I'm looking at a 87 TII.
It needs hydraulic (clutch) fluid, cause its low now..
What kind of hydraulic fluid should I get?
Specific types and brands please

Also, what do you guys reccomend for oil? (The temp outside wont go over 90 in the next few weeks, but it will dip into the high 80s, so I want to make sure I have good protection)

I'm going for max. mpg, not highest performance.


Also--After I do my emissions testing(100% stock car), if I get the cats gutted, will it reduce enough backpressure to increase boost?
I don't want to worry about AF mixtures or limp-mode overboost problems with the computer, for now. No $

 

Brake fluid

 

Castrol GTX?

 

Any DOT3 brake fluid. Some may say that DOT4 is a superior fluid and that is true when it comes out of the bottle. But brake fluid is rated for wet and dry boiling points. Most 3 and 4 fluids have a very close wet point BUT 3 absorbs moisture less easily than 4. The boiling point for either are lower than a clutch slave cylinder will ever see anyway. Personally, for just the clutch, I'd use the cheapest DOT3 I could find.

Don't just add it either. While you're at it go ahead and bleed the system. Look at the resevoir where the fluid goes. There is a hose attached that runs down toward the transmission and to the slave cylinder. On the slave cylinder is a nipple with a hex head on it. Attach 12" rubber tube to the nipple and put the other end in a clear bottle (old Coke bottle) partialy filled with clean brake fluid. Keep the end of the hose submerged in that fluid. Crack the nipple open with a wrench. You only need to turn it about a 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Have a helper (two people are required) press the clutch pedal to the floor and HOLD IT THERE. You'll most likely see alot of air bubbles come out of the tubing into the brake fluid into the Coke bottle. Close the nipple. Tell the helper to let the clutch pedal come back up. Re-open the nipple. Press the clutch pedal and watch for bubbles. Close the nipple. Keep repeating the procedure until no more bubbles are present. Make sure to top off the resevoir as needed. DO NOT LET IT RUN DRY or you'll have to start all over. A proper bleeding will be rewarded with better clutch feel and less travel needed to disengage the clutch.

Another note is that if fluid is missing, it leaked out somewhere. The rubber hoses are prime culperate and the master and slave cylinders can leak. If you have the money fix them while you're at it. They aren't too awefully expensive and are easy to replace.

Chris