$100T2

iTrader: (1)

But yesterday, one bolt made me it's bitch.

I was trying to put on my RB turbo back exhaust, and damn if the top right bolt on the catalytic wouldn't come off. I had the entire exhaust up to the front catalytic off in 30 minutes... And then, for the next 4 hours, NO ONE at the hobby shop on base could get the last bolt off. I even offered $20 to the guy who could get it off, all to no avail. So unless you guys have some brilliant ideas how to get it off, it's going to midas on Monday.

I did manage to bolt up the entire exhaust other than the down pipe... It looks sweet! The stainless mufflers are bitchin'. To quote Ferris: "If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up."

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Everyone's been there, trust me. Though now that I have a 4 foot breaker bar, I can remove ANY bolt you want (except that damn front eccentric bolt).

Moral: use a huge breaker bar.

Titan

Did you try a torch? Heating my cat bolts up with a torch got them loose enough to get at with a regular wrench.
Also worked wonders on my rusted and warped rotors.

*retreats into the shadows, as he doesn't drive an rx-7, but a 240*

Pinfield357

either idea should work or you could just combine the two

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

The problem is, the damn thing is distorted... You can't get a socket or wrench onto it. I know that all the stuff on it is original, I think Mazda fucked it up at the factory back in 86 when she was built. We had to breaker bar the other two to get them off, they were a bitch too.

peacekeeper

Get some monsterously strong dude to wrap down on a pair of vice grips on the bold and breaker bar that. If that don't work I got one word for ya......cry.
Peace,
Charles

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

cant get vice grips on it, due to it's location. I'm going to tell Midas to just cut the catalytic off, then the bolt should be easier to get at.

BlackRx7

Haha sounds like my problem, except it happened on fri 13th yeah I prolly shouldn't have been working on her that day, but I broke a boke on my RB presilencer tryiing to get it off with a breaker bar, and striped out a bolt holding the rear sub frame, after 6 hours of looking for the right bolts I finally got it back together, then the tie rod bolts where so rusted I had to get some of those, damn!

BlackRx7

have you tried an impact gun?

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Yep, can't get anything onto it... It's all twisted up.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

you are just a sissy u gotta try harder
screw the breaker bar thats no fun

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

if this is the case the only option now is to heat the bolt until it is red hot and use either a 12 point socket or box end wrench or a pair of vise grips. judging by what you are saying, you are probably gonna have to use a bolt extractor. Snap-on makes this tool specifically for this purpose - fucked up nappy bolts, the guys at midas might actually let you borrow a tool if you tell them whats up, opposed to just taking it in there and having them charge you out the ***(trust me, they will)

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Kahren, tell you what. I am in Groton, CT, you can come over and have at it all you want. I'll offer you the same $20 I offered everyone else. You don't seem to understand, it's not a strength issue, it's a can't get a wrench or socket on it issue. It's supposed to be a 14 mm, but the smallest we could get on it was a 16 mm... but it would strip if we tried to loosen it.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

Is it a 12 or 6 point socket?

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

We were able to get a 12 point 16 mm, a 6 point 5/8, but they were both too loose.

V8RX7com

I was just looking at this tool set the other day this might work for you. ... below is a cut & paste from Sears.com:

Craftsman® Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set

5 PC set fits many popular size (both metric and standard) bolt heads and nuts. Spiral flute design grabs and removes rusted, painted over and rounded off nuts and bolts. Removers can easily be turned using a ratchet/socket or combination wrench. Through-hole design allows removers to fit over longer studs and bolts. The set is made of heat-treated high carbon steel and comes with a handy storage case for just $19.99.

rico05

I used a LOT of Liquid Wrench and actually just kicked the wrench to loosen the nut. WOrked wonders.......

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

That sears kit might do the job... Provided I can get it on the damn thing.

Pinfield357

cant you just cut it off with tourches

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

To be honest, I don't have access to a torch, and if I did, I still wouldn't want to try it... I am not skilled enough with that, and I don't want to jack up my toy.

HAILERS

I'd bet that hobby shop has a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Cut the nut and then split it apart. Or, depending on how much of the old system your keeping, cut the stud off completly.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

I have a Dremel with a carbon fiber cutting disc... That might work, if I can get the damn thing up there. Good idea. I can't cut the stud off completely, because I have to be able to bolt the new down pipe to it, until I can get my stage 3 from BNR.

BlackRx7

damn man your making this way harder than it is, if I recall all the bolts on the exhaust are 17mm stock, if you don't have a torch drive it to a near by muff shop all they'll cut it off for 5 bucks

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Black, they are all 14 mm. The other two were both 14's and came off with a breaker bar. The top one is the bastard. Remember, I am talking about where the catalytic connects to the turbo itself... the main cat was a 17mm, and was no big deal to get rid of.
By the way, I am selling the straight pipe I had in place of the main cat, check the for sale section.

darkwaveboi

use a cut off wheel to cut off the cat/exhaust so u can just get to the bolt.