If they're all the same, which one should I get (fuel tuning)?

Electrical problems on a Turbo swap, why do it then?

 

not all engine management systems are the same. some work better than others and some have more control than others.

piggy back systems - engine management systems that alter the signals going to the factory computer to create desired results, usually do not have as much capability to modify settings. works well with mild modifications such as an exhaust and intake.

standalone systems - engine management system that replaces the factory computer. very capable systems able to change almost any aspect of how the engine systems run.

there is a major price difference between various types of engine management systems. judging from what modifications you have, an SAFC or similar system would be appropriate being that you don't have any major modifications and would only need minimal adjustments in your fuel trim.

how do you use your car? daily driver? occasional track day? do you feel you need more power or do you like taking the twisty's harder?
consider these things to determine what kind of further modifications you want to do.

back to your question about the shocks. you can do a bounce test to check the condition of your shocks. go to each corner of the car and push down on it as hard as you can - essentially "bouncing" the car. allow the car to return back to its normal ride height. count the number of times the car goes up and down. it should just go up above normal ride height and back down to normal ride height and stop. if it continues to bounce, then your shocks are blown.

 

wow, thanks for the info. SAFC it is then, thanks so much!

My car is a daily driver, I need more horsepower/torque, at least that's what I think.

I'll try that bounce test, thanks!

 

hahaha god i dont miss california!! Im going to be doing a full exhaust with no cats and nobodies gonna bother me in the great state of nv! B]

 

With $500-1000 to play with, I'd see if the suspension needs any help (I don't understand why people invariably assume that the car has stock shocks still on it...chances are excellent they've already been replaced at some point), the tires are good and the brakes work well.

Spend what's left on gas and drive the **** out of it.

New NA owners always complain about needing more power (I know I did) but the fact is you just need to learn to drive it on it's own terms.
The rotary is like a two stroke bike...gutless until you hit the powerband, which is much higher than you're probably used to.
When most cars are running out of breath, the rotary is just waking up and it takes a while to get used to it.

Also, just like a two stroke, your whole technique has to change- you have no torque, so you're rewarded by not giving up speed- hence the concentration on suspension, brakes and tires, all of which help to maintain the speed you've so arduously built up.

If however, you decide that you can't live without torque, don't screw around...slam a V-8 in it.
You want off the line grunt, that'll do it.

 

Invest that money in tools. Alot of fancy ones.

That way you can make all the **** you want to make power.

 

I was very surprised of the difference a SAFC and professional tuning made to the daily driving performance of my N/A AutoVert.

That and something simple like a drop in K&N air filter to help the engine breath easier in conjunction with a exhaust upgrade such as Racing Beats. If your running a stock engine, you'll get very little improvement with headers. But a RB Downpipe and presilencer is very much worth the investment and work very well with stock Y pipe and exhaust cans. And finally, an NA engine is always happiest when you keep your tack needle in the middle 1/3 range of your tachometer.