Now tell me what would the best combination of 13b parts be to build a strong good hp s5 motor TII of course! i want to rebuild my old one but i want to make it as good as they get noe can anyone tell me what the better combinations of 13b parts whether it be from the 13btt or the s4 13bt or what it may be... tell me what the very best combination of parts would be! Inculding apex seals.

 

This mean I can diassemble the motor before I ship it off to you?

Ceramic seals, race rotors, RB type two stationary gears, aluminum side housings...

How much are you looking to spend?

 

no no... this is for the one that it in my car now... as a long term project... I NEED the one you have! and it will be over time so as i get the money...

 

don't really need the ceramic seals, unless your racing without much boost.
89 rear housing.
89-91 TII rotors, and they are light and cheaper than
3rd gens
If you're street porting then go with the TII rotor housings.
Aluminum intermediate housings are really not necessary unless you're going for MAXIMUM .
Teflon coated water jacket seals
Viton Oil control rings
See if you can get away with using the intake manifold from a 3rd gen as it flows more. Will need canble too though. or Extrude hone the stock one.
93 gears
This is my engine more or less. I've talked to several engine builders and this is the route they recommended.

 

dam i can't spell today.

 

FD3S corner seal springs, definitely - other will argue FD3S side seals/springs, corner seals, apex seals, etc., but I find them not adding to performance.

If you're going to mess with bearings, the FD3S runs deeper rotor bearings and a "better" 9-window (rear) stationary gear bearing.

The FD3S runs "better" Torrington bearings up in the front housing, but performance is debateable.



-Ted

 

so here is what i was thinking
TII rotor housings
Fd intermediate housing
Fd rotors
fd gears
and the stock mazda 3piece 2mm seals
and stock seals all arround they seem to be the most reliable and withstand nicely to a variety of boost... how does this sound?

 

I think you are going to need the FC intermediate housing to mount the engine in the car...

I guess how you build your hybrid depends on what you want from your engine. I went w/

89+ FC "block"
87-88 low compression rotors
3mm seals
large street port
FD front + rear bearings
higher oil pressure, ported oil pump, oil loop line, -10 AN oil lines w/ relocated outlet, oil pan baffle
89+ FC LIM
93+ FD UIM, TB

in addition to Rob's usual "5 year" warranty spec stuff. I wanted maximum reliability and something less likely to detonate and more likely to survive it.

 

3rd gen intake ports are physically higher up on the housings than the earlier ones. Look at them both together side by side and you'll see it. The 3rd gen runners enter the engine at a downward angle as opposed to the earlier engines straight from the side. Intake manifolds are not interchangable between the 3rd gens and earlier. You would have to build something custom.

 

88 Rotors are the strongest.

 

How about:

- S5 FC Front, Int, and Rear irons (generously ported)
- FD Rotor housings
- S4 FC Rotors lightened by RB
- FD Stationary gears
- All stock S5 seals and springs (except w/ FD corner seal springs)
- 80psi Oil Pressure regulator ( I heard FD's use something like this)
- S5 FC LIM
- FD UIM extrudehone'd

 

Rotarygod: Not really, you just have to modify the LIM. S5 LIM's will bolt up to an FD UIM with a little modification to the mounting flange (drilling); S4 however, will not.

InfiniV: You don't want to used the FD oil pressure regulator (100psi), that much pressure is bad for the bearings in the turbo... or so I've been told.

 

Ok hows this, get your self an Re Cosmo engine with inlet put Fd Staitionary gears ft cover with all the Ft assembly then add an Uprated Oil Reg and fit Ceramic 2mm 2pc seals on race clearanced rotors.

The porting is up to you but a Re cosmo engine has masive Runners and can take some wild porting.

Chris

 

Know THIS; The Cosmo engine can be had... for 3x the cost of a 13BT, and requires different mounts.

Those extra costs arn't worth the small HP difference.

 

Ever see the ports on a 13B-RE out of a Cosmo? Now those are some biggums. Much larger than the ports on a 13B-REW which in turn dwarf the ones from the 13B-T. Shoot while you're at it, get those 9.7:1 lightweight rotors. If you're going through this much effort to piece together an engine I'll assume you'll be using a standalone ECU and be spending a lot of quality time on a dyno tying everything together. With the right tuning the engine will be just fine with the 9.7:1 rotors.

 

9.7: 1 ? Damn that sounds very high, that is what the 89-91 non-turbo's run. I think that is a recipe for a hard to tune and higher temp motor, aka blown motor with anything over 5-6psi. But I dont know everything.

 

I ran the 9.7:1 rotors, and man it was a beast.
I had a problem with detonation, but only because I was leaning out.
I had a STOCK downpipe, (yes STOCK) and big FMIC, as well as a heavily ported wastegate.
Boost would slam on hard and creep up to 13 psi in 4rth if I wasn't carefull.
My new engine has 88 N/A rotors, a little bit lower compression, and I have a walbro and wideband now.
I definately needed a bigger turbo or something with the higher comp rotors.
The best part- With the higher compression, you can run a bigger turbo- it will spool up quicker than with the lowcomp, and provide more power at 10 psi than the stocker will at 13 (maxing it out)
It really livens the engine up- gives you a huge advantage over other TII motors. I will never have low comp TII rotors! All you need is to insure you aren't going to lean out and you'll be laughing!

 

BAM BAM7 nooooo.... your giving away the secrets i spent learning from the honda guys / tuners..... all the high comp piston turbo motors i've been in and drove... the power band starts much earlier and doesnt end to redline..... gives you a big advantage over the other guys when you got full boost a whole 1500 rpms earlier now doesnt it

 

wow THIS was an OLD thread who ressurected this?

 

Yep.. I like a higher comp engine running less boost than a lower comp engine more dependant on a turbo to make power for it!
It's nice when you can make the same power at 8 psi than another TII needs 11-12 to do.
Need to run 91 octane though.

 

it is all the same in the end do the math and you would need just as much fuel with high comp rotors at say 5 psi as you would with low comp rotors at say 8.5psi! so either way you are still using the same amount of fuel, however I do like more torque with the higher comp rotors!

 

hey bambam how did your motor go?

 

Havn't had a chance to tune the new one yet....

What do you mean same amount of fuel?
Octane? Or volume? What? You will definately need the same of each compared to a TII... except the intake charge will be a bit cooler with the higher comp setup since it doesn't need as much boost....
Once you start running mush higher boost (like 10+ psi on the highcomp setup) you may actually need more fuel than the lowcomp setup to ward off detonation...

The higher compression does ultimately limit the peak maximum power you can get out of the engine- I wouldn't go over 10-11 psi without water injection, standalone, and/or race gas, but for a, 8-10 psi engine, but it tottally kicks *** compared to the lower comp. I'm not interested in getting 400 hp anyways.

 

I think, along with the fact that lower compression rotors is better for more boost, is the fact that the low compression rotors are also stronger with more casting in the more important areas.... areas that could fall/collapse under higher boost.