Gators

I have found a 13B engine out of a 1987. It has 80,000 miles on it, and runs like a top. I need to know if this will work in my 1989. My car has a 13B - but is it the same engine and will it bolt right up? Will my manifold and everything else hook up.

Also, is $200.00 a good deal?

Thanks

RETed

Close enough...
Non-turbo right?



-Ted

Gators

Right, it is N/A.

Gators

Right, it is N/A.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

YOu will have a small isse with the OMP. The 89+ uses an electric unit, while the S4's use a mechanical pump. Your ECU will be looking for that signal, and it will not be there.

I am not sure of the reprecussions of this "lack of signal"

That is the most major difference I can think of.

Gators

What is the OMP? I am new to Rotaries, so be patient with me.

Gators

Should I put this engine in my car or will it be one of those things where I wish I had never done? It is such a good buy that I was hoping to make it work until I can get my dream engine built by Kevin Landers.

Sleeperx7

I wouldn't... the wiring will be a pain to hook back up, plus the '89 engines had higher compression then the '88 and earlier 13B. You're probably getting closer to 155-160 hp out of your 89, whereas you'll only get 145 from an '87. Save your money and put it in something else. Just my opinion.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

The OMP is the Oil Metering Pump. It is located behind the lower waterpump tube, wher it meets the lower radiator hose. It is designed to pump a small amount of oil into the rotor housings to provide lubrication for the apex seals as they slide over the surface of the housing.

Some people who have gone to premix in a S5 car, just have left their pump connected to the harness, but not connected to the block. In essence, it just dangles there. This tricks the ECU into thinking its there.

Perhaps, you can do that. Use the S4 shortblock, and leave your S5 electric pump disconnected but pluged into the harness.

BTW...you are swapping over the manifolds and such right?

elfking

Oil Metering Pump (OMP) is used to take some circulating oil and drop it onto/into the inside of the motor. (IE: Rotor's and housing) in order to lube the Apex seals which in turn will give you compression in the engine. (If I have this all right, im new to rotaries as well.)

The only other difference I can think of between the 88 engines and the 89.. Aside from the OMP, is the tachometer. It goes up to 8 before redline on your 89, however on the 88 engine, its only 7k redline. So you would have to remember that...

I have read threads on being able to just disable the signal going to the ecu about the OMP and tell it to forget about it, do a search for "premix" and find a post with someone talking about their 89+ FC's which have their OMP disabled... There you should find instructions.

If you are getting the engine for a good price then you might want it (From your first post it says "200 dollars" and if that is what you were paying for the engine. I would say Yes it is a good deal if its running and running strong. However there might be more differences that I have not seen or read about...

EDIT: Whoops looks like sunshine beat me to it.
Enjoy.

Gators

OK. I will try to figure it out. I am getting it for $200 and it is a strong motor - only 60,000 miles on it. It should last me until I get my dream engine built.

Thanks alot for your help!

Gators

Oh, I will be using all of the peripherals on my engine - manifold included. I planned on taking the new engine and setting mine right next to it and exchange the parts over. Is that the way to do it?

RETed

GOOD non-turbo engines are getting hard to find, and prices are starting to edge up.n  Mazda does not produce any of the special engine parts anymore, so a good running core is really worth a lot of money...more than a turbo one.  A good running NA 13B is worth at least $1,000 on my book.  You can still get J-Spec turbo 13B's, but an NA engine is starting to be valued like gold.

At the very least, you got a good deal on the engine.

If you insist on running your 89+ stuff, you'll need to swap the TB/TPS and front cover to handle the electric OMP - you can't just disconnect the EOMP, as it'll trip a limp-home mode and make the car a bear to drive.



-Ted

Sleeperx7

No, there's a difference in the rotors used inside the engines. The '89s and up have something around 9.6 compression vs. the '88s and under 9.3. Also the injection ports are different, the 89s alow more fuel to flow into the engine. I know this because these are the upgrades I'm doing to my car currently. The switch using the 89 fuel rail is not a piece of cake, or at least putting an 89 fuel rail on an 88 is a pain in the ***. Maybe it won't be bad going the other way. I'd still say save your money.

RETed

Zenki NA is 9.2:1 CR.
Kouki NA is 9.7:1 CR.

Yes, the rotor weights are different, but if the original poster keeps the flywheel intact with the particular engine, everything else is basically swappable.

Yes, the fuel rails are slight different, but swapping just the fuel injectors will also work.

I dunno about different "injector ports" or one engine flowing "more fuel into the engine" though...


-Ted