JAPSPECGTUs

Okay let me get you all up to speed.

My car had a fine working clutch, motor blows. Car sit's for 17 months. I sit in my car and the first thing I noticed is that the clutch is frozen, the pedal goes down only 35% and doesn't come up. I think nothing of it because the car <i>has</i> been sitting for a long time. So I tow the car up to my house, replace the engine(which comes with it's own working clutch. I greased up the input shaft, spun the the throwout bearing, all is well. Bolt up the motor, tranny. Clutch pedal still frozen. I replace the slave cylinder, noticed the old one was rusted up. Bleed the clutch, nothing! I rebuild the master slave cylinder last night. Today after installing it I had to adjust the clutch pedal with the 10mm locknut. I bleed the clutch, NOTHING! Clutch pedal is dead on the floor.

Now the part that pisses me off. I can't even get any fluid to pass from the master to the slave. I filled it up with CLEAN fluid. I begin the bleeding process from the FSM. A little bit of fluid gets sucked in, then I notice my nice clean fluid instantly turns greyish black. I probably passed about half-way betweent the min and max lines. I fill it up, start to bleed again and now the bitch won't even pump fluid through. I'm so pissed. All the parts of the hydraulic system are either new or rebuilt.
NEW Slave
SS Clutch Line with 2900 miles on it.
Rebuilt Master Cylinder.

WTF? There aren't ANY visible leaks. The only thing I can think of is that the piston in the master is not doing it's job. Even though it was rebuilt by myself with relative ease.

ANY suggestions?

I'm about to say **** this car and sell it. I was supposed to move a week ago to Los Angeles, my lease has already begun and I'm not there.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

You can drive it with no clutch, its just hard. Sounds like you just havent gotten it to bleed yet. What I do is open the fitting on the slave JUST BARELY, and start pumping the clutch. It takes a LONG time to get pressure to start moving, but it will happen.

JAPSPECGTUs

I'd rather not ruin the tranny AND the clutch :-P. I'll try your bleeding method. Just keep pumping for a while eh?

JAPSPECGTUs

I pumped it over 300 times.

Nothing.

If I can't fix it by the end of the day tomorrow. I'm putting it up for sale. I've had this car for four years and have only put 11,000 miles on it and this is the 3rd engine.

JAPSPECGTUs

Update:

Slave Doesn't Move.

Is it possible I could have incorrectly placed the piston in the master, not backwards, because I didn't do that. But could it be stuck?

spot_skater

Is the piston in the slave cyl working?

JAPSPECGTUs

Yes, the slave is BRAND new. See before I rebuilt the master the old master would move the slave, but the pedal would go down all the way, but would only return about 40%. And it would NOT go into gear when running.

slyguy69247

well its a real pain in the *** to bleed the cluch by your self the best way it to get a small tube and put it onto the bleader valve and open the bleader and stick the tube into a bottle brake fluid and pump your hart out it will take a long time....see if that helps if u need more detales let me know......and if u have 2 people do the open the bleader and push and hold the pedle........ close the bleader and then let the pedle up...over and over till no more air

JAPSPECGTUs

No, I've done that. I'm telling you pumped the damn thing probably 500 times today using the FSM method, JRats, and the one you explain above.

It's over. I'm selling this damn car, ******* Logicon just **** on me too!


So tomorrow I am gonna clean it out, wash it, wax it, take shots of it and put it on the board.

Mx6-Rx7 Addict

sounds to me as if you incorrectly rebuilt the master cylinder. they are pretty cheap on ebay. i'd just buy a replacement. i wouldn't sell the car over one component not functioning right. it's your car and your call, but i'd start off with it first. you won't sell your car for near as much with a clutch not functioning right.



good luck

justin

JAPSPECGTUs

I doubt I rebuilt it wrong I went by these instructions to a T https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/clutch-master-slave-cylinder-%2Awriteup%2A-532869/ and took my time.

It's not just the clutch either.
I'm just sick of working on this car. I've spent two weeks under and over it in the 90 degree 100% humidity weather of MO(the last couple of days have been nice though mind you). The last 3 days something news has broken on the car.
Sunroof is stuck cracked open from yesterday dead motor, ASC brand(which is defunct) installed, no way to manually lower it.
The oil pressure sending unit snapped off at the block. And there is an oil leak at the oil pan.
And today the logicon stopped working.
All minor things really except that I do not have any time to fix them.

