GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I crushed my heater core inlet and outlet tube a little a while ago when overtightening the clamps. The hose leaks because it does not get a good seal. I'm wondering if anyone has any good ideas?

I am planning on trying to push the indented pipe out with a round steel stock to get it back round as possible and put silicone around the hose before I install it.

When I looked at the heater core inlet and outlet, it looked like brass. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm thinking about brazing on new pipes without even cutting existing ones, and just chopping a little off the heater hose.

The local parts place wants over $120 for one. For a while I bypassed my heater core, but I think it would be better to keep it, especially since I can use it in case my water temps go high

Claytons91

un crush it lol

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yeah the stock heater pipes are really soft. your way of putting something in there works pretty well, you can almost use your fingers, so i don't know about steel, but small potatoes.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Maybe find a steel tube that's slightly smaller in diameter than the inlet/outlet, cut it and insert into the copper pipe. Then when you tighten the clamp it cant crush the copper pipe. You dont want the steel tube to be thick or it will possibly affect the flow of the coolant.

Just an idea, don't hold me responsible for any damage done!

Claytons91

or use a large bolt.

wvumtnbkr

I had this problem once. I used the end of a funnel to make it round again by sticking it inside the tube.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

great suggestions! I'll try to pop it back out with a round steel stock that barely fits the id. I might have to do it in steps.

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

What the hell is wrong with the world today, i googled how to uncrush a pipe and got a tutorial on how to crush your nuts... The hell is wrong with people...

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

lol

rx-4

iTrader: (8)

I used a steel rod and ground it to a cone shape and a propane torch, I heated the pipe and rolled the rod while in the inlet till I got a nicely shaped inlet again. Probably wouldn't need to heat it but it worked nice and hasn't leaked since

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Been there, done that. Use a socket of the appropriate diameter to uncrush it by working from the interior. It's very soft copper.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I'm almost thinking about brazing on a thin steal tube after I get it back round

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

You're in CA... two words for you: HEATER DELETE.

Just kidding. All of the above suggestions are great - my 0.02: take your time when doing whatever method you do and it will probably come out fine.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I did have it deleted before, but I think it would be nice to have. Plus I can turn it on if my water temps go up

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Now I don't know the laws in CA, but almost everywhere requires a functional defroster, no? Without a heater, it's going to be pretty hard to to defrost/defog.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

we have an emissions inspection with a visual, but nothing else. so there is no safety test, or anything.

i've been meaning to take pics, but the best example is either the wrecked protégé my friend had (no front end sheet metal, frame damage, no trouble registering that), or the nissan leaf with no doors.

so while the defroster is very nice its not needed to be street legal here.