how many MPG will porting lose compared to stock ports
#1
how many MPG will porting lose compared to stock ports
how many MPG will porting lose compared to stock ports?
S5 turbo engine w 750cc/1000cc injectors and 13psi
previously on stock ports, this set up got 15-17 MPG, doing a regular port and re tune the ecu will net what loose ?
please, I would like real world feedback and experience, I know all of you like to front all tough like MPG doesn't matter or I should buy a daily civic hatch.
But truth is I just wanna drive my 7 everywhere cause its ******* awesome and I didn't build a ******* awesome car to sit cause its too expensive to drive when i wanna drive.
S5 turbo engine w 750cc/1000cc injectors and 13psi
previously on stock ports, this set up got 15-17 MPG, doing a regular port and re tune the ecu will net what loose ?
please, I would like real world feedback and experience, I know all of you like to front all tough like MPG doesn't matter or I should buy a daily civic hatch.
But truth is I just wanna drive my 7 everywhere cause its ******* awesome and I didn't build a ******* awesome car to sit cause its too expensive to drive when i wanna drive.
#2
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Ive got monster secondaries and somewhat agressive primarys. Last 200 mile trip I got right arround 26mpg @ 70-75 mph. I have done better but that was what the last tank got, am also missing both my udertrays at the moment. AFR's bounce from 14-16 at cruise. I think the bigger tires are draggin my mpg down, I had stock 16's on it.
Boost Vs Cruise are very different worlds.
Closed loop on the haltech rocks.
Boost Vs Cruise are very different worlds.
Closed loop on the haltech rocks.
#4
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Unless you're talking about some kind of radical porting like bridge, the port will be less of an effect on mileage than the tune.
And here's a hit: anyone with a standalone that isn't getting better mileage than the factory has a poor tune (assuming no bridgeports).
And here's a hit: anyone with a standalone that isn't getting better mileage than the factory has a poor tune (assuming no bridgeports).
#5
Roto Racing Development
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Youd think letting more air in the engine would throw the a/f ratio off but it does little to nothing to its fuel cunsumption. Now if you want to save some ml of gas tune the mix a bit leaner. Of course the cons outway the pros on that subject.
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Its my understanding that mazda injected a bit more fuel to help the cats do a better job by making them burn a bit hotter.
Gotta love things like 6 foot by 3foot energy star tv's and auto manufacturers getting better emissions by making mpg worse. GO GREEN
Gotta love things like 6 foot by 3foot energy star tv's and auto manufacturers getting better emissions by making mpg worse. GO GREEN
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#14
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Sorry, Rephrase, it is my understanding that on the FC's mazda had to run it a bit richer to make the cats work better for emmissions which in turn lowered MPG.
There.
Anyone have a perfect running STOCK FC that they have Cruising AFRs from?
There.
Anyone have a perfect running STOCK FC that they have Cruising AFRs from?
#15
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Originally Posted by Wikipedia
The main drawback of lean burning is that a complex catalytic converter system is required to reduce NOx emissions. Lean burn engines do not work well with modern 3-way catalytic converter—which require a pollutant balance at the exhaust port so they can carry out oxidation and reduction reactions—so most modern engines run at or near the stoichiometric point. Alternatively, ultra-lean ratios can reduce NOx emissions
#16
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some people running standalones do not use closed loop and instead tune for 15+ AFR and crazy advanced timing during cruise which can help mpg. the problem with this is crazy high EGT's.. ive seen pictures of melted exhaust diffusers and blown turbine wheels due to the high EGT's. i just keep it simple and run in closed loop and timing is around 30 deg, 0 split at 3krpm, which keeps pre-turbo EGTs under 1700F. an extra 1-2 mpg is not worth overheating your turbo and exhaust.
the stock intake/exhaust is also pretty restrictive, which can hurt mpg.
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the complex part is that it idle its rich, but the air pump air is being added in so the wideband reads in the 16's and the phase in to closed loop is gradual. so if you're light on the throttle you can actually be cruising up to like 2500 or so out of closed loop, the WB will be reading anywhere from 16 to 14.7, depending on the air pump air.
if you accelerate, and then back off the S4 will richen up, and then stay rich for a few seconds.
the S5's and FD's ive tested were more rigidly mapped into zones, and there were less latencies. the S5 is in closed loop from 1500-3500, unless it sees high throttle openings, it doesn't gradually ease into it like the S4. the S5 is WAY richer @wot than the S4. the S4 and S5 both start @12.2 around 4500, but while the S4 actually gets leaner and stays in the mid 12's, the S5 just linearly goes rich until it hits about 10:1 at redline
so to conclude, the S4 has a couple of small opportunities to use less fuel, but it would (and did!) require a faster ECU to accomplish this. the S5 as delivered should deliver slightly better mileage in a cruising situation
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