satch

iTrader: (1)

Very good idea. Time to call it a night.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

damn, another day without my car. Man i'm getting close to just selling it, don't want to cause rotaries and I have a good history, this is the first time i've had a problem i couldnt fix

Rotary_Junkie

i would make this up http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html
and try to start it up and leave the key on and see if its throwing any codes. you can clear codes by taking all the power out of the car. disconnect the battery and turn head lights on and radio and drain all the power for ten seconds or so then hook the battery back up. also if ur battery is low its just adding to it flooding eaier. make sure its putting out plenty of amps. ur first vid posted just acts as if the car is just heavily flooded. charge it all the way up and pull the fuses and crank it till the battery dies man. then charge it up again,put the fuses back in and crank it. i think ur not cranking it long enough to unflood it.
good luck bro. it will bad to hear you getting ridd of a rotary. dont loose ur love for it.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

::SIGH::
#1 with only 1 car its very hard for me to get to a radio shack
#2 I charged the battery cranked it till the battery died, charged it, cranked it, etc...
#3 I'm going to charge it when i get to work tomorrow if I crank it till it dies again I will have to wait till wednesday till I can charge it full again.

I need other options besides the ones you are giving me, im not saying your advise isnt worth anything but all its doing is sending me in circles and raising my frustration. I know there is engine flooding but there has to be some other reason for it or something adding to it than just draining the battery and charging it and draining it over and over again.

satch

iTrader: (1)

One of the problems with getting your car back on the road isn't just a function of the condition of your car but also to a degree of who the owner is and what does he know about his car. People can sense on this board that your knowledge of the RX7 is somewhat limited thus doing things in a baby steps fashion is the likely process required. Things like getting "all" of the relevant ECU readings and knowing the exact number what the fuel pressure is and so on would have been done in a span of a couple of hours if that by most individuals in your situation. While its been a number of days since you first asked for help do you know what the fuel pressure is? No. Do you know the pertinent readings from the ECU? No. Have you replaced the spark plugs? Likely not. Do you have the proper tool to pull codes from the engine? Nope! You just recently purchased a multimeter. This is a situation created by one person and only one person and he looks much like yourself and therefore you have to endure the consequences of such.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

+1

We know it's frustrating, but most of us that have had RX-7s for a long time have all the right tools and are familiar with the FSM.

Think of it this way: You're learning at the same time as troubleshooting.

Remember back to when you learned to ride a bike?
You probably fell off a few times in learning to get balance.
Then, you had training wheels... You couldn't corner too hard or they'd bend.
Then you got a bike with different gears and you had to figure out how and when to change the gears.
Now you can get on a bike and get around with no problem...

Same thing here... You just got your first multimeter. Now we're showing you how to use it.
You are reading the FSM and learning how it's broken down...

The good thing is that you know WHY the car won't start... It's because it's flooding. Now you need to figure out why it's flooding.

The engine is controlled by the ECU as you know... It's a computer. It reads sensors to know how much air is going into the engine and calculates how long to fire the injectors to send the right amount of fuel into the engine.

Right now, it's confused and getting wrong information... As a result, it's dumping way too much fuel in the engine. (Too much fuel = not enough air... Fire needs oxygen in the air to burn properly... No fire, engine doesn't run.)

So at the moment, you're gonna have to troubleshoot the sensors and wiring to the ECU.



Right now, it's probably a good idea to get a battery charger so that you can charge at home as well as have a constant 12volts supplied to the car's electrical system so that you can troubleshoot. Cheap one will work. Something that'll supply a good 10-15 amps is handy to have around and will charge the battery enough to crank the engine in a matter of hours.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Gotian, I say that while you have downtime without your car, spend a good couple of hours reading the Fuel and Emissions section of the FSM while your battery charges. At least then you will know exactly where to go to find the readings you need, and also will know a lot more about the car you are driving.

It's a learning curve, and one "good" thing about these cars and this forum is that you will learn a lot about them in a short period of time if you want to keep your car running, lol.

So after you charge the battery, get us some good solid info as far as readings from the ECU and we can help you a lot better than just throwing out ideas.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

battery is charged, but um, im reading the instructions on the multimeter and its saying i need to put the positive in where i want to read and the negative on the load side, in this case um where would the load side be cause i want to get proper readings here

satch

iTrader: (1)

Black meter lead goes to ground, Red meter lead goes to the source of the voltage being read. Check pin 3J for 12 volts. If it is then the battery is fully charged. You could also go directly to the battery for this reading but since you'll be in the ECU neighborhood you could just do it there. Also, get a reading on pin 2I (Green/White),which is the Water Thermosensor, which is very important to the starting of the car. It should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Don't forget 2E either, you need to make sure the ECU is seeing the AFM, or the car will not stay running, much like in your vid.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

hmm When I use the multimeter it isnt giving me accurate readings IE it jumps all over the place or it will go from a high number down to zero or just not do anything. Thats why I asked if I was doing it right, last night I was able to get readings now I cant for whatever reason. And my battery is fully charged and is in good condition. I charged it at work and got it tested right after.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Make sure you are using a good ground when you use the meter. Make sure the key (ignition) is to 'ON' and make sure you are getting a good solid contact with the red lead onto the pin you are trying to read. Lastly, make sure you have the Multimeter set to DC voltage.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

i will double check everything. OKay so I need the car running by like yesterday, I need to be able to move around to look for a second job cause today the electric company came by saying i have 5 days to pay 255 or they will disconnect the electricity. I am not in the best financial situation here and not having a car to move around is only making it worse.

Im going to go check the pins now to get readings but i really need some dire help here.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

battery reads 12.3volts

gotian

iTrader: (1)

2E is 3.9 volts
2A is 5 volts

gotian

iTrader: (1)

2I is 2 volts

gotian

iTrader: (1)

i dont know if this has anything to do with it but maybe you can shine some light on it.

I saw this wire was cut off


from my experiences wires generally arent supposed to be cut

the wire was connected here

gotian

iTrader: (1)

anyone there to help me out?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Since you seem to be down to relying on desperate measures then go to the smallest plug on the ECU and remove pin 3B from it (Black/Blue wire- bottom right location). Doing so will cut down the amount of fuel injected into the engine by a large degree. Doing this will make starting the car in cold weather somewhat difficult, but since you're in Miami that shouldn't be a problem. To depin the clip you need to use a very small screw driver and stick it into the front part of the plug and depress the clip inside it and at the same time pull on the wire from the back and it should slide out.

If this doesn't work then you could do an ohm test related to the CAS. You would disconnect the plug at the CAS which has four wires (Green,Blue,Red and White). With the meter set to ohms (no key necessary) place one meter lead (doesn't matter which one) to the Green and the other meter lead to the Blue and it should read 110 to 210 ohms if it is within spec. Then switch the meter leads to the Red wire and the White wire and it should read within the same range.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

let me try that then.

any idea what that wire was for that was cut?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you follow the wire on the side of the plug that still remains and it leads to the oil pan ( driver's side) and that single wire is plugged into the side of the oil pan then it is part of the cold start assist component which is not needed in any way shape or form.

After doing the depinning of 3B go through the flooding procedure a time or two and then disconnect both electrical plugs to the trailing coil as only the leading coil is needed to start and run the car. Doing this just helps to narrow down things in an attempt to keep it simple.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

okay will do

gotian

iTrader: (1)

do i go through the flooding procedure with taking the spark plugs out too?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Go through the whole process to put the car in as good a shape as possible to prepare it for the attempted start after the depinning.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

okay