2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Is this how I should hookup my BOV/Boost vac line?

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Old 02-28-09 | 02:27 AM
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From: eureka
Is this how I should hookup my BOV/Boost vac line?

Is this the correct way to hook up my vac lines for my BOV & Boost guage? I've read about these being the best vac line source. Just want to make sure they are correct.
Attached Thumbnails Is this how I should hookup my BOV/Boost vac line?-bovhookup.jpg  
Old 02-28-09 | 03:31 AM
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hook the BOV to any vacuum port. and same for the boost gauge. but the more you split one vacuum, lthe less accurate your gauge will beand the more likely the BOV will not open and could cause surging. so spread them around. theres more than enough vacuum ports on the manifold to go around...
Old 02-28-09 | 07:09 AM
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From: cold
if you have 3 nipples on the back of the UIM, use the bottom one as a vacuum source. The top is for fuel injector air bleeds and the middle is the big one for the OMP vacuum spider.
Old 02-28-09 | 04:18 PM
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From: eureka
Originally Posted by arghx
if you have 3 nipples on the back of the UIM, use the bottom one as a vacuum source. The top is for fuel injector air bleeds and the middle is the big one for the OMP vacuum spider.
I have 4 nipples on the back of the throttle body. My car is an early TII. They are setup in this order.

Top
1 Capped
2 Fuel injector air bleed
3 OMP vac. Larger nipple
4 thermowax./Bottom nipple


I wonder if the thermowax is connected wrong? I do have a cold idle issue still I can post a pic when I get home.
Old 03-01-09 | 04:43 AM
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From: eureka
Bottom one for vac? Something wrong in this pic?
Attached Thumbnails Is this how I should hookup my BOV/Boost vac line?-thermowax9.jpg  
Old 03-01-09 | 11:31 AM
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From: cold
the bottom one is vacuum for the mostly useless double throttle system ("water thermo valve" according to FSM). It does NOT affect the mechanical cold start system (thermowax/fast idle cam) which is controlled by coolant flow and several adjuster screws.

I think you should be able to just disconnect the lower vacuum connection completely from the TB and run it to the boost gauge. Or you can run a tee if you want to keep it hooked up (I have done that before).
Old 03-01-09 | 01:15 PM
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May I ask where did you get the first picture?
Old 03-01-09 | 01:41 PM
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I simply T in to the pressure sensor. Is the bottom nipple on the uim really that much better?
Old 03-01-09 | 02:42 PM
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From: eureka
Originally Posted by Travis V
I simply T in to the pressure sensor. Is the bottom nipple on the uim really that much better?
I have read that the BOV will react better from the nipple close to the throttle. I have my boost guage connected to my pressure sensor now. I would like to clean it up and use less vac line.

I think I'm just going to run the boost gauge at the lower nipple and run the BOV on the front nipple. Thanks for the input arghx.

DriftingmyFC I got this picture by searching on how to remove emissions equipment. Here is the original below.
Attached Thumbnails Is this how I should hookup my BOV/Boost vac line?-s4emissionsremoval.jpg  
Old 03-01-09 | 05:05 PM
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From: cold
I had compressor surge problems on my Greddy Type-s when teeing it into the pressure sensor. I imagine the stock BOV does not have that problem. I actually tapped my ACV blockoff plate for a vacuum source for my BOV now. I use the front lower nipple for my GM pressure sensor (standalone), the rear nipple for my mechanical boost gauge, and that nipple on the side of the UIM for my Aeromotive FPR which is mounted on the passenger shock tower.
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