How much Premix shoud I use?
#1
Thread Starter
I break Diff mounts
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Avondale, Arizona
How much Premix shoud I use?
I bought some 2 stroke oil from Chcker and an getting ready to start the car up for the first time.
I have the OMP on there but don't have the Mech TB to OMP Rod yet. What ratio do think I shoud use.
Will the OMP work at all? I'm guessing it will inject small amounts with the rod no connected.
I've heard 100:1 for blocked off OMP's and about 400:1 with a functioning one.
So maybe 200:1 or 300:1?
I plan to premix for the first week or two just as a precaution while I verify everything is working.
I have the OMP on there but don't have the Mech TB to OMP Rod yet. What ratio do think I shoud use.
Will the OMP work at all? I'm guessing it will inject small amounts with the rod no connected.
I've heard 100:1 for blocked off OMP's and about 400:1 with a functioning one.
So maybe 200:1 or 300:1?
I plan to premix for the first week or two just as a precaution while I verify everything is working.
#2
i would stick w/ 150:1 ratio to 125:1 ratio just to be on the safe side, anything past idle and the OMP wont be able to inject greater amounts of oil to compensate for the higher engine speed
#5
Thread Starter
I break Diff mounts
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Avondale, Arizona
Your probably right. 125 sounds good to me. The only side effect would be smoking if too much right?
So let's see. I generally fill it up 9-10 gallons so add around 10.25ounces? I suck at math so fix it if I'm wong.
10 gallons = 1280 ounces.
for every 150 ounces of gas use 1 ounce premix.
so 10.25 ounces. Sound right?
So let's see. I generally fill it up 9-10 gallons so add around 10.25ounces? I suck at math so fix it if I'm wong.
10 gallons = 1280 ounces.
for every 150 ounces of gas use 1 ounce premix.
so 10.25 ounces. Sound right?
#7
I wouldn't worry about the smoking too much, Digi7ech- I'm down to an 85:1 ratio (no OMP, of course) with no problems...just make sure the premix has a TCW-3 approval for good dispersion in the fuel
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#8
I have the OMP on there but don't have the Mech TB to OMP Rod yet.
#9
Thread Starter
I break Diff mounts
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From: Avondale, Arizona
I got home tonight to see it sitting in my house,
Thx!
I am still going to run premix though for the first week or two. The OMP on there now came off my car when it was running but I want to just make sure I installed it right before fully relying on it.
Thx!
I am still going to run premix though for the first week or two. The OMP on there now came off my car when it was running but I want to just make sure I installed it right before fully relying on it.
#11
1 ounce per gallon = 128:1 ratio. I'd suggest mixing up a gallon in a can and shake it around, bout 12 ounces to that gallon and dump it in before you fill up.
1/2 ounce per gallon is 256:1
One more thing I might suggest is using sea doo pre-mix, not the gold label (synthetic), it's too expensive, they have a petrolium based pre mix in a blue bottle thats much cheaper.
Reason I say that is because of the low ash content. Water craft and non burning oil don't make the epa happy. The stuff for watercraft burnes really clean and doesn't smoke.
1/2 ounce per gallon is 256:1
One more thing I might suggest is using sea doo pre-mix, not the gold label (synthetic), it's too expensive, they have a petrolium based pre mix in a blue bottle thats much cheaper.
Reason I say that is because of the low ash content. Water craft and non burning oil don't make the epa happy. The stuff for watercraft burnes really clean and doesn't smoke.
#14
When i go to the pump, i fill the tank with 10oz of 2Stroke, and then fill up 10-11gal of gas and then just pour in alittle more oil to compensate, is that ok to do it that way? am i mixing enough? I have the omp on, but im 85% sure its dead... also i use TC-W3 type 2 cycle.
thanks
thanks
#17
Amount of oil needed depends on power level.
Those of you who practice premix prior to disabling MOP are doing it the right way. Get into the habit for a few months prior to removing OMP.
1 ounce per gallon is a simple fail safe for most engines. I would only use less on a stock/mild NA(.5 oz per gallon).
More power requires more oil. Hint: 1.5 oz/gal for 300hp, 2 oz/gal for 400hp........
Stick with a 2-stroke oil that has one or more of these certifications: API TC, ISO GD, JASO FC, NMMA TCW3.
Recycling old 'bottles' of drygas/FI cleaners/UCLs will give you variable bottle amounts for your fillups. This way you can keep your funnel and measuring in the garage and not waste time/fumbling at the gas pump.
Those of you who practice premix prior to disabling MOP are doing it the right way. Get into the habit for a few months prior to removing OMP.
1 ounce per gallon is a simple fail safe for most engines. I would only use less on a stock/mild NA(.5 oz per gallon).
