i have until friday or the car is gone.
04-07-03, 02:38 AM
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i have until friday or the car is gone.
well my mother gave me a deadline on figuring out what was wrong with it and Mazda and a mechanic couldn't tell me so mabye ill try one more time with you guys. I have until friday or the car is gone. im hoping with the little things i can tell you (im no ace at cars) you might be able to give me an answer. here i go for the millionth time asking for help to fix the same fcking problem that Mazda and the mechanic should have found.
-shakes (sometimes a little sometiems alot)
-small puffs of black smoke from exhaust
-if im driving as it happens nomatter how fast im going i de-celerate (even if i floor the pedal)
-if the car is in neutral while this is going on and i try to rev it a little it shakes more and the dash lights dim when im at about 3k rpm
-i let the car sit for awhile after i first got it (b/c this happend) then i drove it again recently and it was fine for a few weeks and now its happening again. it made a 1 and a 1/2 hour trip the other day and nothing was wrong. then i tried to go on the highway the next day and it happend.
-after it stops shaking the gas pedal is alot more sensitive and the engine seems like it has alot more power too it.
-smell gas
if you need/want to know anything else just pm/aim me.
thanks
don
edit: also my split air line recently fell off. but it hasnt affected anything diffrent in the driving of the car at ALL. This happend the other day pulling out of my driveway.
sorry for the typos its 3:40am
-shakes (sometimes a little sometiems alot)
-small puffs of black smoke from exhaust
-if im driving as it happens nomatter how fast im going i de-celerate (even if i floor the pedal)
-if the car is in neutral while this is going on and i try to rev it a little it shakes more and the dash lights dim when im at about 3k rpm
-i let the car sit for awhile after i first got it (b/c this happend) then i drove it again recently and it was fine for a few weeks and now its happening again. it made a 1 and a 1/2 hour trip the other day and nothing was wrong. then i tried to go on the highway the next day and it happend.
-after it stops shaking the gas pedal is alot more sensitive and the engine seems like it has alot more power too it.
-smell gas
if you need/want to know anything else just pm/aim me.
thanks
don
edit: also my split air line recently fell off. but it hasnt affected anything diffrent in the driving of the car at ALL. This happend the other day pulling out of my driveway.
sorry for the typos its 3:40am
Last edited by do0nie; 04-07-03 at 02:40 AM.
04-07-03, 02:57 AM
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im no ace at cars/rx7's but ill search on it and see what i can come up with. what am i supposed to get on a compression check. like i said im not genious when it comes to cars. my abilitys are very limited ive only done very very small stuff. i am very willing to learn though.
04-07-03, 03:01 AM
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I don’t want to put over the impression my mother is a bitch or anything, she’s not. She has been very patient with me and this whole car situation. It is just that we work in opposite directions on completely different schedules. It is a necessity for me to have a car and she is just pushing me to do something.
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04-07-03, 03:13 AM
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.
Recheck all your spark plugs. Remove the plugs and check them.
Check the Spark plug wires. Make sure they are on good and tight. Make sure trailing and leading plugs and wires are wired correctly.
Check your oil.
Check your fuel filter.
Check your alternator and alternator belt for tightness.
Start your car. With the car running remove the positive cable of your battery. Does it still run? This isn't too safe for the car ECU but you this seems like you need to test all you can b4 you lose the car any way.
If your car dies follow the + wire from the ALT to the battery. Did the fusable link pop or test the wire to see if power is being delivered to the battery for charge.
Test your battery.
Test your TPS. (use the search fuction above)
Check your grounds. Hook up a vacume gauge and see if your vacume is steady. ($15 @ a parts store)
If you not too mechanically inclined this the perfect learning car. Cause soo much can F-up but when it runs good its a sweet feeling.
If your not ready for all this get another import but not a 7.
Check the Spark plug wires. Make sure they are on good and tight. Make sure trailing and leading plugs and wires are wired correctly.
Check your oil.
Check your fuel filter.
Check your alternator and alternator belt for tightness.
Start your car. With the car running remove the positive cable of your battery. Does it still run? This isn't too safe for the car ECU but you this seems like you need to test all you can b4 you lose the car any way.
If your car dies follow the + wire from the ALT to the battery. Did the fusable link pop or test the wire to see if power is being delivered to the battery for charge.
Test your battery.
Test your TPS. (use the search fuction above)
Check your grounds. Hook up a vacume gauge and see if your vacume is steady. ($15 @ a parts store)
If you not too mechanically inclined this the perfect learning car. Cause soo much can F-up but when it runs good its a sweet feeling.
If your not ready for all this get another import but not a 7.
04-07-03, 03:18 AM
#9
Dont listen to these guys when they say "do the ATF trick". Do a search for ATF TRICK and you will find LOTS of pages on it.
Do a compression test on the engine. This should tell you the condition of it. Did Mazda do a compression test on it? If not, theyre retarded.
Download the Factory Service Manual from www.fc3s.org (if you dont have a service manual already). I dont know the compression numbers off the top of my head but theyre all in the manual along with a troubleshooting guide.
Do a compression test on the engine. This should tell you the condition of it. Did Mazda do a compression test on it? If not, theyre retarded.
Download the Factory Service Manual from www.fc3s.org (if you dont have a service manual already). I dont know the compression numbers off the top of my head but theyre all in the manual along with a troubleshooting guide.
