How to install Voltage Stabilizer + Grounding???
03-10-09 | 01:25 AM
#1
Thread Starter
BRAP BRAP BRAP
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Columbus,OH!O
How to install Voltage Stabilizer + Grounding???
ive been doing some research and cant seem to find any info on how to install the shiet. all i see when searching the thread is " does this voltage stabilizer work?" etc.
i got this kit for free and i dont care if it does work or not but the question is, how do u install it? i. here are some pics of the kit
i got this kit for free and i dont care if it does work or not but the question is, how do u install it? i. here are some pics of the kit
03-10-09 | 04:25 PM
#4
Engine, Not Motor
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Don't even waste your time with a voltage stabilizer. I could go into the whole explanation as to what is inside them and why they don't do a thing, but just trust me, it's a waste of time and effort.
The same goes for the grounding kit. Waste of time and money. See the details on grounding at http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm
The same goes for the grounding kit. Waste of time and money. See the details on grounding at http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm
03-11-09 | 11:10 PM
#7
Passing life by
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,028
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From: Scotland, USA
stabilizer = Fail
Grounding everything, ok true the factory grounds worked when the car was new and theoretically if cleaned properly all things should be good. However real world testing has proven to me somewhat otherwise. After cleaning and addressing and still having hesitation issues in various cars adding a good grounding setup did in fact clear the cars up. I believe it to be because of the age the wires further into the connection up up the wire become oxidized and pore conductuity of electric. By all means please address all of the factory grounds first.
Grounding everything, ok true the factory grounds worked when the car was new and theoretically if cleaned properly all things should be good. However real world testing has proven to me somewhat otherwise. After cleaning and addressing and still having hesitation issues in various cars adding a good grounding setup did in fact clear the cars up. I believe it to be because of the age the wires further into the connection up up the wire become oxidized and pore conductuity of electric. By all means please address all of the factory grounds first.
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03-11-09 | 11:20 PM
#8
Make sure you get the whole thing and the grounding kit
then you want to make sure you put that in here
serious man those are a waste of money *i know u said u got it free*.. ironic cuz yesterday i called my friend and he was telling me hes going to super autobacs to buy a voltage stabilizer cuz its on sale to go with his grounding kit.. i laughed at him.. Just make sure your engine and battery grounds are good and you got a good alternator.
You should open it up and see if theres actually anything inside lol.. i remember people saying there aint crap inside em.
Its like people who believe in the necessity of turbo timers thinking they are cool and needing their car to idle for a few minutes.. just chill in your car for a minute or so...
What i did to my old car, was make my own grounding setup, with just stereo amp wires from the negative battery terminal, to points on the chassis and engine block.. but made no difference what so ever...
then you want to make sure you put that in here
serious man those are a waste of money *i know u said u got it free*.. ironic cuz yesterday i called my friend and he was telling me hes going to super autobacs to buy a voltage stabilizer cuz its on sale to go with his grounding kit.. i laughed at him.. Just make sure your engine and battery grounds are good and you got a good alternator.
You should open it up and see if theres actually anything inside lol.. i remember people saying there aint crap inside em.
Its like people who believe in the necessity of turbo timers thinking they are cool and needing their car to idle for a few minutes.. just chill in your car for a minute or so...
What i did to my old car, was make my own grounding setup, with just stereo amp wires from the negative battery terminal, to points on the chassis and engine block.. but made no difference what so ever...
03-12-09 | 03:02 PM
#9
Thread Starter
BRAP BRAP BRAP
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 186
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From: Columbus,OH!O
quick question. whats a good ground place for the lights. like whats the exact grounding spot for the lights. my car idles fine but when i turn on the head light the idle go down a lil bit. nothng serous tho. anything suggestion?? and what exact will the ecu do if u have a good ground on it.? what will it improve even if ts just a little improvement? thanks
03-12-09 | 04:11 PM
#10
The Firestarter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 2
From: Seattle, WA
There have been numerous tests about the effectiveness of a voltage stabilizer and grounding kit. In some cars, and certain cars, the energy flow design in these vehicles creates a magnetic field under the engine bay. This field has been known to disrupt the efficiency of the flow of energy and actually steals power from electrical components. This causing the battery to slowly drain from unwanted draw, which equates to several degrees of power loss.
