2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

How long do you let your rx7 warm up?

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Old 10-02-11 | 06:39 PM
  #26  
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heh, and it's not just 7 owners. the shop owner next door lets his evo warm up for at least 10 freaking minutes before he jumps in and leaves and then he also generally drives like a grandma for the duration of our street a mile down...

then again he builds hondas so i'm sure he has his pockets lined from all the CAI mods and carbon fiber hoods he's installed over the years to convert them into rallymobiles. cept his cam is just loading that bitch up with fuel, doing more harm than good.
Old 10-02-11 | 06:40 PM
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Start..buckle up.make sure my glasses are on my head,put on some ROCK..and go!
Old 10-02-11 | 09:32 PM
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how come people who have removed there emissions cant hold a cold idle? first thing i did to my car was remove the emissions and never had the problem..
Old 10-02-11 | 09:57 PM
  #29  
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when doing a emmision removal, some people also take out the thermowax ont he TB which regulates cold startups.
Old 10-02-11 | 10:12 PM
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Before the 20B conversion started, I'd give my S4 non turbo 10-15 minutes, long enough for it to settle down to a proper 750rpm idle. Sure it might use a bit more gas, but it gives you access to everything the car can do in case some douchebag in a F-250 decides he can't stop for the red light as you're crossing the intersection one block from your house.

And in the winter, that's plenty of time to scrape ice off the windows, snow cleared off and get the interior nice and toasty before heading out.
Old 10-02-11 | 11:31 PM
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Umm... being I got my car this summer haven't had an issue with the cold winter yet or really DD, but I would let the idle settle then I would go
Old 10-03-11 | 07:33 AM
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The only time I ever let my car warm up is on my 83, which I idle a few minutes as the carb just makes for a nightmare when driving cold.

On my 88, it's just the time to do all the pre-drive stuff like seat belt, etc. I shift at ~3400-3500, with gradual throttle.
Old 10-03-11 | 11:12 AM
  #33  
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I just start up, roll down my road (its on a hill) then drive off boosts until the idle drops down to just below 1k rpm. Then wait just a little longer just be sure before work the turbo.
Old 10-03-11 | 12:23 PM
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I normally wait until the pfc reads about high 70s or round 80 to start driving. It's an FD and my weekend ride so I'm in no rush. Just wanna know why is it a bad thing to let the car idle for a little while?
Old 10-03-11 | 12:41 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by 94rxtt
I normally wait until the pfc reads about high 70s or round 80 to start driving. It's an FD and my weekend ride so I'm in no rush. Just wanna know why is it a bad thing to let the car idle for a little while?
besides wasting fuel, you are diluting the oil with fuel, and building up carbon in the engine... its not like idling the car for a minute is bad, but 15 is probably doing more harm than good
Old 10-03-11 | 12:51 PM
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Start her up and go.

keep it off of boost and under 3k 'til she's ready.
Old 10-03-11 | 02:01 PM
  #37  
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2 seconds. I've gotten really good at feathering the throttle during stops, so it doesn't die. It usually takes 4 or 5 minutes of driving to get warmed up and running good.
Old 10-03-11 | 02:11 PM
  #38  
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why do people gut out emissions on the n/a cars still? i thought we have been over it in just about every thread..
Old 10-03-11 | 04:26 PM
  #39  
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86 n/a, no emissions

I let her warm up for about a minute tops, stay out of the secondaries until its at operating temp. I would sit and warm up at home before work but its a lil loud and obnoxious to my neighbors at 3am. Im sure it is, because I have to listen to Honda Civics with exhausts go by my place every night until about midnight or one in the morning but to someone they probably sound badass.
Old 10-03-11 | 05:58 PM
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Probably about 30 seconds - I use that time to throw in a CD, adjust the volume, put on a seatbelt, etc. I may wait a bit longer once I'm supercharged.

However, I keep the car under about 3000-3500 rpm until it's reached normal operating temperature.
Old 10-03-11 | 08:38 PM
  #41  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Karack
why do people gut out emissions on the n/a cars still? i thought we have been over it in just about every thread..
i know! maybe i'm old, but i like it when my car idles....
Old 10-03-11 | 10:38 PM
  #42  
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Because they're idiots, plain and simple.
Old 10-03-11 | 11:31 PM
  #43  
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86 NA emissions removed. Start up give it some gas till she idles on her own which is generally about 3-5 mins depending on how cold and how dirty the spark plugs are.
Old 10-03-11 | 11:35 PM
  #44  
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Or because they don't feel like dealing with vac leaks springing up everywhere lol I tend to start light a cig..turn on music and go otherwise I'd **** of my neighbours cars fairly loud
Old 10-04-11 | 12:00 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Karack
why do people gut out emissions on the n/a cars still? i thought we have been over it in just about every thread..
when i did mine the bacv was still working so it would hold an idle cold.
Old 10-04-11 | 11:24 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Sabora
Or because they don't feel like dealing with vac leaks springing up everywhere lol I tend to start light a cig..turn on music and go otherwise I'd **** of my neighbours cars fairly loud
it's actually pretty difficult to generate vacuum leaks on an n/a setup unless you're trying.
Old 10-04-11 | 02:28 PM
  #47  
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i help it idle for about 1 minute til itll hold it by itself, then keep it under 3k til its warm

i gutted all the emmissions from my S4 NA due to simplicity in my swap, plus my ACV shorted out and caught fire, the EGR diaphram was virtuallly missing and my air pump was in horrid shape. ill be damned if im gonna spend any money on fixing useless emmissions equipment
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