my s4 unfloods when i do that

 

as mentioned the loss of compression is the cause for most flooding no-starts...

I prefer the method of pulling the EGI fuse...at least on my N/A....in the TII I have a fuel pump switch setup so that allows for very easy flood correction

 

if you flooded your rx7 by pushing the gas pedal when starting it, there is a way to unflood it while sitting there. Just push in the gas pedal...and hold it there for 5 minutes. 5 actual minutes. listen to your radio or something. then take your foot off the gas, and start the car. if doesn't work the first time, try for 8 minutes. it will work.

 

I bought my 88 vert off a guy who had flooded it. He even took it to the local Mazda dealer when it wouldn't start. They told him it had a bad engine. He parked it in his driveway for two years until I bought it. Hauled it home , put oil in the chambers, new plugs, new battery, and fresh gas. Fired right up!!! I think the tried to do a compression check without putting oil in the chambers.

 

That is very 'lol', great find for you

 

Only S5's cut fuel during WOT cranking, but the same technique works for any engine, rotary or not. By cranking the engine over with the throttle wide open the excess fuel is blown out by the high airflow. Cutting the fuel obviously makes this technique more effective, but it still works unless the engine is heavily flooding. It even tells you to do this in the S4 owners handbook.

 

I also got a flooding problem only when engine is hot, i let the car idle before shutting the ignition off and then when i try to start it up again it wont crank, sucks cus its the first day i bought the car lol, and i really like it. Any ideas?

 

Low compression and/or leaky injectors will cause hot start probelms.

 

A fuel cut switch.

OR, it can be overcome by disconnecting the START signal from the ECU. Pin 3B on a series four. There are problems associated with this method though. If the water temp is generally below fifty/sixty degrees you have to play with the the pedal as you try to start the car. It won't be because it's flooded though, it will be because there isn't ENOUGH fuel.

Any temp over the sixty degree mark will result in a fairly easy start.

One way to overcome this problem (under sixty degrees water temp), is to install a relay at the ECU. The ground for the relay would go to the input wire of the ECU for the water temp switch at the bottom of the radiator. When the water temp in the radiator is above approx 60-65 degrees, the switch inputs a ground to the ECU.

You rig the new relay so that when the relay does NOT have a ground on it, the ECU circuit for pin 3B is normal like a stock car. When the water temp switch in the radiator *makes*, then the new relay pulls in and disables pin 3B.

What disabling pin 3B does, is disable the *START MAP* in the ECU. The *START MAP* injects a predetermined amount of fuel which is determined by....rpm under 500......water thermo temperature........and the start signal on pin 3B.

So lets pretend you engine is a touch low on compression. Well these predetermined amounts of fuel are too rich for your engine so it floods when hot.

If you diable that pin 3B, then when you start the engine, the ECU does not look at those *START MAPS*. Now the fuel injected is dependent on the afm etc for the amount of fuel injected as you start the engine. That amount is very, very, very much less than the *START MAP* in the ECU. So the engine will not flood.

You rig the relay so that it is only energized when the key is put to start AND the radiator water temp is above 60-65 degrees.

So there you are. A relay who's coil is connected to ground thru the radiator water temp switch..........the plus side of the coil goes to pin 3B which you pull out of the plug and attach to the relay...........and 3B has a wire spliced to it that goes to a set of contacts in the realay that are NC or normally closed........and the output of that NC set of contacts goes to the socket 3B on the ECU.

Water temp gets over 65 degrees........relay pulls in........contacts pull apart on that set of NC contacts.......ECU now does not see the START signal........car actually starts up.

Water temp under 65.........no ground for the relay which means the 3B circuit is complete.......ECU uses the *START MAP*...........car starts up just fine and dandy.

Something like that.

I, as usual did not proof read a damn thing I wrote and it shows.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=153470

 

as far as flooded car..how long..well I saw the car in early November..it was flooded about two weeks before..I bought it Dec21/05 ..I got to "deflood" it then ..the guy who I got it from had about a half a quart of gas in the oil..It 'Reeked' of gas..

 

Thats how I got my car, wouldnt start so they took it to an import specialty shop. Said bad motor so when I bought it the fuel lines were reversed and a few other stupid things. 2 Hours work = cheap car.

 

I've never heard of a car flooding from doing masta doriftos !

 

last owner of my car mentioned that the N.D. comp fuel pump i have pulls all the fuel lines empty when you turn the car off so it can not food ever. also takes a few seconds to start up due to refiling the lines.

 

Ha, my car is flooded after 1 month and ive been owrking aimlessly for days, i cant get any support from anyone know knows rx7's here in CT so my car is still flooded anyone know anything? any advise i could use some help seriously send me some pms!

 

Once flooded, the car will stay flooded until you unflood it.

Flooding washes the oil film off the housings and part of the unflooding process is to recreate that film by introducing oil into the chambers. This will not happen without effort on your part.

 

Make sure you have spark. Pull a lead sparkplug wire off the plug and hold it near a strut tower stud while someone cranks the engine over. If you see a spark, well you have spark. No spark? Make sure the ENGINE fuse in the interior is good and the EGI fuses in the engine bay are good.

If those are good, you might try this. Get a oil squirt can and put normal motor oil in it. The since your car is a non turbo, look at the front of the dymanic chamber and you'll see three vacuum looking hose one above the other. Pull the LARGE on off and squite oil into the HOSE til full. Reconnect the large hose to the dynamic chamber then try to start the engine.

As the engine spins, the oil in that hose should go to the top of the oil injectors then into the rotors and hopefully lube things up enough to build some compression........and as a by product start the engine. Might work. Never had to do that myself but sounds more efficient than pulling sparkplugs out and squirting oil into the rotors chambers .