I made a custom true dual system
#1
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I made a custom true dual system
I have been wanting to make a true dual system for my car ever since I got it.
So when a curb jumped up and broke my exhaust during a trackday, I decided that now is the time
I had some flanges plasmacut at work, and bought som regular steel, stainless steel, resonators and gaskets. Then started the fabrication of the system.
Now it is finally done and I must say that this thing kicks *** like you wouldnt believe it.
Regular two inch steel homemade header into two inch Stainless Steel resonators and on to stock mufflers(allmost new). For trackabuse Ill be using two inch SS resonators instead of the stock mufflers, mated to some "diesel style" tips to direct the sound into the ground
Anyways im in love with my car again, now it is quiet and comfortable in city traffic and roars like a beast at wot, did I mention that it has TORQUE now
My setup: All Euro-spec motor, no emissions-working aux.butterflies, ported motor, matchported manifolds, drop-in K&N filter, true duals and "flowed" intake(TB-Elbow-AFM).
Im ready for a dynorun soon
So when a curb jumped up and broke my exhaust during a trackday, I decided that now is the time
I had some flanges plasmacut at work, and bought som regular steel, stainless steel, resonators and gaskets. Then started the fabrication of the system.
Now it is finally done and I must say that this thing kicks *** like you wouldnt believe it.
Regular two inch steel homemade header into two inch Stainless Steel resonators and on to stock mufflers(allmost new). For trackabuse Ill be using two inch SS resonators instead of the stock mufflers, mated to some "diesel style" tips to direct the sound into the ground
Anyways im in love with my car again, now it is quiet and comfortable in city traffic and roars like a beast at wot, did I mention that it has TORQUE now
My setup: All Euro-spec motor, no emissions-working aux.butterflies, ported motor, matchported manifolds, drop-in K&N filter, true duals and "flowed" intake(TB-Elbow-AFM).
Im ready for a dynorun soon
#7
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Thanks
And no I dont think it would be worth it for me to make exhausts and ship them to the US.
<------Denmark
LOL somehow I knew that Santiago was gonna post in this thread
4-5 is normal cruising and im guessing 7 at WOT, 1 being stock system and 13 being full open exhaust.
Hopefully I will post some pictures of the two styles of rearmufflers/raceresonators one of these days.
Stay tuned
And no I dont think it would be worth it for me to make exhausts and ship them to the US.
<------Denmark
LOL somehow I knew that Santiago was gonna post in this thread
4-5 is normal cruising and im guessing 7 at WOT, 1 being stock system and 13 being full open exhaust.
Hopefully I will post some pictures of the two styles of rearmufflers/raceresonators one of these days.
Stay tuned
Last edited by Kim; 09-07-04 at 07:17 PM.
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#16
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yah i believe so. If you just cut right before the collector and the weld 2 same dimensions pipes as the header itself then you would have a true dual system. I was thinking of doing this myself, im not sure the performance gain would be all that much but from kims butt dyno it might just be worth it hehe. My header needs a new flange anyway. late,kevin.
#17
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Ok here goes:
Header is regular steel, cus im worried about the extraction and the uhhmmmm opposite:oops: when the engine warms up and cools down. Im no pro but Im convinced that regular steel is more flexible. You can buy the stuff at well assorted hardware store. Header consists of Plasmacut 10mm steelplate some 2"inch piping a few 90* bends and end flanges. Its real easy to make if you know how to operate a welder, put the flange on the enginestuds align and mark the bends, take it off and spot weld it together, put it back on align the next section and weld, if you weld it on the car remember to disconnect the batteryground or you may fry some circuits.
Header-->back is Stainless Steel 1,5mm thick and 2" diameter, its coupled together with a few bends that I bought as 90* couplers and I cheated a few places and cut the pipes and bend them over my knee Then it goes into some resonators and further on into the stock rearmufflers.
Go on as with the header and align and spotweld it together, if you, as Aesop Rock mentioned, uses a MIG welder on SS it WILL rust faster than you can weld. Use a TIG welder instead its kindda hard to begin with but gets easier as you go.
This project took me a few days to complete, laying on my back underneath the car, getting burnmarks from the welder all over my body.
P.S. When TIG welding make sure to button up your shirt, I got a nice red tan from welding the SS exhausts
Header is regular steel, cus im worried about the extraction and the uhhmmmm opposite:oops: when the engine warms up and cools down. Im no pro but Im convinced that regular steel is more flexible. You can buy the stuff at well assorted hardware store. Header consists of Plasmacut 10mm steelplate some 2"inch piping a few 90* bends and end flanges. Its real easy to make if you know how to operate a welder, put the flange on the enginestuds align and mark the bends, take it off and spot weld it together, put it back on align the next section and weld, if you weld it on the car remember to disconnect the batteryground or you may fry some circuits.
Header-->back is Stainless Steel 1,5mm thick and 2" diameter, its coupled together with a few bends that I bought as 90* couplers and I cheated a few places and cut the pipes and bend them over my knee Then it goes into some resonators and further on into the stock rearmufflers.
Go on as with the header and align and spotweld it together, if you, as Aesop Rock mentioned, uses a MIG welder on SS it WILL rust faster than you can weld. Use a TIG welder instead its kindda hard to begin with but gets easier as you go.
This project took me a few days to complete, laying on my back underneath the car, getting burnmarks from the welder all over my body.
P.S. When TIG welding make sure to button up your shirt, I got a nice red tan from welding the SS exhausts
#18
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The Pacesetter headers seems like an idea worth trying, the good thing about True Duals is that the piping doesnt need to be equal length as the exhaust pulses never meet
#19
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They have a special spool of wire to use on SS steel when you mig weld, turn your currnet on min, and use lower feed. Thanks for the write up, im duing this when my rebuild is over
#23
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Bump for the dynotest.
Too lazy to write it all over again so check this link.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...00#post3500000
Too lazy to write it all over again so check this link.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...00#post3500000
#25
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Video from dynotest and one of my true duals
http://www.wankelkim.net/exhaust.AVI
http://www.wankelkim.net/Dyno.AVI
http://www.wankelkim.net/exhaust.AVI
http://www.wankelkim.net/Dyno.AVI