I've spent over 12,000 on this car since I've had it(August of 02) and I've driven it less than 11,000 miles. And this is the 2nd time I've dropped an engine in it. Sometimes you just have to quit. I HAVE to be in Los Angeles ASAP(i have a lease there and I'm not) so I cannot afford any more time to work on it, thus forcing me to sell it.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Dude... HAVE YOU BLED YOUR MASTER CYLINDER?

Crack the line directly on top of the master-cylinder and BLEED IT FROM THERE. You need to do this because you had the master-cylinder completely dry when you rebuilt it. After you've done this, start bleeding it from the slave-cylinder like you normally would.

Trust me. I just went through this BS when trying to bleed my brakes. Luckily I had someone ask me the key question: "Did you run the resevoir completely dry"? And when I said YES, I was told I needed to bleed each brake-line seperately AT THE MASTER-CYLINDER. My point is, the same holds true with the clutch master-cylinder.

Also, pay some little kid $5 to sit in your car for 5 minutes and push the pedal down when you tell him to... Seriously.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I am TELLING YOU!! It takes a LONG time to get that fluid moving!!! Dont give up!

JAPSPECGTUs

I haven't bled the master like that. I will give it a go. If that doesn't work I'll take the master out and give it a thorough looking over.

After relaxing for a bit, drinking a few beers I feel a little better. I ****** love my FC, it was my first car. I can't just sell Sasha for such trivial reasons. When I sold my T04'd FC(nikita) I felt bad, but I felt good that I still had my black GTUs waiting for me to look after. It's in my blood.

Onward!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

There are a few ways to do this.

1) standard bleed procedure. Fill master with fluid. Loosen valve on slave. SLide a clear aquarium hose over the valve so it fits tight, and route it to a small bottle of fluid. Pump pedal until no air is in the clear line, lock the valve.

IF this doesnt work...

2) get a mityvac from the auto parts store. Attatch it to the bleed valve and pull the fluid through until air is eliminated.

IF this doesnt work...

3) assuming you have an air compressor and a regulator...get a spare master cylinder cap. drill a hole, and install an air fiting. Install the cap on the master. Attatch your regulator to your air hose, and turn it all the way off. Hook the regulated air hose up to the fitting on the cap. Hook up your clear hose and bottle from above, to the loosened bleed fitting. SLOWLY apply air pressure to the cap fitting, to force the fluid through. You may need to hold your finger over the hole in the side of the cap. Once the clear hose fills with fluid, lock the valve.

Using these methods in order, you WILL bleed the system.

If there is a problem with the actual hardware inside the trans, a fully bled system might not make it work.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Nice tips, I may have to do this very soon.

JAPSPECGTUs

Update:

I wasn't trusting my master cylinder so I took it out and manually bled it. What I did was fill the resevior, took a small flat head and pushed the piston releasing fluid, then I would place my thumb over the whole and the piston would slide back, and repeat.
Is the master supposed to suck when the piston slides back, naturally it should right? I did this until I got nothing but clean fluid. Then I reinstalled it and still it will not push fluid through the slave. Ugh, what could it be? A leak? Somewhere between the hardline of the master and the slave? I guess I could disconnect the clutch line at the hardline and see if it pushed fluid through that, if it does then move on to the next connection and check it off.

I'm just...like DAMN.

JAPSPECGTUs

Oh and if I cannot get it bled, it MIGHT be the tranny. So if all else fails I'll take it to a transmission specialist. Thankfully my mother feels sorry for me and told me she'd pay for it versus me selling the car with a broken clutch.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

So...have you done any of what I suggested?

JAPSPECGTUs

A minivac, you can get those at autozone or advance?

There's a Napa nearby too, but its closed today.

JAPSPECGTUs

Damnit.

I bled it from the master and made some progress. Then I started to bleed from the slave, was making good progress. The pedal started to tighten up pretty good and then it just out of no where got real loose again. I'm taking it somewhere tomorrow, I'm just tired of bleeding, I've bled it probably two dozen times in the last week, going through more than 4 bottles of brake fluid to no avail, something is up and I just can't figure it out.

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Something that I haven't seen suggested.
Is the line between the master and slave cylinder block?
I know you said it was relatively new but........

ra ra rotory

holy crap, take it to bucky's, they will either bleed it right, or tell you whats wrong with it for like 40 bucks... and youl have your car back.

86redrx7

yeah i would suggest checking the line because i know the ss line have some residue that comes loose once its filled with fluid and it tends to clog up. i know this because a close friend of mine that has a throttle injected 7 and after about $300 invested in programers and s*#t come to find out its clogged lines.