin. Personally, I don't ever change weight.
Old 12-30-06 | 03:44 PM
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10-40 has extra additives which I hear from a lot of people are bad.

I am using 20-50 in the winter right now. I need a little thicker oil in my motor.

One thing I don't get about the viscosity numbers is everyone says to use the type of oil depending on the outdoor temps. I say, who cares about the outdoor temps because once the engine is over 30degrees, any oil works fine and onces its hot 20-50 is great.
Old 12-31-06 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaMan99
10-40 has extra additives which I hear from a lot of people are bad.

I am using 20-50 in the winter right now. I need a little thicker oil in my motor.

One thing I don't get about the viscosity numbers is everyone says to use the type of oil depending on the outdoor temps. I say, who cares about the outdoor temps because once the engine is over 30degrees, any oil works fine and onces its hot 20-50 is great.
well someone was feeding you lies. additives has nothing to do with the thickenss of the oils, but the oil company. Oil isp retty much oil with a few exceptions. Just pick a thickeness between 5-30 and 20-50 and go with it. Not a big deal, its just oil. Dont go too thick in winter and not too thin in summer and your fine
Old 12-31-06 | 01:01 PM
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Dont go too thick in winter and not too thin in summer and your fine
I don't think it really matters. Like I said once your engine is over 30 degrees. Thicker oil will flow just fine.

well someone was feeding you lies. additives has nothing to do with the thickenss of the oils
I have read many articles on the internet all saying the same thing that they did have some kind of additives, not that kinds you buy at the auto store. So untill someone can prove those articles wrong, im sticking with what they say.
Old 12-31-06 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaMan99
I don't think it really matters. Like I said once your engine is over 30 degrees. Thicker oil will flow just fine.

Yeah but what happens before the engine warms up. That thick oil wont move very easily and will take longer to start lubing parts.


I have read many articles on the internet all saying the same thing that they did have some kind of additives, not that kinds you buy at the auto store. So untill someone can prove those articles wrong, im sticking with what they say.

Like I said, the additives are added by the company. Why would they put a bad additives in 10-40, but not the other oils. The additives they add arent based on thickness of the oil... I hear 10-30 oils have magic additives... all of them
^^^^^
Old 12-31-06 | 05:50 PM
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just follow the owners manual for the weight of oils. and flushing with the mobil 1 and the going to royal purple isnt goin to be bad. but dont mix oils in the pan like half mobil1 and half royal purple.
Old 12-31-06 | 06:00 PM
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Final Answer... dont mix conventional and synthetic oils. Otherwise go wild
Old 12-31-06 | 06:48 PM
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rule one… is not to run synthetic oils if your not pre-mixing your gas

rule two…. Re-read rule one


as far as motor oils.. non synthetic oils are all petroleum based... therefore there should not be any issues with mixing them. I mix brands weights all the time. the only thing I stay away from is the detergent oils


oh, and stay away from peanut oil, bean oil, coconut oil, olive oil... and I can’t believe it's not butter
Old 12-31-06 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BASTARD
rule one… is not to run synthetic oils if your not pre-mixing your gas

rule two…. Re-read rule one


as far as motor oils.. non synthetic oils are all petroleum based... therefore there should not be any issues with mixing them. I mix brands weights all the time. the only thing I stay away from is the detergent oils


oh, and stay away from peanut oil, bean oil, coconut oil, olive oil... and I can’t believe it's not butter
dont pretty much all oils have detergents as an additive?
Old 12-31-06 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BASTARD
rule one… is not to run synthetic oils if your not pre-mixing your gas
as long as you have a omp that is in good working cond, you dont have to premix.........



and i have used royal purple during the summer(20-50) and it ran very well...the only problem i had was finding places that sell the royal purple.......make sure if you order the oil you order extra so if you get a leak or sumthin then you dont get stranded somewhere without oil...... during the winter im now runnning mobil1 10-30
Old 01-01-07 | 05:07 AM
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like someone said before yeah once your car gets heated up nothing to worry about. But remember I had this problem. I live in Oklahoma we get cold winters. I had 20w-50 oil in my engine and it was sub zero/negative temps. I didn't change out my oil I ran it like that in the cold. Now I am having problems with my car big time right now. If you have cold winters put 10w-30 in it. If it is warm year round don't worry about it.

Only big rule is don't mix synthetic with non-synthetic. That will destroy the integrity of the oil and it won't be able to do its job.
Old 01-01-07 | 08:42 AM
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Yeah but what happens before the engine warms up. That thick oil wont move very easily and will take longer to start lubing parts.
Anytime I start my engine. I still get 50-60 psi. Do you know what that means? Oil is being forced through the motor.

Do you think because the oil is thicker that its not going to move at all? Ofcource its going to lubricate just fine while its cold but even better when it warms up.

I am having problems with my car big time right now
And you can base your problems on the use of 20-50 in the winter? What are your problems, how many miles on the motor and show me signs that its from using 20-50

rule one… is not to run synthetic oils if your not pre-mixing your gas
You need to be more specific. Royal Purple is synthetic but burns clean. There is also another type of synthetic out there burns clean. Since there is way to much confusion on whether usuall synthetic such as mobil1 shoudl be used in rotary while having an OMP, I would just not use synthetic except for royal purple or others that are designed to burn clean.



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