How long do you let your rx7 warm up?
The following users liked this post:
Frogman (04-17-23)
#3
I always used to start and go. Untill I purchased a 2009 Cbr 1000RR motorcycle and realized the importance of warming up. On my honda I wait like 3 min. On the RX-7 i wait untill the cold Idle drops to about 1000 rpm about 5-7 min
I stay under 3k untill thermostat opens. As should anyone. although on hot summer days I just start and go and the car is warmed up when i get 5 houses away then I open her up. Cold weather takes longer.
I stay under 3k untill thermostat opens. As should anyone. although on hot summer days I just start and go and the car is warmed up when i get 5 houses away then I open her up. Cold weather takes longer.
The following users liked this post:
Frogman (06-26-22)
Trending Topics
#9
^^^ this. Idling til warm is probably worse for the motor than idling briefly then driving til warm, except for when it's downright stupid cold. Then you'd better have your winter grade oil in there or you'll be pouring two stroke in the spark plug holes to get it to start. Ask me how I know... although come to think of it I might have indeed had my winter grade in there, but it was -10*F if not lower.
#13
I start it, wait about 20-30 seconds until the idle settles down just a little bit, then I drive away. I keep it under 3k RPM until the temperature gauge starts to register, and under 4k RPM until it hits normal operating temperature. From there I try not to red line it until the oil pressure settles down (usually about 5 minutes at operating temperature) but every once in a while I do break that rule.
I am also a believer that idling an engine until warm is a bad idea, idle it long enough to make sure everything is lubricated and be mindful of the revs until everything is nice and warm.
I am also a believer that idling an engine until warm is a bad idea, idle it long enough to make sure everything is lubricated and be mindful of the revs until everything is nice and warm.
#14
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
The time it takes to get my hand off of the key, adjust the radio volume, release the hand brake, shift into reverse and then let out on the clutch.
Anything more is just a waste of time and fuel. Also likely unnecessary noise pollution, knowing the exhausts that many people put on their RX-7s.
Anything more is just a waste of time and fuel. Also likely unnecessary noise pollution, knowing the exhausts that many people put on their RX-7s.
#15
As long as it takes to hold its own idle, which is usually when the engine hits 110* on the prosport gauge. Did the emissions delete, but left the bacv and that is not working now -_-
#16
The time it takes to get my hand off of the key, adjust the radio volume, release the hand brake, shift into reverse and then let out on the clutch.
Anything more is just a waste of time and fuel. Also likely unnecessary noise pollution, knowing the exhausts that many people put on their RX-7s.
Anything more is just a waste of time and fuel. Also likely unnecessary noise pollution, knowing the exhausts that many people put on their RX-7s.
#20
#21
The time it takes to get my hand off of the key, adjust the radio volume, release the hand brake, shift into reverse and then let out on the clutch.
Anything more is just a waste of time and fuel. Also likely unnecessary noise pollution, knowing the exhausts that many people put on their RX-7s.
Anything more is just a waste of time and fuel. Also likely unnecessary noise pollution, knowing the exhausts that many people put on their RX-7s.
#22
^^^ this. Idling til warm is probably worse for the motor than idling briefly then driving til warm, except for when it's downright stupid cold. Then you'd better have your winter grade oil in there or you'll be pouring two stroke in the spark plug holes to get it to start. Ask me how I know... although come to think of it I might have indeed had my winter grade in there, but it was -10*F if not lower.
there is a difference between driving the car and abusing it when it is cold.
the rotor housings and irons do not seal very well when the engine is cold so the coolant seals take a bit of abuse if you start boosting on a freshly started cold engine. heat expands the parts and seals the internals of the engine naturally.
i generally do not take any longer than about 20 seconds to start driving, but if you truly want the engine to last let it almost fully warm up before you beat the snot out of it.
people who let their cars idle for 10 mins to fully warm up before driving need a clue, that is just overkill and all you are doing is wasting fuel, just like using synthetic oil in the engine and changing it every 2k miles on an original S4 non turbo.... really? save the money and put it towards a nice dinner with a girl or something.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-02-11 at 06:09 PM.
#23
generally i do not wait for the engine to warm up at all and then start driving normally, i do avoid any hard driving till the car has fully warmed up though.
some exceptions might be if the car has removed emissions and will not idle at all when cold then i might wait till it will hold an idle depending on how big of a hurry i am to leave somewhere.
some exceptions might be if the car has removed emissions and will not idle at all when cold then i might wait till it will hold an idle depending on how big of a hurry i am to leave somewhere.
#24
Originally Posted by Karack
really? save the money and put it towards a nice dinner with a girl or something.
Start, tap throttle to kill AWS, buckle up, set the music and go..