Rpeck

someone look back at my questions & anwser them please. I am considering Nitrous in a emergency (I might get beat) situation ... I am going to have a assload of pure power... but if I got a backup nitrous switch my Ego will never be harmed.

FC3AZ

Well, Rpeck, the only thing I can think of man, is that when you do use nitrous, the motor rev's a ton faster. Which you probably know. Therefore the rotor's are spinning that much faster and getting oiled that much sooner. I could be way off on this, I am just doing my best. Sorry if I didnt help.

kristopher_d

Since S4's have a mechanical OMP, part of the equation must be engine speed. All the TPS can do is regulate how far open the valves are. In fact, since the S4's don't have a full range TPS, I doubt it's part of the equation at all on them. The S5's are a completely different story as far as how the OMP works. Electric pump controlled by the ECU based (in part at least) on throttle position. So which one do you have?

midi

As far as the OMP being throttle position sensitive goes... Say you have a 400hp engine, at WOT it would be being oiled just as much as a 200hp engine running a 200 shot. right? So I dont see how it could be "under oiled" at all, because on the bottle or off the bottle, at the same power level, it should be the same regardless, or am I way off.

Rpeck

Daamn, thx to FC3AZ I just had a 1:15am thought. I have a S4 ...10AE to be exact. If I am pushing over 300HP the OMP assumes I am a stock setup of 180ish HP... I should need more oil in the housings at WOT than a stock setup would need. This has just ruined my nite... there is NO way in hell I am about to mix my gas with oil. I will junk this car I have over $8k in before I will ever pull up to a gas station & mix gas & oil, like I am driving a F-in 2 stroke!

Has anyone thought about this before... there has got to be a aftermarket setup to correct this.

OR! just had another thought! is it RPM based? Do you need a certain amout of oil in the housings per RPM? If thats the case I am all good? right?

But when I think about it ... say .009 Qt's of oil are droped in the housings at WOT on a stock setup, from 750-7,000 RPM. and with a stock setup that takes.. 1.1 seconds. if a modded car takes 0.7 seconds to do the same 750-7,000k run would you not think the same amount, or more oil would be needed. However if you shift, sooner WOT closes sooner, and you are getting less oil. Right? where in theroy you need more oil (more power, more heat)

Someone please tell me whats up with this. I will buy a $2000 oil induction setup before I will EVER sit at a gas station and 2 stroke my F-in car.

Tell me I am all wrong if I am please.

Maybe this is why modded RX's don't seem to last as long.

FC3AZ

I thought it worked like this..............every time the ecc. shaft hits a point, oil injects, no matter what speed, rpm, blah blah blah, it will always inject that certain amount of oil.

kristopher_d

Rpeck, All your TPS does is tell the ECU that you're not idling any more. The S5's have a full range TPS, but ours don't . The faster the engine turns, the more oil the omp pumps 'cause it's mechanically driven off the e-shaft. And power doesn't affect lubrication requirements. The hotter temperatures you may achieve will cause the oil to break down faster, but you should still be ok, just change the oil more often.

boostmotorsport

How is it possible to control a Zex kit on a ser 4 TPS? I was under the impression that the Zex kit was triggered by a TPS reading not a Hobbs switch. If thats the case it would be spraying when you just tickle the pedal, as thats when the ser 4 TPS sends a WOT(5-6ohms) signal.

Sonic

If you had 300hp or 400hp or whatever that means the engine has been built most likely. When you build a motor you modify the oiling system. That's just standard practice when building these motors.....

NOS FC3S

iTrader: (1)

I run NOS 5123 dry kit on my S5. I don't run more than a 75 shot and normally only 50. I know others with the same setup and it works very well! The WOT switch is a must have with these setups. Make sure to test compression before you juice a 13b. Mine has been drinking bottles for about 2 years now problem free.

Ps... Makes for a great V8 Killer

rotard

I admittedly don't know much, just pullin' ideas out my bum:

If oil quantity injected increases directly based on rpm to keep the apex/corner/side seals (areas of friction) lubed up and slippy, then does it matter that much how much overall power the engine's makin'?

What about fuel quantities wrt. nitrous? I have an N/A '86 with intake and exhaust mods, thinkin' 'bout intake manifold porting and maybe nitrous. Using the stock injectors and pumps, how does the engine add the whack more fuel presumably necessary to compensate for all the extra O2 released by N2O (to keep everything stoichiometric and maintain the A/F ratio)? Does to kit directly hook into or indirectly influence engine sensors (O2 sensor or something)? Or does the normally rich A/F mixture present at high rpms keep things knock free and cool?