More power requires more oil. Hint: 1.5 oz/gal for 300hp, 2 oz/gal for 400hp........
Stick with a 2-stroke oil that has one or more of these certifications: API TC, ISO GD, JASO FC, NMMA TCW3.
Recycling old 'bottles' of drygas/FI cleaners/UCLs will give you variable bottle amounts for your fillups. This way you can keep your funnel and measuring in the garage and not waste time/fumbling at the gas pump.
#19
Go get a 2 cycle mixing bottle at the boating supply or even Walmart. They carry a bottle w/ markings for ratios up to 100:1 oil-gas. Then it would just mean mutiply gas by 2 to get 200:1, by 3 for 300:1 Etc.
EZ and no guessing.
EZ and no guessing.
#20
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 121
From: Twin Cities, MN
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
Amount of oil needed depends on power level.
Those of you who practice premix prior to disabling MOP are doing it the right way. Get into the habit for a few months prior to removing OMP.
1 ounce per gallon is a simple fail safe for most engines. I would only use less on a stock/mild NA(.5 oz per gallon).
More power requires more oil. Hint: 1.5 oz/gal for 300hp, 2 oz/gal for 400hp........
Stick with a 2-stroke oil that has one or more of these certifications: API TC, ISO GD, JASO FC, NMMA TCW3.
Recycling old 'bottles' of drygas/FI cleaners/UCLs will give you variable bottle amounts for your fillups. This way you can keep your funnel and measuring in the garage and not waste time/fumbling at the gas pump.
Those of you who practice premix prior to disabling MOP are doing it the right way. Get into the habit for a few months prior to removing OMP.
1 ounce per gallon is a simple fail safe for most engines. I would only use less on a stock/mild NA(.5 oz per gallon).
More power requires more oil. Hint: 1.5 oz/gal for 300hp, 2 oz/gal for 400hp........
Stick with a 2-stroke oil that has one or more of these certifications: API TC, ISO GD, JASO FC, NMMA TCW3.
Recycling old 'bottles' of drygas/FI cleaners/UCLs will give you variable bottle amounts for your fillups. This way you can keep your funnel and measuring in the garage and not waste time/fumbling at the gas pump.
How many engines have you ran and disassembled to conclude to those ratios?
#21
None, my engines don't blow up. Not too many reliable 600hp 13b's in this website. How many reliable 600hp dyno runs are here? Plenty of fools blowing up 200-400hp engines on a regular basis here.
I plan on running my 13b forever without a rebuild.
Use whatever ratio you want. I don't care. I gave my personal opinion.
More power needs more oil. More RPM needs more oil. If you want to run it lean, go for it. Hell, I've heard of people not running ANY oil with OMP disabled. I wonder what the life for those motors are.
BTW, an ounce of motor oil has more oil in it then an ounce of TCW3. Most TCW3 oils are ~20% distillates(kerosene) used to keep those engines clean.
And, some 2-stroke oils need to be run at certain ratios to be effective.
Its up to you to research the brand you choose and to determine what the most effective ratio is for your application.
I'd personally lean toward a little rich then a little lean. Better be safe then sorry.
I plan on running my 13b forever without a rebuild.
Use whatever ratio you want. I don't care. I gave my personal opinion.
More power needs more oil. More RPM needs more oil. If you want to run it lean, go for it. Hell, I've heard of people not running ANY oil with OMP disabled. I wonder what the life for those motors are.
BTW, an ounce of motor oil has more oil in it then an ounce of TCW3. Most TCW3 oils are ~20% distillates(kerosene) used to keep those engines clean.
And, some 2-stroke oils need to be run at certain ratios to be effective.
Its up to you to research the brand you choose and to determine what the most effective ratio is for your application.
I'd personally lean toward a little rich then a little lean. Better be safe then sorry.
#24
no need for measurment bottles. Most 2 cycle oil has a view finder in the side. I get it in pints. Mix half the bottle (8 ounces) to a fill up (~15gallons).
More power/rpm requires more FUEL, which in turn brings more OIL!
I made 425whp at KDR. I was mixed 1oz:1gallon, WAY too much smoke when doing hard pulls. Dave recommended 6 oz per fillup. I'm sticking with 8oz's for now.
More power/rpm requires more FUEL, which in turn brings more OIL!
I made 425whp at KDR. I was mixed 1oz:1gallon, WAY too much smoke when doing hard pulls. Dave recommended 6 oz per fillup. I'm sticking with 8oz's for now.
#25
1oz per gallon is a good rule of thumb for any application with no OMP, richer may cause more spark plug fouling issues but it is safer for the motor.
with the OMP in place a good number is .5oz per gallon but it is all personal preference. less oil=more wear.
with the OMP in place a good number is .5oz per gallon but it is all personal preference. less oil=more wear.