I really would like to know on how to remove the rats nest not only because i heard it is good for the car but I broke one of the soleniods and I dont know where to get a replacement part i just thought i should just get rid of it. If anybody can give me some tips thank you and i'll appreciate it.

 

sorry...i had to...

 

Yeah, search it and you will for sure find information about this... it's been covered many times.

 

i was gonna post that, but i stole that amazing gif from him so i decided to let it go.

 

i read as much as i could on it. nopistons had a better writeup on it if i remember correctly. then i just went out and tore the manifolds off and all vaccuum lines. got new line, and connected what i read and went from the car to the computer. alot of what u read will not make sense until it is all apart.

 

I don't know what year/model car you have but I removed my emissions according to the tech. section on Rotary Resurrection's site.


86-88 N/A Emissions Removal

86-88 Turbo Emissions Removal

98-91 N/A Emissions Removal

89-91 Turbo Emissions Removal

 

thanks everyone I did look it up but this was better.

 

That's a new one on me...

Those solenoids are a dime a dozen. Used on many Mazdas (try a wrecking yard) including all the RX-7s. And since so many people pull the vacuum spider, they are basically free from many RX-7 owners.

If you have to pass emissions, then this is the best way to go. But if you want to remove that stuff, then it is aleady well covered...

 

well Ok i will but it seems like i'm going to get the parts first before anything.

 

Hey guys sorry to revive this thread. I recently bought a s5 vert and did the rats nest delete but now the car doesn't stay on. it cranks and stays on only by giving it gas. couldn't really find any diagrams on it I capped everything off alll I left connected was the vac line to the fuel rail the pressure sensor , and the 5th and 6th port which I tapped into the nipples on the bottom manifold.

 

Hey bud,

the overwhelming majority of the rats nest is there to make your car idle well. You capped off all the air bleeds that portion air into your engine when the throttle is closed. You should put it back.

 

Well rip “page not found” I was really hoping to read lol

 

The 5th and 6th ports don't use vacuum. On S5 the use positive pressure supplied by the air pump through the ACV and controlled by soleniods. S4 similar but the pressure comes from the exhaust. If you removed the air pump you'll have to wire them open and the VDI as well, or add something else to create the pressure I think you would need more than the one Vac line you still have. You should probably put it all back like it was. The factory manual that has the vacuum diagram is still available to download. It's in the FAQ sticky.

 

I think it’s a little too late for that lol. Is there a way to make it work?

 

yea it’s a little late to go back now is there a way to make it work

 

Did you throw it all away? If not you could put it all back. If you threw it away I'm sure there's a way to make it work but you'll have to look in the factory shop manual( FSM) to see what lines you need reconnected to make it work. Your life will be easier if you still have the part underneath the intake that was the core of the rats nest. I will say you don't need the air pump or Air Control Valve to run and idle properly as I removed that years ago but I left my vacuum lines all intact and the car runs fine. Beyond that maybe some one who's done it can chime in.

 

BAC valve is the key to a proper idle. Everything else under the manifold can go…. My Haltech 1500 pulses the BAC valve at idle and for HVAC demand. Works magical. 13.4 AFR and a 900 rpm idle running AC is a happy place for me. I once forgot to plug back in my BAC valve and tried to start the car. Immediately struggled to hold and idle without throttle input..

 

It's worth noting that the air pump and acv do have an idle function on the stock ECU. Something to do with injecting air into the exhaust ports at idle to help stability. I'm assuming this dilutes whatever exhaust isn't expelled with fresh air, and the fueling is metered around that. Also most of my knowledge is S4 related but I believe the following is transferrable. Factory service manuals can be found at Foxed.ca

The BAC is necessary to compensate for varying load on the engine as Relisys notes.

EGR is not necessary (I don't think it's a thing on S5s anyways). However one of the solenoids is for the VDI system and one is for the aux ports, both of which are very important. The air pump also drives these systems, which means you need to keep it or find an alternative way of providing the pressure for them.

The orange solenoid (it's orange on S4s, I assume it's also orange on S5s but not sure) is used to switch the fuel pressure regulator vacuum reference off for 90 seconds after cold start. This is allegedly to assist hot starts, but I have noticed zero difference with / without it.

The other solenoids are for the acv functions, and are necessary to support the acv. Now the acv itself is not strictly necessary, but since you need the air pump you need the acv, and since you need the acv you need these solenoids.

TL;DR: Most of what you needed is important, and you should put it back. If you are set on not putting it back, refer to the FSM to understand what each part does and why, then find a workaround.

 

S5 will idle fine without them. Maybe have a slight dip in RPM every now and then but nothing too noticeable. I didn't have any real idle issues until after my street port when I had to raise it a couple hundred RPM.

The real issues are as you mention the aux ports and VDI. You have to wire them to their high RPM position if you don't find an alternative way to open them. I never really missed them but I adjusted my driving style to compensate by not shifting till 4k or so and staying in 3rd gear around town a lot instead of going to 4th where the lack of bottom end was more apparent. That and the 4.3 rear end helped I'm sure. Also even with the ACV and air pump gone you have to keep all the solenoids Even the two in the ACV have to be kept and tied out of the way or the stock ECU will give you error codes.