I should probably just buy a book or something...

Oh, and how many NOS shot HP can my displacement discharge and exhaust without breaking the brockets? Thanks for any help on this final important matter.

speedjunky

iTrader: (1)

I dont want to sound mean but it sounds as if they are right, so instead of spraying go for more boost bigger intercooler something easy.I don't know much but I will help you w/ what ever I can.

Sonic

Yup, I really don't know why people run N20 on turbo cars. Facotry turbo cars. There are plenty of other things I'd rather spend my money on. Bolt on's, FMIC, and turbo upgrade.

I hate N20 anyway....

NOS FC3S

iTrader: (1)

On an N/A 86 you can safely run 35-50 shots. The sensors detect and the ECU compensates the fuel. Thats the short and sweet of it. My best suggestion would be to call NOS tech support and they will give you all the in's and out's. The power increase is significant when using N20 but can be devistating to your motor if not done corectly. Leaning on N20 will cause detonation. If compression is good you should be fine.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Do you mean that you can run 35-50 shots of N20 b4 you start having engine problems, or that you can run a 35-50HP shot of N20?

Sonic

Any piston engine in the world for the most part can take a 50shot.

Rotarys? That I don't know about. I'd imagine an NA rotary could easily take a 50shot. I mean think about how piston motors work vs. rotary?

*this of course is all based on a good running motor w/ proper fuel*

scathcart

Not yet. I just fool around with my car. I'm gonna put another $10K into it at the end of summer, get everything but the new motor done up, and then get some results. I'm hoping for an 11 second time-slip.

Yeah, swap out the tanks. I have 3 bottles (expensive, but what the hell). You can just stop somewhere and get them filled though. It usually costs around $60 for me to have it filled, so $40USD for a 10lb bottle.

I fill them when they are empty. At 50 hp, you'll get ~ 3 mins to 10 lbs. A 100 hp, 90 seconds... get it?

scathcart

Oil housing requirements shouldn't change as you increase horsepower. Why would it? You're not increasing the amount of friction in the combustion chamber...

I run premix, but its not a necessary conversion. Since nitrous should only be fired at WOT, oiling is not an issue.

scathcart

Wet seems safer on a stock FC however. The fuel injectors are already pretty taxed on a RX-7, especially a turbo car. Trying to put more fuel through them often leads to detonation.... hence the general rule of thumb: Don't run more than a 50 shot dry.

I'm not really a fan of ZEX. They're great for your basic nitrous dimwit, but not really tunable. I prefer full-hand nitrous knowledge and a wet set-up. But its a perfects et-up for anything 50 hp and lower.

scathcart

mm-Hmmm....
My argument: First hand knowledge of use with Nitrous oxide in FC's.
Your argument: OMFG.

You should be a lawyer.

Increasing horsepower is increasing horsepower. A properly tuned nitrous set-up is just a horsepower increase. The number of shots the engine will take is equal to the length of time the engine would last making the same amount of horsepower naturally aspirated.

Your mere statement alone invokes a sense that those you assocate yourselves with have no tuning skills with nitrous oxide as they can't count the life of their motor by shots.
I count my engine life in kilometers.

Maybe you should have headed out to Mission Raceway this weekend and actually talked to some people who KNOW how to use nitrous oxide.

Sonic

It'd be pretty sad if you couldn't hit 11 seconds w/ 10grand. I'd think you'd be even faster than that.

HALO

To who ever wants to know. I think someone mentioned this book in anoter reply.

"Sport Compact Nitrous Injection" from S-A Design. Auther is Joe Pettitt.

Hit the book store. It makes for some interesting reading. I am thinking of putting a 50 shot (dry) on my 87 N/A when I get it running. Maybe, Maybe not.

Halo

scathcart

11 seconds with stock turbo, intercooler, ECU, and fuel injectors... I know, its kind of weak, but that's just a goal.

The $10K will go to suspension, brakes, and transmission (6 speed). I'm not putting any money into this motor as a custom 2 intermediate bearing 3-rotor engine is slated.

slidingsky

Wouldnt you rather save an get a forced induction sysetm that you dont have to refill

Node

iTrader: (1)

I think nitrous is kind of gay if you use it on a turbo.

But if it's on an N/A which you have to squeeze for dear life to get power out of and keep the neighbors from killing you for your car being too loud. Then it's alright.

Domestics just use it because they are real speed freaks.