2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 03-17-03, 09:51 PM
  #26  
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any engine i dont care what it is makes it peak power at about 180degrees.. and for the cooling system could be the fan clutch that what mine was at least..

and cleanign the fins.. spray it heavily with degreesier and hit it with a hose for best results..
Dave
Old 03-17-03, 09:58 PM
  #27  
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after reading this, i think i'm not going to go with a 50/50 water/coolant setup
sounds like 70/30 is the way to go, plus WW

here's what i'm doing:
-upgraded radiator (koyo)
-switching from 50/50 to 70/30 water/coolant + Redline Water Wetter
-stock fan + shroud

pretty basic stuff but someone mentioned the water pump not working efficiently, get that checked too
Old 06-22-03, 03:17 AM
  #28  
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posted by that guy who thinks he knows everything . j/k haha

Water wetter works fine. In fact, I am convinced that it is the ONLY additive that actually works. You did something wrong and/or stupid.


it really made my car run hotter i dont care what anyone says . i guess u had to see it for your self do what u want its a wast of money. just get a fiero fan .
Old 06-22-03, 03:36 AM
  #29  
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I've kindda been studying water cooling. My computer is cooled by a water evaporator tower, just like a nuclear power plant, yay! The best cooling you’re going to get is water with water wetter, with no radiator fluid, but that will cause corrosion, so you need some. The best results are where the fluid won't freeze and still prevent corrosion. Simply 70:30 for the north and 80:20 for the south.
Old 06-22-03, 03:39 AM
  #30  
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Water wetter lowers the viscosity of water there by increasing the contact with the radiator for more cooling. Pretty simple.
Old 06-22-03, 05:07 AM
  #31  
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what will running all water do?isnt the antifreeze just to keep the coolant from freezing in cold weather?
Old 06-22-03, 05:34 AM
  #32  
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Originally posted by superevil
what will running all water do?isnt the antifreeze just to keep the coolant from freezing in cold weather?
it has lubricating/anti-corrosion properties in it that is badly needed for our mostly aluminum engines. put in only water and watch your engine/cooling system eat itself up from the inside.
Old 06-22-03, 06:37 AM
  #33  
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Originally posted by Mark S
A colder operating thermostat will move LESS HEAT ENERGY from your engine like I said in the first post. It's the temprature differential between the coolant and the outside air that cools a radiator. If my coolant is 1 degree above ambiant air temp, what's the most I can cool the water?
1 degree assuming a perfect transfer of heat. If my coolant is 50 degrees above ambient air temp, I gaurentee you will get more than a 1 degree drop.
I don't know to much about this but I am interested in finding out the logic behind this.

The thermostat just regulates at which temparature the flow of coolent is redirected to the radiator for cooling, a thermo switch, if you have one, makes sure that if the cooling for the radiator is not sufficient (by measuring another temp level) the fan switches on to cool the coolent better.

If I set these temp levels lower that just means that the coolent is send 'to be cooled' at a much earlier time trying to keep that temp level within the engine.

If my coolent temp is only 1 degree above air temp then I do not need to cool it 50 degrees, I only need to cool it 1 degree. And even if at these lower temps the cooling is not sufficient, the engine temp will rise, the coolent temp will rise, eventually it will hit that high temp at which cooling is optimal, and I'm still where I want to be.

The only thing that matters here is that the temp of the thermostat defines how soon cooling beginnes, the sooner it begins the cooler the engine tries to run. Eventually it should be a balance.

That said there is another thing that contradicts here. I am only mildly interested in how much my coolent cools. What I want is the coolent going into my engine to be as cool as can be so my engine can exchange as much heat as possible from my engine so it can be cooled. My coolent can never be cooled to lower then the airtemp going through my radiator.

If the coolent going into my engine is X degrees then the amount of heat it can obsorbe from the engine (and thus transfer away from the engine) is 'boiling point'-X. The lower the temperature of the coolent going into the engine, the more heat it can get from the engine, the cooler my engine will run.

