I got an FC!! but it has a hard time starting...
03-18-08 | 02:03 AM
#26
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
with 80/85, yes it could go at any time. It will also become increasingly hard to start and idle. I would baby it around if I had to continue to drive it.
IF you rebuild it now you can get by with just seals and springs...everything else should be reuseable. If you wait until it breaks, you'll also be on the hook for a replacement rotor and rotor housing, about 3-500 bucks extra.
IF you rebuild it now you can get by with just seals and springs...everything else should be reuseable. If you wait until it breaks, you'll also be on the hook for a replacement rotor and rotor housing, about 3-500 bucks extra.
03-18-08 | 03:47 PM
#28
mazda mario
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 400
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From: port st lucie
From: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html
115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
Any rotary below 95psi is on the threshold of flooding, poor idle, hard starting, slight power loss, MPG loss, etc.
115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
Any rotary below 95psi is on the threshold of flooding, poor idle, hard starting, slight power loss, MPG loss, etc.
03-20-08 | 05:18 PM
#30
it wont start its done for...im getting all depressed...i wont be able to get to work now...im pretty much screwed unless i buy another car...but i dont have the money for that...
03-20-08 | 05:32 PM
#32
ok. the low compression is due to the fact that its an old engine. the apex seals and housings are worn. it happens.
as for the burning oil, its a rotary! they burn oil! the OMP puts oil into the engine to lubricate the apex seals as the engine rotates to keep them from getting dry and breaking. usually on start up some of the older engines will blow out some blue smoke, this is ok, it means the OMP is doing its job.
how many miles does your engine have on it?
as for the burning oil, its a rotary! they burn oil! the OMP puts oil into the engine to lubricate the apex seals as the engine rotates to keep them from getting dry and breaking. usually on start up some of the older engines will blow out some blue smoke, this is ok, it means the OMP is doing its job.
how many miles does your engine have on it?
03-21-08 | 11:07 AM
#36
no! i already explained this a few posts ago! damn people read!
Many rx7's will blow out blue smoke when starting up. this does not mean that they are ready to die!
PLEASE! use the damn search button! thats what its there for, to find **** out!
Many rx7's will blow out blue smoke when starting up. this does not mean that they are ready to die!
PLEASE! use the damn search button! thats what its there for, to find **** out!
03-22-08 | 12:04 PM
#39
well im gonna get a tune up today:
spark plugs
oil change
oil filter change
transmission oil flush
radiator coolant flush
differential fluid flush
brake fluid flush
power steering flush
(supposedly ever fluid)
and i guess there gonna look at my injectors...
spark plugs
oil change
oil filter change
transmission oil flush
radiator coolant flush
differential fluid flush
brake fluid flush
power steering flush
(supposedly ever fluid)
and i guess there gonna look at my injectors...
03-22-08 | 02:07 PM
#40
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
No, no, no. Most of that is useless to your current situation. The only thing that will remotely affect how the engine runs is the plugs. Do the oil change and leave the rest of it alone.
There is nothing they can do by "looking at" your injectors, even if they went so far as to remove them from the engine. Injectors have to be sent out to a cleaning service at a specialized shop to be effective.
None of this is going to change your engine compression. You're about to spend over 100 bucks on work that 1) you could easily do yourself, and 2) work that will not change how your car runs (with exception to the plugs).
I would just do plugs and wires, do it yourself, and put the rest of the money in savings toward the rebuild fund.
There is nothing they can do by "looking at" your injectors, even if they went so far as to remove them from the engine. Injectors have to be sent out to a cleaning service at a specialized shop to be effective.
None of this is going to change your engine compression. You're about to spend over 100 bucks on work that 1) you could easily do yourself, and 2) work that will not change how your car runs (with exception to the plugs).
I would just do plugs and wires, do it yourself, and put the rest of the money in savings toward the rebuild fund.