What the voltage stabilizer is suppose to do it be placed after the Positive Terminal from the battery to deliver a constant flow of voltage, acting like a capacitor or amp. This will attempt to address the unwanted power loss as a "band-aid".
Bad contact Grounding in certain cases are the root cause of this magnetic field, along with the obvious inefficiency of the energy circulatory system. A grounding kit is also to be used as a "band-aid" when many or most factory contact grounding spots have been corroded or has not been replaced. By adding more grounds directly to battery negative you promote better circulation.
Some cars who have used these items have claimed to see performance increase, but what they are experiencing isn't an increase in new power but the increased efficiency of the power they already have (or suppose to have).
Like what everyone above has said, these items don't work for every vehicle. But if you find yourself with energy loss. Address all your stock components grounds FIRST, typically if they are properly shielded and contact surface is not corroded you see will proper power without unnecessary electrical draw. Once 100% checked and rechecked your factory grounds there is no need for a grounding kit or voltage stabilizer.
As a side note, if your an ******* who has 1000 speakers 100 subs, 20 amps, above 1400 watts of power running through your car and have series batteries, having a voltage stabilizer and multiple grounding kits might work for you.
What the voltage stabilizer is suppose to do it be placed after the Positive Terminal from the battery to deliver a constant flow of voltage, acting like a capacitor or amp. This will attempt to address the unwanted power loss as a "band-aid".
Bad contact Grounding in certain cases are the root cause of this magnetic field, along with the obvious inefficiency of the energy circulatory system. A grounding kit is also to be used as a "band-aid" when many or most factory contact grounding spots have been corroded or has not been replaced. By adding more grounds directly to battery negative you promote better circulation.
Some cars who have used these items have claimed to see performance increase, but what they are experiencing isn't an increase in new power but the increased efficiency of the power they already have (or suppose to have).
Like what everyone above has said, these items don't work for every vehicle. But if you find yourself with energy loss. Address all your stock components grounds FIRST, typically if they are properly shielded and contact surface is not corroded you see will proper power without unnecessary electrical draw. Once 100% checked and rechecked your factory grounds there is no need for a grounding kit or voltage stabilizer.
As a side note, if your an ******* who has 1000 speakers 100 subs, 20 amps, above 1400 watts of power running through your car and have series batteries, having a voltage stabilizer and multiple grounding kits might work for you.
03-12-09 | 05:08 PM
#11
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
There have been numerous tests about the effectiveness of a voltage stabilizer and grounding kit. In some cars, and certain cars, the energy flow design in these vehicles creates a magnetic field under the engine bay. This field has been known to disrupt the efficiency of the flow of energy and actually steals power from electrical components. This causing the battery to slowly drain from unwanted draw, which equates to several degrees of power loss.
"Energy flow design"?
"Magnetic field under the engine bay"?
"Disrupt the flow of energy and actually steals power from electrical components"?
"Unwanted draw?"
"Several degrees of power loss"?
All complete BS.
What the voltage stabilizer is suppose to do it be placed after the Positive Terminal from the battery to deliver a constant flow of voltage, acting like a capacitor or amp. This will attempt to address the unwanted power loss as a "band-aid".
Bad contact Grounding in certain cases are the root cause of this magnetic field,
along with the obvious inefficiency of the energy circulatory system.
A grounding kit is also to be used as a "band-aid" when many or most factory contact grounding spots have been corroded or has not been replaced.
By adding more grounds directly to battery negative you promote better circulation.
By adding more grounds directly to battery negative you promote better circulation.
Like what everyone above has said, these items don't work for every vehicle. But if you find yourself with energy loss. Address all your stock components grounds FIRST, typically if they are properly shielded and contact surface is not corroded you see will proper power without unnecessary electrical draw. Once 100% checked and rechecked your factory grounds there is no need for a grounding kit or voltage stabilizer.
It is a generic and poor term that makes no sense in this context. But yes, stock components are what needs to be addressed, not magic aftermarket products.
