How hard is to rebuild the engine?
10-04-02, 08:52 AM
#26
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Hallo guys-can anybody tell me what seals exactly I need when my cooling water runs uot? It means I´ve got exathaust gas into cooling water by engine´s running. Thanks a lot. ERIK
10-04-02, 11:09 AM
#27
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Birmingham, AL
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I'm about to just replace the oil seals in an engine. That shouldn't be too bad, I don't think, even if I have little experience with it. I'm a smart guy.
10-05-02, 05:53 AM
#28
Lives on the Forum
115k is "middle-aged" for an NA - it'll go up to 200k with good maintenance.  If you're suspect about the condition of the engine, do a quick&dirty compression test...
-Ted
-Ted
10-05-02, 10:34 PM
#29
Rotary Freak
Time to replace
I thought I needed a new engine at 100K, turned out that I just needed to replace the cat converters. Then I thought I needed a new engine at 150K, turned out that I just needed to replace the plugs. Now at 196 (knock wood) it is still running.
The only bad thing I notice is that if I let the car sit for more than 4 days and then start it, I sometimes get a blue/grey smoke fog - hopefully it kills all the spiders in my garage. If I drive it everyday it never smokes.
If I do let it "blow", I will probably not have a good core to return. What is the typical core charge these days?
The only bad thing I notice is that if I let the car sit for more than 4 days and then start it, I sometimes get a blue/grey smoke fog - hopefully it kills all the spiders in my garage. If I drive it everyday it never smokes.
If I do let it "blow", I will probably not have a good core to return. What is the typical core charge these days?
Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 10-05-02 at 10:39 PM.
10-07-02, 03:02 PM
#30
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compression is good
I live in San Jose and go up the hill on the east side of the valley regularly. On the way down, I use engine braking. It slows me down enough where I dont need to use the brakes on the way down. This makes me assume that the compression is good.
I think my problem is related to the ignition. The spark plug wires are the original ones and I think its time to replace them. And that my problem is with the ignition system.
Also, my problem with air in the coolant seems to be the suction of air into the system from the overflow hose. The problem occurs only after the car is run when the coolant is full there is no problem. After shutdown, and the engine is allowed to cool, I start getting low coolant alerts. I think the problem is coming from that hose.
Thanks
AR
I think my problem is related to the ignition. The spark plug wires are the original ones and I think its time to replace them. And that my problem is with the ignition system.
Also, my problem with air in the coolant seems to be the suction of air into the system from the overflow hose. The problem occurs only after the car is run when the coolant is full there is no problem. After shutdown, and the engine is allowed to cool, I start getting low coolant alerts. I think the problem is coming from that hose.
Thanks
AR
10-07-02, 06:18 PM
#31
Rotary Enthusiast
I think its prefectly ok to rebuild prematurely.
The 3 failed N/A engines I have seen were NOT useable because carbon buildup where the oil is injected scarred the rotor housings.
Alot of failures occour because the rotor housings get scarred by carbon or eating a seal.
It's not a bad idea to rebuild before your housings get ruined.
The 3 failed N/A engines I have seen were NOT useable because carbon buildup where the oil is injected scarred the rotor housings.
Alot of failures occour because the rotor housings get scarred by carbon or eating a seal.
It's not a bad idea to rebuild before your housings get ruined.