03-22-08 | 02:44 PM
#41
No, no, no. Most of that is useless to your current situation. The only thing that will remotely affect how the engine runs is the plugs. Do the oil change and leave the rest of it alone.
There is nothing they can do by "looking at" your injectors, even if they went so far as to remove them from the engine. Injectors have to be sent out to a cleaning service at a specialized shop to be effective.
None of this is going to change your engine compression. You're about to spend over 100 bucks on work that 1) you could easily do yourself, and 2) work that will not change how your car runs (with exception to the plugs).
I would just do plugs and wires, do it yourself, and put the rest of the money in savings toward the rebuild fund.
There is nothing they can do by "looking at" your injectors, even if they went so far as to remove them from the engine. Injectors have to be sent out to a cleaning service at a specialized shop to be effective.
None of this is going to change your engine compression. You're about to spend over 100 bucks on work that 1) you could easily do yourself, and 2) work that will not change how your car runs (with exception to the plugs).
I would just do plugs and wires, do it yourself, and put the rest of the money in savings toward the rebuild fund.
but yes, do as he says! he knows his ****!
but also you should at least check the injectors to see if they should be cleaned. i have heard of them giving people much trouble before.
03-22-08 | 03:37 PM
#43
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So wait...you're PAYING SOMEONE to do a 10 minute job of changing shifter bushings?
Man, no offense, but the more of your posts that I read, the more I am convinced this is NOT the car for you to own. If you can't do simple maintenance and part replacement yourself, trying to sort through a tired old car like this will cost you THOUSANDS in labor and parts. You pretty much HAVE to learn to work on cars yourself if you are to own one of these, unless you are rich enough to pay all the labor.
Man, no offense, but the more of your posts that I read, the more I am convinced this is NOT the car for you to own. If you can't do simple maintenance and part replacement yourself, trying to sort through a tired old car like this will cost you THOUSANDS in labor and parts. You pretty much HAVE to learn to work on cars yourself if you are to own one of these, unless you are rich enough to pay all the labor.
03-22-08 | 04:14 PM
#44
damien71
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 10
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From: Oklahoma City Ok.
Guys I am brand new today. I am unsure of how to use this forum. A friend of mine gave me a 1987 RX7 non turbo. Automatic . It was not running when I got it. Put in new fuel pump ,drained out bad gas, put in new battery, bought some decent tires. It started without much troubel although I don't think it has been on the road in perhaps 9 years. At first it ran poorly but after a while it ran just fine.
My problem is this. It will start to overheat after it I drive it 10 miles or so. I have put more coolant in it also a new radiater cap. The coolant moves through the engine. What should be my next step?
damien71
My problem is this. It will start to overheat after it I drive it 10 miles or so. I have put more coolant in it also a new radiater cap. The coolant moves through the engine. What should be my next step?
damien71
03-22-08 | 04:15 PM
#45
So wait...you're PAYING SOMEONE to do a 10 minute job of changing shifter bushings?
Man, no offense, but the more of your posts that I read, the more I am convinced this is NOT the car for you to own. If you can't do simple maintenance and part replacement yourself, trying to sort through a tired old car like this will cost you THOUSANDS in labor and parts. You pretty much HAVE to learn to work on cars yourself if you are to own one of these, unless you are rich enough to pay all the labor.
Man, no offense, but the more of your posts that I read, the more I am convinced this is NOT the car for you to own. If you can't do simple maintenance and part replacement yourself, trying to sort through a tired old car like this will cost you THOUSANDS in labor and parts. You pretty much HAVE to learn to work on cars yourself if you are to own one of these, unless you are rich enough to pay all the labor.
03-22-08 | 04:40 PM
#46
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Guys I am brand new today. I am unsure of how to use this forum. A friend of mine gave me a 1987 RX7 non turbo. Automatic . It was not running when I got it. Put in new fuel pump ,drained out bad gas, put in new battery, bought some decent tires. It started without much troubel although I don't think it has been on the road in perhaps 9 years. At first it ran poorly but after a while it ran just fine.
