2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

How to Tint?

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Old 02-25-02 | 10:58 AM
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How to Tint?

I am really looking for or more or likely how to have a tint job done? I kind of am a dope and really don't know how it is done so a little feedback might be a little helpful. Thanks a lot and please share personal experiences as seen fit. Thanks again.
Old 02-25-02 | 12:04 PM
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If you really want to try and attempt this...

#1 rule is to buy the BEST tint you can.&nbsp Quality tints really help when installing.

Tint films are basically a big piece of tape - keep that in mind.

#2 rule is to work in an area that is CLEAN as possible.&nbsp You'll be scratching you head trying to figure out how all that dirt and dust got under the tint film!&nbsp This also means you should work in a still area with little or no wind.

#3 rule - work in a cool area under roof.&nbsp Don't try this in the hot sun!

Once you get all of that down, you'll need a spray bottle, some liquid dish detergent (NOT SOAP!), a bunch of very sharp razor blades (I prefer single safety razors, but I've seen some people use utility knives), and a good squeegee (the squeegee can be bought at the tint place).&nbsp Oh yeah, get lots of towels and rags for clean-up...

Fill the spray bottle with water and add a few drops of liquid dish detergent.&nbsp The detergent cuts down surface tension and allows the water to sheet the glass better.&nbsp This also allows the water to dry very quickly, so keep this in mind!

Tint can be quickly precut but laying the tint on the OUTSIDE of the glass and cut to shape.&nbsp Keep in mind which side of the tint is the adhesive!&nbsp You might end up cutting a mirror image of the proper pattern!&nbsp Here's a hint, to keep the tint film in place before cutting, spray the film (with the backing!) with the spray bottle to help the tint stick to the outside of the glass.

Once you get a rough pattern on the tint, you're ready to stick it onto the inside of the glass.&nbsp Keep the spray bottle close-by as well as the squeegee and razors.&nbsp Spray the inside of the glass liberally.&nbsp Peel the backing off the tint and carefully install the tint on the inside window.&nbsp The water will help you relocated the tint, so don't be worried if it's a little off.&nbsp I like to install the tint from the top down.&nbsp Reposition the tint as appropriate.&nbsp Spray the tint again with the spray bottle.&nbsp Use the squeegee and gently glide over the tint - you're trying to get as much water out from under the tint as possible.&nbsp Once you feel the squeegee sticking a little, just spray more water onto the tint.&nbsp Take your time - this is where people get lazy and don't get all the water out.&nbsp The key to minimizing bubbles is to get as much water out from under the tint as possible with the squeegee.&nbsp After you're done, clean up all the excess water.&nbsp You might need a damp towel (with straight water) to wipe everything down, as the water/detergent mixture gets tacky and leaves a lot of water spots.

The back hatch glass is a little more complicated.&nbsp There's a slight curve to the glass, and I like to use two piece of tint to cover the whole hatch glass.&nbsp Also, it helps to have a hair dryer or heat gun to help with the "long" bubbles that's going to develop.&nbsp Once you get the center part of the tint down, use the heat gun to gently heat the tint film so it softens a bit.&nbsp Immediately squeegee over once you see the tint film ripple - don't wait too long, as the heat causes the water to evaporate very quickly.

Sounds like a big job?&nbsp That's the reason most people pay a shop to do this!

Good luck!



-Ted
Old 02-25-02 | 12:09 PM
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I've done a couple of tint jobs on some cars but it never gets as good as a professional shop can do.
Old 02-25-02 | 12:32 PM
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Ted's descriptions are great, he hit everything right on.

The only thing I could think to add is vacuum the car before tinting. Wash the car before tinting, and wash out the garage or work area with lots of water before tinting, to keep the dust, lint and hairs to a minimum.

Also I am very partial to the solid blade minimum flex teflon squeegees, again as he mentioned often found at tint shops or also some plastic stores.
Old 02-25-02 | 05:32 PM
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the guy that did my car got tint that was made for the rear window. it is only about 4 inches wide and he used multiple sheets to cover the entire window he used the lines made from the rear window defroster to cover the seams it looks amazing but it is very tedious to get the seems right over the defroster lines...
Old 02-25-02 | 05:44 PM
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Get it done professionally so you can get it right the first time. Otherwise you could waste a lot of time. How dark were you going for? Light I can't see through it type tint or just a little darker?
Old 02-25-02 | 07:08 PM
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From: Pentagon City
I am glad I didn't try it myself, getting it done a shop is pain free. That is, if you have the money.
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