you do know this thread is 11 years old, right?

looking back on it though i really got a good chuckle that someone thought the renesis would be the most reliable engine option..

 

meee twoooo. also can we get some update on those people who claim cermet was the way to go and the engines would still be going today..
well it's today lets here from them?
last logins
300zx 2013
Trueblue707 2008..

 

cermet is the ****!

cermet is ****, because it won't bond to chrome, almost nothing will actually. if they stripped the chrome off perhaps it would be feasable but those companies never bothered to do the real work involved.

 

wait their claim was that they did strip the chrome??

 

hmm, well if they did they didn't do a thorough bonding process or the pure force exerted on the rotor housing surface is just too great for anything besides a solid metal structure to survive.

it's all snake oil anyways, i have pulled out rotors that had coatings on them, i couldn't even tell they were treated until i scrubbed the carbon off the surface. for the irons, nitride lasts 200k miles, what's wrong with that? rotors don't need a special coating, their job is already simple. the rotor housing chrome is the only key, and you can always make the tradeoff for ceramic seals if you want an engine built for longevity, the only downside is those seals are not forgiving to detonation in boosted engines.

what happened to those guys who pushed plating turbos, rotors and everything else? they stopped pushing it once people realized it was all bullshit. a turbo blanket and some $8 flameproof paint will do a better job anyways for a turbo snail and header wrap for tubular manifolds.

 

Things don't like to stick to chrome and chrome doesn't like to stick to anything. The surface prep for chrome plating is some really nasty ****.

 

Remember, the cermet coating process came about due to the reliability of the early housings and the ones today, the drag racing division (rotaries) some of them still use them on their engines and produce excellent power with cermet coating on. Now, racing and street are two completely scenarios so, guess for street application and reliability is not that good!

 

Yeah, glancing through I read that and thought man what we know now. Renesis's didn't even outlast FDs.

 

Since this is back from the dead I'll bite though my thoughts I think break rules since he said 2nd gen parts but oh well. Why live with only 160 crank hp when I think you could have 200whp in a motor that would last just as long.

If no limit on cost then here goes:
New street ported 13B-RE Irons.
New street ported TII rotor housings.
New S5 N/A rotors( this will be a N/A motor)
Ceramic apex seals since no boost.
New stationary gears w/bearings
E shaft from donor 13B-RE used to get the external engine components( intake manifolds, fuel rails, injectors, oil pump, oil press. regulator etc.).
All new rotor parts( all seals on rotors).
Pineapple racing HD water seals? Or would stock be better.
New everything else needed to button it up .
Standalone to run the RE engine in a 2nd gen.
Run 2 stroke oil through the OMP with the Rotary Aviation adapter or just premix it.

You could not port it but I don't think a street port would significantly reduce the lifespan so why not do it.

Even if not the most reliable it should be close and be much more fun than stock.