04-07-03, 09:09 AM
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Definitely check your gounds and add your own extra ones. Do a search on here and you should find plenty of info.
Also, you said the split air tube fell off. Does that mean the part that goes to your cat? Do you still have a cat on there? If so, maybe its clogged up. I'd gut them if you have them.
Sounds kind of like an electrical problem the way it comes and goes.
Also, you said the split air tube fell off. Does that mean the part that goes to your cat? Do you still have a cat on there? If so, maybe its clogged up. I'd gut them if you have them.
Sounds kind of like an electrical problem the way it comes and goes.
04-07-03, 10:05 AM
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Originally posted by Amur_
I got a little happy with ground wires on my NA FC, both help my alternator and to chase the 3800 stumble (which I finally did eliminate.)
Using 6-gauge automotive wire (make sure it's the multi-strand automotive wire - don't use anything else - and don't use anything smaller than 10 gauge) I installed a ground wire:
1) from the negative battery terminal to the chasis (the outer bolt holding the master fuse block in place on front of the strut tower.)
2) from the alternator's tension adjusting bolt to the battery's negative terminal.
3) to replace the ground wire on the backside of the engine (running from the tranny housing to a nut up by the wiper motor.)
4) on the ECU harness in the passenger footwell. But this was a 3800 stumble fix and may not be for you. I don't have the desc. in front of me but a write-up does appear in a few FAQs out there... Also added a ground at the air boost sensor for the 3800 fix (which was what finally nixed it.)
5) to replace the main engine ground (from behind the plugs/under the oil filter to the chassis.)
6) from the y-pipe (where your exhaust splits to go out to your mufflers) to the chassis. There's supposed to be a factory ground there, but 15 years on the road tends to nuke them.
I've read mention of people who suggest adding a wire from the alternator output to the battery's positive terminal to parallel the stock wire and make the alternator's job easier. I've asked around about this, and the general consensus was that doing this is a gamble. You risk cooking some/all of your RX-7's electrical packages/components. I've decided to not do it until I'm convinced otherwise...
You might consider adding grounding straps to the back of your car, too. I haven't, but that's because I'm willing to forgoe whatever the benefit is rather than sport attachments that I think look retarded. I don't have tassels on my coat and I'll be damned if I'll have any on my rotary rocket.
Make sure that all your connections are clean. Scrape away paint and remove any dirt or oil. Use an external tooth washer between each connector and the surface, if you can. And tighten the hell out of it. Use a spray-on enamel or good-sized dollop of di-electric grease on all the ground points to inihibit corrosion (if they start to rust they won't be as effective - my boost-sensor ground started to corrode not long after I put it in - I first noticed it when the stubmle started re-appearing! I cleaned it up and nailed it with di-electric grease and she's been fine ever since.)
I got a little happy with ground wires on my NA FC, both help my alternator and to chase the 3800 stumble (which I finally did eliminate.)
Using 6-gauge automotive wire (make sure it's the multi-strand automotive wire - don't use anything else - and don't use anything smaller than 10 gauge) I installed a ground wire:
1) from the negative battery terminal to the chasis (the outer bolt holding the master fuse block in place on front of the strut tower.)
2) from the alternator's tension adjusting bolt to the battery's negative terminal.
3) to replace the ground wire on the backside of the engine (running from the tranny housing to a nut up by the wiper motor.)
4) on the ECU harness in the passenger footwell. But this was a 3800 stumble fix and may not be for you. I don't have the desc. in front of me but a write-up does appear in a few FAQs out there... Also added a ground at the air boost sensor for the 3800 fix (which was what finally nixed it.)
5) to replace the main engine ground (from behind the plugs/under the oil filter to the chassis.)
6) from the y-pipe (where your exhaust splits to go out to your mufflers) to the chassis. There's supposed to be a factory ground there, but 15 years on the road tends to nuke them.
I've read mention of people who suggest adding a wire from the alternator output to the battery's positive terminal to parallel the stock wire and make the alternator's job easier. I've asked around about this, and the general consensus was that doing this is a gamble. You risk cooking some/all of your RX-7's electrical packages/components. I've decided to not do it until I'm convinced otherwise...
You might consider adding grounding straps to the back of your car, too. I haven't, but that's because I'm willing to forgoe whatever the benefit is rather than sport attachments that I think look retarded. I don't have tassels on my coat and I'll be damned if I'll have any on my rotary rocket.
Make sure that all your connections are clean. Scrape away paint and remove any dirt or oil. Use an external tooth washer between each connector and the surface, if you can. And tighten the hell out of it. Use a spray-on enamel or good-sized dollop of di-electric grease on all the ground points to inihibit corrosion (if they start to rust they won't be as effective - my boost-sensor ground started to corrode not long after I put it in - I first noticed it when the stubmle started re-appearing! I cleaned it up and nailed it with di-electric grease and she's been fine ever since.)
04-07-03, 08:34 PM
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Intermittent problems are almost always electrical. Some of these guys have great ideas. If you want to get rid of the car cheap let me know, but don't give up without a fight. These are great cars.
04-07-03, 09:17 PM
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Hey, it sounds like either a spark issue, but i think it maybe a vaccum issue, check and make sure all your vaccum lines are not cracked or broken, do a vaccum pressure check
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