How to Fix the clock
02-17-02, 11:39 PM
#1
Rotor Head
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How to Fix the clock
I have heard that the electronic clock has given up the ghost on many peoples cars. And i have heard it's an easy fix. Anyone want to help me fix the idiot light cluster? i have taken it out, and own alot of tools. So please lep me out!
02-18-02, 12:46 AM
#3
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
It's not the clock itself, the clock is just part of the whole idiot board.
Generally the problem is either a blown fuse or cold solder joints. Both easily fixed.
To fix the colder solder joints first search, there is only about 10 or 20 threads on bad solder joints.
But if you are unable to search (for whatever reason) you need to remove the trim panel (pulling back towards the rear and up at the same time), to access the two phillips screws.
Remove the screws, unplug the idiot light assembly, remove the three screws across the back (noting the longest screw fits in the middle). Remove the rear access panel, and carefully pull out the circuit board making sure not to break or damage the thick circa 198x ribbon cables.
Where each and every terminal (where the plug was plugged in) is soldered in, carefully remove the old Mazda solder (without burning the circuit board) by heating it with a low wattage soldering iron, and then using either a solder sucker ($10 most electronics stores like radio shack) or solder braid. This is important, as just re-flowing the solder is only a half *** fix and worth just that much.
Once the solder has been removed, re-solder all those terminals back onto the board again taking care not to burn the board, and this time also avoid using too much solder and flowing into the neighboring terminals.
Re-assemble and reinstall. You may wish to plug in and test, before screwing it back into the dash and returning the trim panel to its correct location.
Generally the problem is either a blown fuse or cold solder joints. Both easily fixed.
To fix the colder solder joints first search, there is only about 10 or 20 threads on bad solder joints.
But if you are unable to search (for whatever reason) you need to remove the trim panel (pulling back towards the rear and up at the same time), to access the two phillips screws.
Remove the screws, unplug the idiot light assembly, remove the three screws across the back (noting the longest screw fits in the middle). Remove the rear access panel, and carefully pull out the circuit board making sure not to break or damage the thick circa 198x ribbon cables.
Where each and every terminal (where the plug was plugged in) is soldered in, carefully remove the old Mazda solder (without burning the circuit board) by heating it with a low wattage soldering iron, and then using either a solder sucker ($10 most electronics stores like radio shack) or solder braid. This is important, as just re-flowing the solder is only a half *** fix and worth just that much.
Once the solder has been removed, re-solder all those terminals back onto the board again taking care not to burn the board, and this time also avoid using too much solder and flowing into the neighboring terminals.
Re-assemble and reinstall. You may wish to plug in and test, before screwing it back into the dash and returning the trim panel to its correct location.
Last edited by Icemark; 02-18-02 at 12:48 AM.
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