My problem is this. It will start to overheat after it I drive it 10 miles or so. I have put more coolant in it also a new radiater cap. The coolant moves through the engine. What should be my next step?
damien71
My problem is this. It will start to overheat after it I drive it 10 miles or so. I have put more coolant in it also a new radiater cap. The coolant moves through the engine. What should be my next step?
damien71
Then refill the coolant and go through the process of burping/bleeding the cooling system to get the air bubbles out, not forgetting to turn the heat on full when you are letting it run to flush out air bubbles from the heater core. This process sometimes takes a day or 2. If it continues to lose coolant, then you almost certainly have an internal failure of the coolant seals, which would require an engine rebuild. Symptoms of this are higher than normal pressure in the hoses, overflow bottle filling up, unexplainable loss of coolant, tendency to run hot (higher than half on the gauge), and sometimes even steam on cold startup (burning off of coolant).
03-22-08 | 06:45 PM
#47
i guess your right, this car isn't for me, as soon as i get it running im putting it up for sale... get my money back at least and find my self a more reliable car...i love this car tho...
03-22-08 | 11:51 PM
#48
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Well, this car, or even similar "old fixer uppers" are really suitable only for mechanics and mechanically inclined individuals, usually with a few hundred or thousand on the side to play with and make the car into what it should be. This is not a car that you just buy, drive away in, turn the key and put gas and oil into. When you drive one home, you should figure on putting 2 or 3 grand into it within the first 6 months, and more as time goes on and you fix more issues.
Good luck with it in the meantime. Hopefully somebody gets ahold of it that can bring it back and make it closer to right, and not some dorifto kid that will kill it for good.
Good luck with it in the meantime. Hopefully somebody gets ahold of it that can bring it back and make it closer to right, and not some dorifto kid that will kill it for good.
03-24-08 | 12:42 AM
#49
this made up my mind.... i realized what im gonna go to school for...im gonna study for mechanic...im done struggling with gay *** mechanics and if i know how to work on it i can keep it and make it a good car as for now i will probably park it and get another car...
03-24-08 | 01:18 AM
#50
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IF you want to do it for a living, then that is one thing...you need the formal schooling. If you just want to do it for your own benefit and that of family and such, then the best thing you can do is to spend time taking cars apart and putting them back together yourself or with friends who know more and can teach you some things. Read through the appropriate manuals and forum technical information and just keep plugging away.
When I was 19 I knew nothing about cars or engines other than how to change oil and sparkplugs. My dad knew a lot about cars but never taught me any of it at all. When the engine in my s-10 blew up, he brought me a $200 tool set (since I basically had no real tools) and gave me a classified ad for a cheap used replacement engine and told me to get it running.
I had to call him and a couple of friends a couple of times for advice during the job, but I was basically able to get it done myself, and then I went from there on other platforms and jobs. By the time I got into 7s, I had done a couple of engine swaps (straight replacement), a few clutch jobs, and an auto to manual conversion.
One of the best ways to learn about cars is to take them apart. Get a part time job at a junkyard dismantling cars and you will get smart QUICK...even though I did not go this route.
When I was 19 I knew nothing about cars or engines other than how to change oil and sparkplugs. My dad knew a lot about cars but never taught me any of it at all. When the engine in my s-10 blew up, he brought me a $200 tool set (since I basically had no real tools) and gave me a classified ad for a cheap used replacement engine and told me to get it running.
I had to call him and a couple of friends a couple of times for advice during the job, but I was basically able to get it done myself, and then I went from there on other platforms and jobs. By the time I got into 7s, I had done a couple of engine swaps (straight replacement), a few clutch jobs, and an auto to manual conversion.
One of the best ways to learn about cars is to take them apart. Get a part time job at a junkyard dismantling cars and you will get smart QUICK...even though I did not go this route.