The only question that remains is at what temperature I want my engine to run. That temperature is set by the thermostat. Aslong as the coolent leaving the engine is cooler then my operating temperature, I want my thermostat to be closed and the watter going directly back into the engine, once my engine reaches operating temparature, I want my thermostat to open to get rid of the heat I now have to much. The cooler the radiator makes the coolent, the better the engine can be kept on temperature, the thermostat will make sure that if the coolent gets to cool, and the engine cools down, the minute the engine gets to cold it closes so the engine stays on temp. The hotter the engine gets, the more coolent will go to the radiator to be cooled.

The hotter the coolent going to the radiator is, the more cooling is needed. If this coolent is not very hot, it doesn't need to be cooled much because the engine is not that warm. The hotter it gets the more cooling needs to be done. If what you say is true, the hotter the coolent gets, the better the cooling works, so that is fine. I can't see what the temp of the thermostat has to do with it. It just regulates the temperature you would like your engine to run at.

Things only start to go wrong when the coolent going into your engine is not cool enough to cool your engine properly.

Or am I totally on the wrong track here (sorry I'm just trying to find out if my logic is faulty, I'm also about to change some things to the cooling system of my FC so I wanne make sure I have my facts right)

Last edited by Multiplex; 06-22-03 at 06:42 AM.
Old 06-22-03, 10:34 AM
  #34  
Engine, Not Motor

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The question is easy to answer. You want your engine to run at stock temps.

BTW, PM me about the DeLorean. Are you on the DML?
Old 06-22-03, 10:41 AM
  #35  
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Aaron yeah I am but not actively, to many posts to keep track of for a mailing list. I hope the some day put on a delorean forum like this one but for some reason most DML people don't seem to like forums to much
Old 06-22-03, 10:43 AM
  #36  
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Owh and as for the temp. yeah guess running stock temparature is good. I personally am going to keep the thermostat the way it is. I am planning on building in an e-fan and and I'm trying to figure out what type of thermo switch I need to activate the fan. If my logic is correct then not changing the thermostat should ensure my engine temp does not go down regardless of the thermo switch I use. Only if cooling is not sufficient enough to cool the coolent then I am in trouble but with a good fan that should be a piece of cake (no phun intended namewise)
Old 06-22-03, 10:44 AM
  #37  
Engine, Not Motor

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I am a lurker as well. Been on there since it begain. No DeLorean yet, have to get my RX-7 stuff to a point where I am happy before I go out and buy another project. There is a DeLorean forum, but I don't off hand know where it is. Alot (NOT ALL!) of the DMC people are VERY conservative, and forums might scare them.
Old 06-22-03, 10:51 AM
  #38  
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Yeah DMC houston has a forum running if I am not mistaken but i've not really visited it.

In holland we have a small group of owners who are very active in the owners club and on the assosiated e-group so I never really need the DML for advise. Problem with the DML I've always found that there are so many people there who all think they know whats best and sometimes you see the most misguided answers run by. So I tent to trust our little group of dutch owners a bit more

Its tough to have to cars to work on, esp one that is so costly as a Delorean. Although on your side of the ocean its supposed to be alot better then here. Right now I'm fixing up an RX7 low budget because I don't have the cash left after all the repairs I've done lately on the Delorean.

The Delorean is in almost perfect condition now though, so it shouldn't brake down for awhile (x fingers). Only costly thing left I know of so far is that the interiour should be fixed up.
Old 06-22-03, 10:58 AM
  #39  
Engine, Not Motor

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Never, ever say that a DeLorean/RX-7 will not break down. That is the magic word that means new fuel accumulator/engine.

Around here DeLoreans and parts are not too expensive since all the major vendors are in the US, and we are pretty close. I could just imagine how difficult it must be to get parts overseas for both the RX-7 and the D.

Anyway, I got your PM, and will answer eventually. We shouldn't drag this thread off-topic too much.
Old 06-22-03, 11:20 AM
  #40  
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Its pretty ok with RX7 parts, you need to know you're addresses but we're getting the parts together. There are loads more rx7s here then Deloreans:-)

Delorean parts are ok for now, still alot of things on the market from the original factory and the occasional crashed car bringing in new parts. Also offcourse many many parts can be sourced from Volvo, Renault and Peugeots engine wise. But occasionally we find ourselves looking for ages to get the right things.

Anyways, enough about Deloreans on this thread, we'll take this pm
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