how much of a pain is it to premix?
12-06-04, 06:35 AM
#27
Respecognize!
Originally Posted by patman
thanks, dDuB, you have no idea how much **** i get for calling by the correct abbreviation. read the FSM before you laugh at me, damnit!
pat
pat
eh, ill laugh at you anyway.
12-06-04, 06:38 AM
#28
Respecognize!
Originally Posted by patman
what is grammatically incorrect about it? i dont understand...
metering=adjective
oil pump= noun phrase
so metering oil pump would be an oil oump that meters what it pumps...whats the problem?
pat
metering=adjective
oil pump= noun phrase
so metering oil pump would be an oil oump that meters what it pumps...whats the problem?
pat
could be worse. Mazda could have called it the Mazda Metering Rotary Pump for Oil Injection at Idle to Redline Via Crappy Plastic Tubes Which Might Break If You Touch Them Wrong or simply the M.M.R.P.O.I.I.R.V.C.P.T.W.M.B.I.Y.T.T.W.
Even though Pat is right. We all (should) know that MOP and OMP is the same damn thing.
12-06-04, 06:51 AM
#29
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sorry to ruin the omp vs mop argument, but does anyone have a link to a write up on how to block off, bypass or other wise dissable the omp?
12-06-04, 08:37 AM
#30
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Ive been premixing for about 2 weeks now, Just noticed my oil pressure was low, so I decided to start. Is 2-cycle and 2-stroke oil any different? Also, whats a good ratio to premix if my MOP(OMP) is still half *** working and I wan to pass emissions?
12-06-04, 08:47 AM
#31
2 cycle=2stroke.
most people premix somewhere between 50:1 and 100:1. go for 100:1 if you want to pass emissions.... or just fill up without premixing within a mile or so from the emissions place, pass emissions, then mix. wont hurt the car any for that short amount of time, especially if you drive easy.
btw, i kinda like M.O.P.M.W.H.A.T.T.H.E.F.U.C.K.W.A.S.I.T. lol.
i dont really care what ppl call it...just pisses me off lately because i got a lot of flak on another thread for calling it by the right name, and now someone was laughing here too...
no harm done.
PS. oil pressure has nothing to do with the MOP system....
most people premix somewhere between 50:1 and 100:1. go for 100:1 if you want to pass emissions.... or just fill up without premixing within a mile or so from the emissions place, pass emissions, then mix. wont hurt the car any for that short amount of time, especially if you drive easy.
btw, i kinda like M.O.P.M.W.H.A.T.T.H.E.F.U.C.K.W.A.S.I.T. lol.
i dont really care what ppl call it...just pisses me off lately because i got a lot of flak on another thread for calling it by the right name, and now someone was laughing here too...
no harm done.
PS. oil pressure has nothing to do with the MOP system....
12-06-04, 01:48 PM
#33
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I have been pre-mixing for 9 months or so. It is not a problem. I found that the plastic Dr. Pepper bottle work very well. They are 16 OZ bottles, there are some basic marking on the way the bottle is shapped to should you where 14oz is. The way the bottle is tappered you can just take the lid of and set in in the gas fill spot and let it pour. No need for a funnel.
As far as brnd, as long as it is TCW-3 rated it is my understanding that you are good to go.
As far as brnd, as long as it is TCW-3 rated it is my understanding that you are good to go.
12-06-04, 01:51 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by Karack
lol sorry, though the FSM may call it a metering oil pump it is incorrect english so i guess we are laughing at mazda not at you. 
btw, the MOP is not necessarily going to blow your motor if it fails but if you don't recognize that it is failed then it possibly could do damage. i forgot to install the rod for my MOP when i reassembled the engine, i drove the car for a few days without knowing it wasn't even hooked up and i did pull full boost a few times and drove it semi hard but no problems arose, i also found it fitting that i just left it disconnected and ran premix instead.
btw, the MOP is not necessarily going to blow your motor if it fails but if you don't recognize that it is failed then it possibly could do damage. i forgot to install the rod for my MOP when i reassembled the engine, i drove the car for a few days without knowing it wasn't even hooked up and i did pull full boost a few times and drove it semi hard but no problems arose, i also found it fitting that i just left it disconnected and ran premix instead.
BTW, depend on where the actuator positon the car may have been getting a "full amount" of oil, which i think it was which didn't casue me any problems, except that I used liek 1 quart per 300 or 400 miles
12-06-04, 02:48 PM
#36
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I think its been stated over and over. Premixing:
1. Reduces rotor housing wear because that semi-dirty oil is no longer injected into the housings. If you are wondering why this is good, price rotor housings sometime...they aren't cheap.
2. If your OMP (or MOP...whatever you want to call it) fails, you may not know till your engine locks up. Premixing eliminates this risk
3. 2 cycle oil burns cleaner than motor oil and creates less carbon buildup on the rotors.
4. The distribution of oil over the surface of the apex seal is much more even, preventing excessive wear at the ends of the apex seal.
5. Some people like the funny looks they get when dumping oil into the gas tank.
-Joe
1. Reduces rotor housing wear because that semi-dirty oil is no longer injected into the housings. If you are wondering why this is good, price rotor housings sometime...they aren't cheap.
2. If your OMP (or MOP...whatever you want to call it) fails, you may not know till your engine locks up. Premixing eliminates this risk
3. 2 cycle oil burns cleaner than motor oil and creates less carbon buildup on the rotors.
4. The distribution of oil over the surface of the apex seal is much more even, preventing excessive wear at the ends of the apex seal.
5. Some people like the funny looks they get when dumping oil into the gas tank.
-Joe
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