I have no accelerated warm up...
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I have no accelerated warm up...
What causes it to happen and not to happen. I start my car with it in neutral and sometimes it goes up to about 1500 but then it just bounces from 1000 to 1500 and it keeps this up until it is fully warm and sometimes it keeps doing this.
Other times it doesn't go past 1000 right after start.
Everyonce in a while it starts at 1000 and then about 20 sec later it just dies.
Other times it doesn't go past 1000 right after start.
Everyonce in a while it starts at 1000 and then about 20 sec later it just dies.
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yea same thing happens with my car but on aws it revs to 3000 then goes down to 1000 and when it only revs up to 1500 it quickly goes dangerously low but only once did it turn off
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just noticed mine did the Bouncy Rev Thing in neutral ..I think it has something to do with a thing called a thermo pellet..but I didn't let it warm up the 5-10 minutes like I usually do (tryin to make it habitual..to prevent problems later)..I start it in gear with the clutch in ,and sit there listenin to the stereo for a bit ...let that pellet thing warm up and have it hot enough so the thermostat opens up then drive the car..I can only say that it sounds like the engine was not warmed up ..try starting it in gear and letting it warm up thoroughly(noticed mine will stall if I don't let it warm up "enough")..You know it can't hurt to have the engine achieve operating temp before "rocketing " out of the driveway!!!
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I also heard something about people disabling this mechanism. SO i'm pretty sure I can either see if my mechanism is totally gone or if there is something just wrong with it I believe they called it a cold start mechanism.
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solenoid switch on accelerated warm up system..unplug connector..resistance on the solenoid valve shoud have a reading of 9.3 to 11.3 ohms ..connecta jumper wire between the positive on battery to one of the solenoid terminals..ground the other terminal..you should hear it click ..if not its no good!!..was that what you were lookin for?
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who cares? has this really been proven to be any benefit to the engine. Yea I'm sure if you start it up and go outa the driveway at 7.5k rpm it'd hurt it, but if you just let it sit there for 15 or so seconds, and take it easy for the first 15minutes you'll be just fine.
Oh, cant you just put your foot on the gas to hold it at 3k for 15 seconds...thats all the accelerated warm up is.
Oh, cant you just put your foot on the gas to hold it at 3k for 15 seconds...thats all the accelerated warm up is.
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[QUOTE=theman4444]What causes it to happen and not to happen. I start my car with it in neutral and sometimes it goes up to about 1500 but then it just bounces from 1000 to 1500 and it keeps this up until it is fully warm and sometimes it keeps doing this.
Other times it doesn't go past 1000 right after start.
Everyonce in a while it starts at 1000 and then about 20 sec later it just dies.[/QUOTE
On a series four, the accelerated warmup lasts for approx 17 seconds and the engine revs for that time period to approx 3000 rpm. After 17 seconds the engine should be at a fast idle of approx 1300 (give or take a few)rpm until the thermowax on the throttle body extends due to the water getting warmer, which causes the fast idle cam to fall off its roll pin and the idle to return to approx 750rpm.
The accelerated warm up is dependent on water temperature for those 17 seconds of approx 3000rpm. The clutch pedal being in and the shifter in gear will cancel that 3000rpm part of the warmup.
The up/down at approx 1000-1500 rpm MIGHT be because the tps was set when the engine was cold. Always set the tps when the engine is HOT. And it could be another thing altogether. Theres a free download of the FUEL section available online. It explains fast idle cam/roll pin/thermowax.
Other times it doesn't go past 1000 right after start.
Everyonce in a while it starts at 1000 and then about 20 sec later it just dies.[/QUOTE
On a series four, the accelerated warmup lasts for approx 17 seconds and the engine revs for that time period to approx 3000 rpm. After 17 seconds the engine should be at a fast idle of approx 1300 (give or take a few)rpm until the thermowax on the throttle body extends due to the water getting warmer, which causes the fast idle cam to fall off its roll pin and the idle to return to approx 750rpm.
The accelerated warm up is dependent on water temperature for those 17 seconds of approx 3000rpm. The clutch pedal being in and the shifter in gear will cancel that 3000rpm part of the warmup.
The up/down at approx 1000-1500 rpm MIGHT be because the tps was set when the engine was cold. Always set the tps when the engine is HOT. And it could be another thing altogether. Theres a free download of the FUEL section available online. It explains fast idle cam/roll pin/thermowax.
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Something I did not mention about the 3000rpm for 17 seconds. There is , on a series four, a water temp switch at the bottom of the radiator. IF that sensor senses the water temp is below 59-66*F, then you won't get the 3000rpm for 17seconds.
But if the connector was jumpered at the water temp switch (or the temp is over that figure) and you simulate being over 59-66*F, then it will go to 3000 for 17seconds. There's no real mention of the relationship of THAT water temp switch and the reving to 3000.
The things that are related to the 3000 on start are the water thermo switch, water temp switch on the radiator, air bypass solenoid valve, BAC.
But if the connector was jumpered at the water temp switch (or the temp is over that figure) and you simulate being over 59-66*F, then it will go to 3000 for 17seconds. There's no real mention of the relationship of THAT water temp switch and the reving to 3000.
The things that are related to the 3000 on start are the water thermo switch, water temp switch on the radiator, air bypass solenoid valve, BAC.
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