As a side note, if your an ******* who has 1000 speakers 100 subs, 20 amps, above 1400 watts of power running through your car and have series batteries, having a voltage stabilizer and multiple grounding kits might work for you.
Now before you say I don't know what I'm a talking about, search "electronic circuits" in Google and note who's website is the 1st hit.
03-12-09 | 05:29 PM
#12
The Firestarter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 2
From: Seattle, WA
Well your right that most of what i said is gibberish and i didn't use to proper words and didn't make to much sense in context, but i think we are both on the right page ultimately because good factory grounds is more than enough to address most of the issues any car has electrically. But I think you understood most of my post even if its incoherent gibberish.
The voltage stabilizer comment was actually taken from a brochure i had from APEXI when they had built their 1st gen voltage stabilizer. It was placed at the positive terminal to promote consistent voltage to the rest of the car. I know the redesigned it and probably sits at the negative side now because they combined it with a grounding system.
Their main focus for that product is reducing internal electrical turbulence.
Do i really care for it? no, i just figured id share some info i gathered. I tried to make it obvious in my previous post i was skeptical about all that. But Aaron is right, most of it is garbage. But thanks for trying to say it nicely Aaron
The voltage stabilizer comment was actually taken from a brochure i had from APEXI when they had built their 1st gen voltage stabilizer. It was placed at the positive terminal to promote consistent voltage to the rest of the car. I know the redesigned it and probably sits at the negative side now because they combined it with a grounding system.
Their main focus for that product is reducing internal electrical turbulence.
Do i really care for it? no, i just figured id share some info i gathered. I tried to make it obvious in my previous post i was skeptical about all that. But Aaron is right, most of it is garbage. But thanks for trying to say it nicely Aaron
03-12-09 | 06:32 PM
#14
The Firestarter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 2
From: Seattle, WA
Hey i pulled that one off their website..lol and they do say "turbulent electrical current"
So don't bash me man, i am just relaying info regardless of how wrong or right it is. That is up to you to take it or leave it.
i said "internal" because i didn't want for people to read it and relate it to the EMF garbage i said in a previous post.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_ele...=224&pageNum=1
So don't bash me man, i am just relaying info regardless of how wrong or right it is. That is up to you to take it or leave it.
i said "internal" because i didn't want for people to read it and relate it to the EMF garbage i said in a previous post.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_ele...=224&pageNum=1
03-12-09 | 07:35 PM
#15
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
It's really too bad that Apex'I is making claims like this that are scientifically dubious and just don't make any sense. I don't think I'll be purchasing another of their products. I don't support companies that market snake oil.
03-12-09 | 08:11 PM
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Onanole, Manitoba Canada
Aaron, I just printed off your article on grounds for the RX7. As soon as I can work on my 88 vert I will be following your advice.
I had a Porsche 944 which caught fire last summer while I was doing 60mph, on a deserted road, thank heavens. My next job on that car was to check all the grounds, biggest cause of all the really irritating stuff was bad grounds. I guess thast is the way it is with these 20+ year old cars
Thank you for all the time you spend helping us rotorary owners, I do appreciate it.
Mike
I had a Porsche 944 which caught fire last summer while I was doing 60mph, on a deserted road, thank heavens. My next job on that car was to check all the grounds, biggest cause of all the really irritating stuff was bad grounds. I guess thast is the way it is with these 20+ year old cars
Thank you for all the time you spend helping us rotorary owners, I do appreciate it.
Mike
03-13-09 | 12:42 AM
#17
Passing life by
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,028
Likes: 2
From: Scotland, USA
Hey i pulled that one off their website..lol and they do say "turbulent electrical current"
So don't bash me man, i am just relaying info regardless of how wrong or right it is. That is up to you to take it or leave it.
i said "internal" because i didn't want for people to read it and relate it to the EMF garbage i said in a previous post.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_ele...=224&pageNum=1
So don't bash me man, i am just relaying info regardless of how wrong or right it is. That is up to you to take it or leave it.
i said "internal" because i didn't want for people to read it and relate it to the EMF garbage i said in a previous post.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_ele...=224&pageNum=1
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