well i keep blowing the 30a engine fuse under the hood, the one closest to the engine and its red. I have blown 3 of them in a matter of min. Whats going on??

 

PLEASE!!! ANYBODY i just blew 2 more...it will idle for like 30 sec and just die i need to drive my car so i can get to work

 

what fuse is that? for what system?

 

Find the fault first. It is blowing for a reason and simply replacing the fuse will NOT solve the problem. Start with the FSM and trace down that entire cicuit.

 

its the engine comp fuse 30a under the hood.

I checked everything electrical and its fine...i think its my new alarm because before i had it my car never did this.

Could my alarm have a short in it?

 

The ENGINE fuse is in the interior of the car.

The EGI COMP fuse is , well, the EGI COMP fuse. It feeds the BLACK/WHITE wires that are at each solenoid. There are a number of solenoids. It also feeds 12vdc to the ECU. The ECU is NEVER the culprit. Usually it's one of the solenoids or better put the black/white wire and its attachment to the solenoids.

Look at your latest alarm installation and see if you spliced into a BLACK/WHITE wire (fed by the EGI COMP fuse).

 

Do you mean the selenoids for emissions controll?

 

All the solenoids on the rack whether emissions related or not. The RELIEF, PRC, TURBO SWITCHING SOLENOID, EGR, SWITCHING etc plus those two on the ACV called the Port and Split Air solenoids.

The Green, Yellow, Brown, Blue, Grey, White, Orange connectors that go to the solenoids. Color depends on what type RX you have.

 

well i checked the wires and none of them are cut or anything

 

It also feeds the BAC.

It goes from the engine fuse box...to the MAIN RELAY then to the BAC,EGR, SPLIT AIR SOLENOID, PORT AIR SOLENOID,PPCV,PWR STEERING SWITCH, ASV,EGR, TCV,AIR BYPASS SOLENOID, SWITCHING SOLENOID, RELIEF SOLENOID, PRESSURE SENSOR, ATP SENSOR and KNOCK SENSOR and pin 3I on the ECU.

That's series four. Series five is similar. That's about all that can be done online.

Personally I'd disconnect the two electrical plugs on the ACV and see what happens. That's where most of these problems occur.

 

Check the wire harness that runs across the front of the engine by the water pump neck. I had the same problem on my 88 GXL. The heat build up in this area causes the wiring to become brittle, etc., and finally causing a short.

The best way to find it is to use a multimeter. Plug one end into the fuse slot, and connect the other to the metal body, or neg bat terminal. Use the continuity selector on the multimeter, so you here a beep while continuity is made. If you have a short, the meter should be beeping. Now, wiggle around the wire harness until the beeping stops. When you find the general area, remove all tape, etc, and find the broken/bare wire. Resplice, tape well, and all should be good!

Good Luck.

Greg

 

ok i will do that right now, but i dont have that kind of multimeter that makes a beeping noise.

Since i dont will i be able to still tell whats wrong?

 

Well, you could use resistance as well. Hooking up the voltmeter in the same fasion, if you have a short, you should have some sort of reading for resistance (I think, maybe someone could chime in here). Once the short is solved, you should read an infinite number for resistance.

The $10 radioshack voltmeters have a continuity beeper...

Greg

 

You'd have to remove the proper plug from the Main Relay. You can't read from the EGI COMP fuse because......the Main Relay ain't pulled in.

Then you'd be reading thru several coils in the solenoids to ground. I don't think that is going to work. Unless you remove each and every plug that the BLACK/WHITE wire feeds.

I'll take some of that back. MAYBE if you disconnect all three plugs from the ECU it MIGHT work. All three plugs from the ECU and all the other plugs, then you could do it. MAYBE. IF you ohm'd it from the MainRelay plug.

 

Smoke check it!

 

Right out of the SWAPTRONICS T.O. Hold the circuit breaker in until the source of smoke is identified. R square the smoking discrepant part.

 

Amen Brother!

 

ok i'll try this tommorow

 

your battery is hooked up backwards

 

Here is where J-RAT meant to write back that the last few posts were in jest and not to be taken seriously. Those methods are only to be used on aircraft that are not flown over densly populated areas or by a military with very deep pockets that can afford to remove and replace mulitmillion dollar MMC's and the like. The QARS usually say the cause was due to static electricity..........but they're starting to get a little suspicious what with the blow torch looking holes in the internal boards.

 

yea i had a feeling. LOL

I cant figure it out i have tried all last night.

I guess i could call mazda and ask them?

 

What happens when you remove all the plugs off the solenoids? I mean the Blue, yellow, grey, green, orange and whatever color I forgot to mention PLUS go to the ACV and follow the harness from the two solenoids that attache to it to their plugs and disconnect them also.

With all those plugs disconnected, does the fuse blow?

You might call MAZDA if you have that kind of money to throw at it and don't have time to mess with it.

Disconnect all those plugs and then start the car and see if the fuse blows.

 

are u talking about the ones under the hood?

 

All but one is under the hood. I've no idea what year car you have. Turbo? Non Turbo? Series four? Series Five?

The Main Relay is also under the hood. YOu have to access it. It's near the Trail coil assy. It has two plugs going to it.

No that's not right. You also would have to access the ECU and pull the three plugs off it. IF you don't pull these plugs off, then when you go to ohm out the black/white wire at the Main Relay, you'll end up reading resistance thru the ECU itself. The ECU is under the rug on the passengers side of the car. Rug up. Then there's a metal plate. Remove plate. ECU is there with three electrical plugs. Press the release tab and pull all three off.

There's a free download of the factory service manual and the url is found in the FAQ thread. Download only the fuel sections.

 

Ah! I looked. You've a 86. That's ok. I've got one of those also to supplement the two 87 turbos. Just for kicks I might go pull off these plugs and read what the resistance is with then removed. The 86 non turbo should make life easier. Fewer plugs.